Lem E

12 minutes ago, trenier said:

~ 2x premium. 
I am a firm believer to attribute variety and errors when they exist. 
I have an eclectic collection, and normally don’t sell my items. 

I agree with the attribution. If it is there then it is there and should be labeled as such. I would assume a real error/variety on the coin is worth more than a label error. I feel if it is your coin that you like, you can invest as much as you want into it, and if it raises the value of the coin, that is just a bonus.

Does the error designation command a significant premium over the standard for this particular coin? I haven’t seen in the thread if this is all being done for higher resale value to sell or if this is just being done to improve the coin for your collection and state fact of possible RPM. 

The roll is already certified by NGC so if it were mine, I would leave it like it is. The coins in that roll are most likely no different from a regular mint tube. Its just been certified. 

As far as the COA, the coin from the mint comes with one but when it is sent in to be graded, they will toss the coa and the mint packaging unless you request and pay a fee to send it back. Most of the time if you buy a slabbed coin from ebay or wherever, u will not get any of that.

You should be good. The registry is free. You only have to pay if you want to submit coins for grading.  

If you put a cert # in and it is already registered to someone else, it will make you wait 72 hrs and they will email the current owner to see if they have sold it or what not. If everything goes ok the # will be transfered to you. That is if you are in the registry.

Have you verified your cert # yet?

I would suggest putting some gloves on.

It is simply a shame how many counterfeit coins are out there. Almost makes you not even want to make an attempt to collect these older coins. I don’t know how many threads I have read where the verdict of the coin is a fake. Just a killer to the hobby.

Its hard to tell (for me) without being able to look at the mintmark from different angles but there are at least 7 different RPMs for the 64D. I would go to variety vista to compare.

I think vinyl gloves are fine myself but that is my opinion. You are just trying to avoid getting the oils from your skin on the coin. I’m sure you have seen coins with fingerprints on them, which is what you are trying to avoid. You also never know what is on a coin and the gloves will help keep that “metal” smell off your fingers. Cotton gloves seem to be what is recommended generally, but it makes the coins very slick. That is where your soft surface comes in. Hold over a towel or something soft, because you WILL drop coins. It’s just going happen if it hasn’t already.

Oh yea and one more tip, do NOT clean your coins. (Yourself I mean.)

Hello, and welcome to the forum. I can see how you could be overwhelmed by the amount of stuff you have. First off let me say, VERY COOL!!! If you were planning to become a collector, you are off to a great start. My first recommendation would be to pick up a RED BOOK which is a book that has information about a variety of coins. This way you can kind of see what you have and what are the good ones and what are the more common coins. Maybe just start with a series that you particularly like and start there rather than try to learn about everything at once. The boards are very cool. Some of those old boards do have certain chemicals that may react with the coins though, so you have to watch out for that. You also have to make sure if you are putting your coins in plastic, that it does not contain pvc which will also react with your coins. Just from what I see, I think what you have is pretty awesome. I would just take my time and try to learn about what you have before making any other decisions as far as selling or what not. It will probably take you some time just to go through and see what you actually have. I hope this helps you out a little bit. There are many more members on this forum with vast amounts of knowledge about all types of coins. Im sure they will jump in as soon as they see this. Good luck with everything.

What is giving you the idea that it is a ddo? I don’t think there is a ddr for this coin.

Hello and welcome to the forum. If you could take pictures of the full coin, front and back, it will let people get a better look at what you have.

4 minutes ago, RWB said:

Glass was never actively considered. The Blue Ridge Glass Co. heard about the plastics experiments and "begged" to be allowed to try.

I’ll bet they would have loved to get that government contract.

9 minutes ago, RWB said:

Neither plastic nor glass could be "struck" with coinage dies. The pieces had to be cast or hot pressed (depending on material) much like buttons or plastic model airplane parts.

As an aside --- because of manufacturing requirements for plastics or glass, none of the pieces could be called "proof" regardless of how shiny the surface. Differences in "grade" are attributable to manufacturing inconsistencies and post-casting handling/treatment.

Thanks for the info. I did see a few images of the glass coins and saw the remaining material on the outside of the coins. Reminded me of some of the ancient stamped coins. Very interesting. May have to dive in a little deeper.

I am wanting to say that I was watching the ANA seminar on counterfeit coins and the question of fake green beans came up and they said that CAC hasn’t run into that problem yet. Looks like that may not be the case anymore. Scary stuff, but I would probably never buy anything from Hungary anyway.

Wow. Not sure I would have wanted to carry around uranium coins. 

13 minutes ago, Hoghead515 said:

I find that stuff very interesting. I seen some pictures of those old glass coins they expiremented with while back. I think they was graded by NGC.  They was very neat. Would love to have one one of these days. They are probably a bit on the expensive side. Don't remember seeing any prices. I think it was Blue Ridge Glass Corp. Who made them. If you get the chance look into it. Its very cool stuff. I believe I'm gonna purchase his book soon.  I'd really like to journey into the subject a little further. 

Looks like there are some examples right here on the NGC website. I guess it wouldn’t be much different than how they do a glass coke bottle. Interesting stuff.

It would be interesting to know how they planned to “strike” or put a design on a glass planchet. Etching maybe. May have to pick up yet another of Roger’s books.

It looks like it was only in Boise and apparently the federal government did not like it and threatened to prosecute the issuers of them. You can buy you one on ebay. I also read where the were thinking of using tempered glass for cents. Crazy. Here is one of those “tokens”.

1 hour ago, JKK said:

I'd be more interested in what looks like a small die crack on obverse at 7:00. Might not be one. In any case. I have a tough time imagining this being worth much more than face.

The mark at 7:00 is part of his jacket in the design. As far as FS designation, I don't think it matters if it is a strike through or not, the steps are still merged. Thats too bad as your steps look pretty good otherwise.