Lem E

8 minutes ago, Steve Ham said:

 

Well i dont have the coin back yet so i can not take picture but the asterisk is actually behind the grade....example: 1969 D 5C MS 65*.       It's not on the coin, it's on the coin label.  Sorry i did not make that clear. ANY IDEA'S???

That is a good thing. Must be a real looker. Congrats.

I saw somewhere that they used to carry those coins on strings because they didn’t have pockets back then. 

31 minutes ago, Chickenswoup said:

Sorry Grandpa, but that’s just, like, your opinion.

12 hours ago, J P Mashoke said:

This is great everyone is so cool here and to have others with experience checking out these errors I find. I hope you are enjoying this stuff as much as I am. It is not so much the coins are worth anything but the fact that there is something wrong there. LoL ..Through a regular hand held microscope these coins look wonderful. The microscope I use when zooming in real close will find the best looking of coins to have marks that look like the surface of the moon. I like it that way I can see for sure if a coin has FS or FT as for these coins the (nose scratch) was found on 7 different coins not always in the exact same spot and from 2 different years so the mystery is 2 deferent years of multiple die breaks?? or a machine the dispenses the coins and scratches them in the same spot for years on end. ???? So the first coin here is from 1997 and the second is from 1994 the only thing that makes me think it is a die crack is it leaves behind extra metal. I am no expert for sure but it seams logical that a crack in the die would allow the metal to flow up into it then leaving the extra behind after the strike. Look how the metal is on top of the E on the 97 but you can really see it on the outside edge of the 94 . Let me know what you think please. JP

Yes this definitely looks like a common weak spot. Very nice work for you to pick up on that JP. I always thought it would be cool to have enough coins from the same die in hand to see the progression of a die crack. I wonder how long they will still use the die once they see a problem? Anyone?

Welcome to the boards Jim. Nice to meet you. 

21 minutes ago, Quintus Arrius said:

And a valid one at that. I was drawn to the facial bruising and extraterrestrial rim dinging (notably absent from the bottom mugshot but getting progressively worse as you work your way up) that I am obliged to withdraw my wisecrack... In light of Lem E's astute observation and disciplined disclosure, the jury is directed to disregard the remark(s) of the witness [Q.A.] in their entirety.

I could also be very wrong, but feel the obligation to reply when quoted. I do agree with you. There are some rough marks for sure.

9 hours ago, J P Mashoke said:

I am doing some Nickel rolls today and I have some odd finds?? I wanted to ask you all about. What are these scratches from a counting machine or die cracks?? The coins are 4 from 1994 and 3 from 1997  I used to save those 2 years looking for the matt finish Nickels.

Any thoughts . Jeep

To me, some areas look raised and some don’t. I’m not going to sit here and say I have seen every error and die crack or chip on every nickel, but from your photos, regarding the nose to the E line, I am seeing a bit of a pattern. This could be a common weak spot on the obverse die for a crack to form. This is only my opinion. 

I totally agree. Coins.

1 hour ago, ldhall said:

Thanx again for the great advice / information  I am missing 93 and 94 from a complete 70 set but I have purchased some proofs because some early years are very expensive as MS70 but the PR70 are less expensive. I realize this "hybrid" set of MS70, PR70, and different mint locations wouldn't qualify for registry. I just want to complete for personal desire. I have an all MS69 completed  All thoughts, advice or information is greatly appreciated.

The best advice I can give you is don’t get too wrapped up in the label game. There is nothing wrong with a standard brown label. 

18 minutes ago, bsshog40 said:

It looks like the 2nd and 3rd steps are merging to me. 

I agree. If the flat spot under pillar 3 doesn’t get you, the gouge under pillar 2 might.  

35 minutes ago, Tridmn said:

Just actually noticed; why does the "Y" on obverse almost look like an "X"? Trick of the light, out of focus, or just MD

I would say just the light playing tricks on your eyes. I see what you are saying though.

33 minutes ago, Chaz1960 said:

Got it done thank you so much for your help and advice 

Glad it worked out for you. Congrats on your #1 set.

Go to your edit button with the pencil and you will have to put some sort of description for each coin. It can be short or long. Your choice, but there has to be something in there. That will bump you up to a #1 set. 

Welcome to the forum. It will knock you down if you don't have pictures and something in the description for every coin in the set. Try that.

Gorgeous piece.

49 minutes ago, J P Mashoke said:

Hi All, I am new to the forums. I do a lot of roll hunting for errors and FS is always a hard find. I live on the east coast so I have better luck with P mints than D or S mints. Here is a 2020 P that is nice and 2020 D that is toast. Fun fact the post on the right of the door is attached on Philly Coins but floating on the Denver coins.

Thats pretty cool.

This is a pic of a 1939 REVERSE OF 1938 NGC 67-5FS. Sorry for pic quality in advance. (Mainly trying to show step detail)

This is a very interesting read for anyone looking for Full step nickel information. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwif4-LInJHvAhXVZs0KHVvYDNkQFjAAegQIBRAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.biblical-data.org%2FThe_steps_review.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1KlRDk24nrwQaZV9TNb_8L