EagleRJO

Does it come with a COA from the Chinese mint where it was made?

I think you made the right call passing on the impared coin as your first purchase and are sure to find one you will be happy with. Since you are a newer collector I would recommend checking out the following thread by one of the vets who posts regularly on this board ... I would recommend focusing on resources on grading and authentication if you are interested in raw coins, but there is a greater risk of overpaying or getting a counterfeit going that route. It seems like you may be interested in British coins, so also consider getting/borrowing a book on those coins and reading up on them before you start buying them. Your local library prob doesn't have many of the referenced books but can likely find copies for you to borrow. And don't be afraid to post any coins you may be considering or questions you may have on this board, no matter how dumb it may seem. That has served me well in general and also related to a complete collection of particular coins I am working on.

Not sure what an MS 5 Rubles coin has to do with the worn 10 Rubles coin the op is asking about, but the NGC price guide for a legit gold 1899 10R coin is $400 melt value below MS, and that coin does have considerable wear. https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/russia-10-roubles-y-64-1898-common-date-cuid-1086447-duid-1525510 You can measure the coin and determine the SG to verify it's gold, or take it to a local dealer who may be able to determine that for you. Expect a dealer to offer a little less than melt value (weight x spot price) as they make their money by then selling it for a little more than melt (the price spread).

Some consider coins like that damaged, similar to chop marks but without the history and intrigue associated with the purpose which draws collectors like myself to look for certain coins with those marks. I think you would have to find a collector who knows the meaning of that mark for there to be any value other than just being a novelty item. And no, don't clean it. 😉

Offf, talk about dropping a lot of coins to get some coins. Those get very expensive, so I can see why he decided to start the collection with 1955. And even that year and 1956 is a little expensive. And didn't proof sets issued by the mint start in 1936?

@pigeonman333rdThat may be a variety of the 1857 Flying Eagle Cent that has a 25C reverse die clash (Flying Eagle Cents (1856-1858) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). The clash doesn't look well defined like it was copied, although that may just be the blurry pics. I would start a new thread with better pics of that if you want more feedback.

Def worth getting out the CZ so that they will have to pry that counterfeit 5C from your cold dead hands. [not]

Congrats on finishing your collection Bill. Some of the sets have like 10 to almost 20 coins for the year, which can add up quick in terms of storage. I think you were going a little nuts trying to find some of the larger sets for a reasonable price from the later 2010s and I'm glad you nailed those down. Just curious if you live in an area with very high humidity where you think storing the coins in ogp within the boxes with desiccant packs will not "cut it", off-gasing (of VKurtB 😜) aside.

You may be right that grime, wear and a hit to the coin just make it appear to be misshapen and off. Thanks.

I agree the hunt is a good part of the enjoyment of collecting. I am down to plugging holes with about a dozen missing coins for a complete set I am working on, and it is very satisfying when you finally find one you are searching for at a reasonable price and are able to get it. From what JP has posted I am guessing he found that 1939-S Rev of 40 5C for a good price. Good luck with your hunt for that elusive one!

That one doesn't have the "FS" modifier which I think JP and@Lem Eare referring to, and I think Lem may be looking for a higher grade, but you never know.

@pigeonman333rdRight off the bat the date on that 1893-S Morgan is off as noted by messydesk and Sandon compared to the date on a genuine 1893-S coin attached (there was only one obverse die used for the two legit VAMs), so there is no reason to post better pics or dig into die markers. The numbers are misshapen, not aligned the same and more importantly the date is too close to the neckline of the portrait. Note that on the legit coin below the left side base of the "1" lines up with the right side of denticle #3 from the neckline point, but the coin you posted lines up with the left side of denticle #3. It is referred to as a "Near Date" counterfeit which you can see at the following link if you scroll down a bit to that heading ... www.vamworld.com/wiki/1893-S_Fake_Gallery. Hopefully you can get a refund from wherever you purchased the coin as not being what it was represented to be.

That prolly is one of JP's "happy coins". 😉

Maybe a copper or brass alloy can?

مثيرة للاهتمام كيف يمكنك قراءة الأشياء مع ترجمة جوجل إذا كنت تترجم إلى اللغة الإنجليزية قبل النشر ، فستحصل على المزيد من الردود على الأسئلة

I just read an article about a couple in England that found 264 rare gold coins from the 17th to 18th century in a can under their kitchen floor while doing a renovation. It is believed to have been owned by the Fernley-Maisters family who were traders and recently sold at a Spink & Son auction for $842,330. Wow! I called a contractor this afternoon to start my kitchen renovation on Monday!

Sweet! There are a bunch of nice nickels, and that really is a massive registry set with almost 300 coin slots. Looks like you are about halfway there from skimming through the pages. Also, looks like @Lem E is a little ahead on that set. 😜

You have some nice nickels JP. You have posted quite a few slabbed ones since I have been here, so I assume you are assembling a comprehensive registry set. Care to share the link to that so I can take a peek.

Keep in mind he has a mix of graded and raw coins, so he would need to create a custom registry set which is not as automated or user friendly. I ran into that when I started a custom registry set for my complete Morgan collection which is almost all raw coins. I ended up switching to a spreadsheet and have created similar ones for coins I already had or have since added which are almost all raw also.

Some nice Morgans! Have you been logging the coins from the hoard in a spreadsheet or sortable list as you are going through them? I can't imagine sitting down and trying to do that all at once with so many coins.

Are you okay QA? You have been posting a rooster talking to you lately, so I'm VERY worried.

I agree generally, although I have considered slightly impaired coins at an appropriate discount (e.g. down one grade or 2/3 value) for less common ones with a complete set I am working on to plug some holes. @Matthew221do you really want your first purchased coin to be an impaired one?

Watch out, QA is bored again and digging through old threads ... think I will go check out some Roosters and come back after the dust clears [duck[. 😜

Yea, I really need to pick up a hobby like maybe coin collecting other than from rolls or pocket change to occupy some of my free time, and which would be a good fit with my background which includes sorting through glass milk jugs of circulated coins with my grandfather as a kid as well as a long and ongoing career in engineering and scientific forensics.

I was wondering about the same thing as it's pretty easy to do with an accurate scale and a few basics, combined with taking accurate measurements of coins. However, this can be time consuming for many coins and it seems like the op is looking for a way to quickly go through many coins to look for blank errors. Why not just go to the dealer in your area who has the equipment in the back? Do you really need to see the results to the point of trying to come up with your own evaluation methods?