EagleRJO

Look for coins in better shape. Even if there was an error it wouldn't command much of a premium at all due to the poor condition.

For the 1893-S Morgan go to the NGC certification verification page here ... https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/ ... which will have a guide price. It's a Details coin, which is less desirable and not accounted for in the guide prices, so knock off about 1/4 to 1/3 the guide price for that. But I would stay away from very low grade or impaired coins with Details grades like that as they dont look as nice and can be difficult to sell resulting in a significant loss. For the 1895 coins go to CoinFacts and VAM World to find examples to get a grade and help authenticate them if you know how to do that. They are more scarce than other issues, but not rare. Critically, both of them look a little off so be very careful with raw coins like that. Then you can go to the NGC pages on Morgan values here ... https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/united-states/dollars/49/ ... to find values and check auction prices. Grading and Authentication of coins is an advanced area of coin collecting so if you are not very familiar with doing that stick with certified slabbed coins. If you are newer to coin collecting why are you targeting such expensive coins?

That quarter is known in numismatics as a "Parking Lot Coin" where it has been damaged from sliding around on asphalt pavement. It's not an error.

I'm sorry to say your coated coin will come back in a body bag as the rare 1943 cent error is solid bronze, not coated. If you want to further discuss your coin please post a new topic instead of hyjacking someone else's topic.

From the following NGC info 21k or 87.5% purity would be correct for that coin if legit. You may need to visit a shop that has an XRF tester. https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/mexico-second-republic-peso-km-410.2-1873-1905-cuid-1118721-duid-1444520 With the damage to the coin, including in the area of the mint mark on the reverse, that would likely knock it down close to melt so it wouldn't be worth submitting.

You must have been looking at ripoff listing or inaccurate information which is all over the internet. Be wary of the source of information, and see the list of links in the pinned topic at the top of this sub-forum for some reasonably reliable information.

The specified weight for that nickel is 5.00g +/- 0.19g so it should weigh between 4.81g to 5.19g. If the actual weight was 4.80g it would only be 0.01g below normal tolerance which is very small. With an actual weight of 4.85g it would be within mint tolerances and could be less than the 5.00g spec due to planchet variation, wear, exposure to a corrosive, or some combination of those.

The granular and somewhat mushy appearance suggests exposure to some type of corrosive like an acid, which would also account for the slughtly lower weight. This is just damage and not an error.

There are only 2 minor 1974-D cent DDOs that would not even be attributed by the TPGs and a host of them with machine doubling that are hawked on sites like Essy/eBay as being valuable to take advantage of less experienced collectors. Unfortunately, some do fall for those ripoff listings.

Where did you get the FS-101 designation for a 1974-D Cent? I don't see any 1974-D cents with an FS designation, NGC Variety Plus does not list any cents for that year, and Variety Vista only lists two minor DDOs for the 1974-D cent with no FS designation. An FS designation (i.e. FS-XXX) for a variety like a DDO is a "Fivaz-Stanton" number assigned to significant varieties which are listed in the Cherrypickers Guide that have an added value. If you mean it appears to have doubling of the ear lobe as shown in the picture you posted which looks similar to an FS designation from another year it doesn't work that way, and isn't a match with a 1997 1C DDO FS-101 anyway, and would likely just be "worthless" machine doubling discussed in detail at Wexler's site. So you probably got some bad advice.

Attached is the die clash overlay for a 2009 FY Cent to assist with pointing out where you see appropriate clash marks, as I also don't see that.

Street level trash talk that you or I may be more familiar with considering where we are from aside, social media and forums like this have developed zero tolerance policies for stuff like that which I think is a good thing.

I never saw that medal before either, and Bob must have just seen that mint mark before as its not familiar to me either, although the German coins I collect are older. However, I don't think it really makes any difference as the op would probably not be convinced he didn't have a super valuable "gold" coin no matter what was posted, and matters little anyway as we are not likely to hear from YoungMoola after physically threatening JKK.

Yes, meaning we have a listing with a direct match for what the op has.

I think we have a winner.

I think you had it right originally which was described as "off by 0.12 gm", which is a little more than a tenth of a gram. That is still "significant" given the much tighter mint tolerances for such coins. I am curious if you thought given the dealer description that the coin was a contemporary counterfeit by a particular individual which might make it collectible, similar to Henning nickels. Otherwise it would just be a counterfeit only worth melt value if real gold.

I think you meant the 1943 bronze cent. Bronze contained mostly copper (95%), some zinc (5%) and small amounts of tin which is sometimes just referred to as a "copper" cent. A magnet would not stick to a bronze cent. For that year a cent struck on a brass planchet would be a "transitional error" as the cents were suppose to be transitioned to zinc coated steel.

Maybe to help you so you know how to identify these things yourself.

You can banter and criticise all you want, and the mods are pretty hands-off even with stuff like that, but my point you missed was that physically threatening someone on this board is unacceptable and @Administrator should boot you for doing that.

I was going to say "Cats" knowing how fond Roger is of our feline friends. It's just damage. Think about how that could have occured at the mint, and since that's not a realistic possibility it leaves damage as the likely cause.

Just the mushy details with completely intact rims on the posted coin is an indication of a counterfeit coin. Unless you know how to properly authenticate and grade gold coins, which is an advanced area of coin collecting, stick with coins that have already been authenticated and slabbed by a well known TPG like the attached by NGC. It will help save you from possibly being ripped off.

The information on that site is wrong. There is a lot of incorrect or misleading information on the web, so I would stick with the resources and links referenced by Sandon above. And I wouldn't worry to much about mixing up errors and varieties as that is a common mixup newer collectors make as they are similar, with both being mistakes made by the mint. Varieties are simply mistakes made in preparing the dies used to strike coins and affects all the coins produced using those dies.

You are not going to last long here to troll people with comments like that.

JKK was giving you an honest opinion and feedback.

Come on, everyone knows that bags of rolls from eBay/Etsy is where you score all these super rare and valuable coins the op has, and that it's certified if it comes in plastic. What, did you have a brain fart or something.