EagleRJO

Unfortunately, the Mets go cheap on everything, except what they charge for hot dogs and beer at their stadium. About prices for Saints, when is PCGS going to realize that common date Saints are not selling at over $2,500 for sliders or BU grades, or over $3,000 for an MS63, and that bullion has dropped about $400/oz since earlier this year? They adjusted their prices significantly upwards with lightning-fast knee-jerk like reactions when there was a serious price spike earlier this year and have been stuck there ever since (and not just for Saints). Are they afraid that if they now accept reality and lower prices it will look like egg on their face because NGC did not follow the knee-jerk leader? I don't even bother looking at their price guides anymore because they have become meaningless.

Unless someone physically drops it of were NGC is going to grade it and then picks it up there a delivery service will be involved. The only difference is where that package is delivered, and if it's USPS you are lucky if it's within a one block radius.

Need prior authorization from the financial manager?

@LISA BI am a little confused by what you are saying FedEx charges $22 for, so the OP may be too. I have never been charged for requesting a package be held for a pick-up, so I assume it relates to a returned package. Just an FYI that in addition to the option of picking up the package at a FedEx location (there should be instructions on the slip they usually leave), you can also download the "FedEx Delivery Manager" on your phone or computer and request the package be held at a certain location for pick-up or digitally sign for a package which will then be left at your mailbox, but I wouldn't digitally sign for higher value packages because it could be a nightmare if a porch-pirate grabs the package.

It may be tough getting a recommendation for a given location unless someone just happens to be in that area. Have you checked the dealer listings on industry association websites like for ANA (ANA Coin Dealer Directory) and PNG (Find A PNG Dealer). Thats how I found a great local dealer I am working with now on some less common coins I am looking for.

I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the dealer as I have a feeling that @schism may have just misheard what they were being told being convinced the coin had errors worth something. I have gone down that rabbit hole in the past roll hunting quarters. Let's see what they say now that some good info and descriptions have been provided.

I agree they really are just common novelty items, and Billy Mays would be proud of what they are selling for. @dnico1988x were you looking to just get more info on a coin you have? If you saw the posted coin and wanted to know where to get one see RWB's comments above.

Try Merrick or JD Bullion, but idk if they have older ones like you posted or what that would be valued at. Prolly not more than what a more modern 24k gold plated one would go for at around $12. I came across something similar a while ago buying bullion coins, and some scam artists were trying to pass them off as solid gold (like an eBay or Etsy listing). There is also at least one site that even recently claims to be "selling" gold coins like Saints and half eagles at under spot prices. All images ripped off from the Apmex site which I recognized. If it sounds too good to be true ... buyer beware!

Idk if its toned, it may be a novelty plated half dollar by one of the private mints (Bradford, Merrick, etc.) where you might see an infomercial selling them. See the attached which is a more recent example. Can be thinly plated with gold or other metals.

Looks like they are actually following delivery instructions for a signature delivery (or you can pick it up at the local distribution center which I have done if I will not be home). USPS just tosses my signature required deliveries on a neighbor's porch (apparently within 2 or 3 houses is okey-dokey by them) and then just enters that the package was signed for. Who signed for it, Donald Duck? Complaints have resulted in the delivery radius increasing to 3 to 4 houses. Any more complaints and I have a feeling they will get delivered to a different zip code. Then just recently USPS lost a package of 6 really nice and expensive coins in transit. It's insured, but it took me a really long time to find those coins which can't just be easily replaced, so I have to start all over. If USPS eventually finds the package SOP is to toss the package. I have heard similar stories of botched deliveries and lost in transit packages with USPS from others, so count your blessings that FedEx is handling your package and actually following the delivery instructions.

Collar or collar die, but it doesn't press on one side of the coin. It's like a donut which the blank presses up against all around the inside of the donut when a coin is struck. The US Mint has some good info and vids on how they make coins here ... Production Process | U.S. Mint (usmint.gov) Idk about that, since why would a dealer be punking a potential customer who will eventually find out the real deal with a coin. Wanting to be right is just human nature and the OP may have just misheard what they wanted to hear, but I guess it's possible the dealer has no idea what they are talking about.

If you are on the hunt for a 1982-D copper small date (even though the odds of finding one are astronomical, maybe zero) see the attached which may help in your future endeavors to go along with the descriptions by Sandon.

Right side of the obv does look like coin wrapper marks as Coinbuf noted, and the left side looks like vertical hits on the raised rim. The raised rim is there to protect the rest of the coin from wear and hits like the ones that coin appears to have taken. The heavier hit has a bulge on the obv at 8 o'clock with a matching indentation on the rev rim at 10 o'clock. I don't see any die cracks which are raised as Hoop noted, and even if present are considered part of the minting process as dies get damaged or polished and are not errors. Also looks like someone may have tried to clean up or polish the coin as there are random small marks all over the obv and rev, but maybe that is just really bad pics.

I don't know how we survived without GFCI outlets, mandatory sealbelts, bike helmets, etc. 😜

Me too, with my favorites being anything that involved Mg or HCl. My son recently took a university level chemistry class and for all the good ones they hand out data. Too dangerous to actually do the interesting ones. Smh.

Sounds like you had some interesting chemistry lab sessions back in the college days.

I can't see any date. They do note that you can make out the date with a loupe, but who knows what it looked like before. I saw a vid about restoring dates on a bunch of old nickels where the guy was using a microscope before and after applying Nic-a-date restorer, and there was always some indication of a date present which just wasn't very visible in order for anything to work. For the ones severely worn it did nothing. So, I am still a little skeptical about a date that is completely worn off. Sound like something Billy Mays would sell you in an infomercial. And if you order within the next 15 minutes, they will include Nic-A-Rag FREE.

Even the bigger more recent sets with all the quarter and dollar coins? I have to swing by the thrift stores around you to do some set shopping.

Also, a few have mentioned specialists which I have seen for world coins or ancients, but is anyone aware of specialists with Morgans? I am having trouble filling some holes in my collection at a reasonable price. It may just take time and patience, but options are always good.

That seems so counter intuitive. You would think something just not readily visible was still there to reveal a worn off date or mark.

Try here for some errors with those quarters ... https://markedmoney.tech/2020-marsh-billings-rockefeller-national-park-quarter/ Keep in mind that even if you find errors they typically are not worth much. I realized that a while ago pocket change and roll hunting with quarters. I have a soft sorting mat for quarters with most of the more valuable errors and dates/marks right on it. There is also a good site for coin errors here .. . https://www.error-ref.com/ ... and a commonly referenced price guide book attached for errors if that is something you enjoy looking for.

Gotta like that comment! Almost all of what I buy is raw also, because I collect coins not labels. It does limit my options somewhat because I have to be very careful without decades of experience to rely on. I don't feel comfortable yet just walking into a random show, auction or shop to look at some raw coins quickly to pick some to buy or bid on right then. I am comfortable with one local dealer I trust who handles a lot of raw coins, and he is working on my "want list" you recommended I give him.

Think about that claim for a bit. If a date is worn off, how in the world will a few drops of anything, including processed kryptonite remnants, reverse that wear? Now if it's just covered up by dirt and grime it doesn't take super-secret special sauce to see the date. There are a number of threads that talk about the pros and cons of trying to do anything as there isn't a one size fits all solution other than "don't clean your coins".

Too funny Bill. Sounds like me once I got started with the modern dollar coins collecting the complete Presidential and Innovation sets in BU or PF for all years/marks. I think I'm just missing the latest TN coins and the Truman Rev PF which is surprisingly pricey so I am more seriously shopping/bidding that one.

Like night and day, thanks.