Hoghead515

I have some AU trade dollars that have ZERO luster. They are slate grey and one is nearly black. The OP continues to post inaccurate information in this thread.

It does not look "plated" or "acid-treated" to me.
The simple explanation is that it has metallic paint on it.
Soak the coin in lacquer thinner or other solvent and if it comes off, then we will know.
 
 

Where's Bill Nye The Science Guy when we need to ask why?

Looks like machine doubling to me also which is very common and holds no value.  

Looks like machine doubling to me also which is very common and holds no value.  

Hi Zebo. Yes sorry L4. More images attached. I will contact them thanks. 

More incorrect information from @dprince1138. A coin in MS condition by its definition exhibits NO wear (Referenced from 2018 Redbook, pg. 9, Welcome to Numismatics, Conditions of Coins). This encompasses MS 60-MS 70. At MS 70 and down to MS 60, strike quality and the amount of or lack of distracting marks and small scratches not considered as damage are what determines the numeric Sheldon number assigned. There are coins graded in low to mid MS range that exhibit toning (loss of original luster and change to the surface due to environmental factors) on silver and gold coins and change of coloration on copper coins (as in a change from RD to RB to BN). Any of these descriptive factors on a copper coin are merely the objective color and have nothing to do with the Sheldon 1-70 grading scale assigned to the coin at the time of grading.
I wonder if the mods could delete this entire thread due to it's abhorrent misguiding by the OP...????

I have a very nice AMScope binocular microscope with a built-in digital camera.  It's awesome.  I rarely use it (I mean almost never).  If I cannot see it with my loupe, it doesn't matter.  I would not recommend a microscope, because seeing things at super high magnifications may have you chasing errors that are not there.  In some cases microscopes do more harm than good. 
I do have a very nice Eschenbach (4X+6X) loupe that I love and use everyday.  I would highly recommend buying a nice loupe (5-10X for grading). 

Whatever you do, DO NOT GET A DIGITAL MICROSCOPE that attaches to your computer. Just DON'T. Check Amscope for their low power scopes with a camera tube.

I would not recommend getting a microscope for taking pictures of coins.  I use a scanner and a Samsung Galaxy 9+.  Some other options would be an actual digital camera, Iphones have good cameras.  The fun part is lighting, that will take some effort. 
Below is a couple of previous threads regarding your concern:
 
 
 

I used to enjoy catching catfish.  Long John Silver's is so much less work

This coin was not exposed to any heat of any kind. This statement above is unequivocally false. The coin shows no evidence of being exposed to high temperatures. This coin has been purposely defaced (most likely placed in a vise or hammered on edge) and/or was subjected in some manner to multiple hits, grinds, abrasions etc... post minting. It is barley still even useful as a .25c coin. It has no collector value.    

Right off hand, it appears that it was exposed to its melting point or a press of some kind.  Any dmg post minting does not add any value.
 
Also, welcome to the board, and ignore any bitterness from these old men.

That's a nice site that I will check out more when I have time.  I'm afraid I have no similar site to suggest.  Most of my info comes from books I've acquired over the years and relationships I've built with dealers and fellow collectors. Steve Hayden is running an auction right now with some nice New York store cards. https://www.civilwartokens.com/

That is a nice one I would probably try to acquire since it's from my home state, which is how I collect tokens.  It's likely already been mentioned, but I use TokenCatelog.com to search for info on tokens.  Any other good token sites?
https://tokencatalog.com/token_record_forms.php?action=DisplayTokenRecord&td_id=104215&inventory_id=279083&td_image_id=151332&attribution_id=105091&record_offset=1

Okay, I'll bite since it's Tuesday.  Here is one of my tokens that reminds me of @Hoghead515's beard. 

Where in my statement did I say that just having a registry is a sign of experience? This OP is trying to teach others about grading or having coins graded when it is plainly obvious he has no skills or knowledge of coin grading concepts, parameters or strategies.  

But how much lipstick CAN you put on a pig?

I agree that the coin is likely not the 1936-D 5C 3-1/2 Leg variety.  It looks like the coin is just worn, damaged or altered to have the appearance of part of the bison's right foreleg missing in the area identified with arrows above.
This variety was the result of over-polishing the die to remove erosion lines, and other indicators or affected areas besides right at the arrow do not look like a match to me.  I would do some more research, like looking at the NGC VarietyPlus image, and more carefully examine the coin in-hand before you drop around $100 or so on a submittal.
And what dprince1138 is doing is completely different.  He is not asking about varieties, he is simply flipping raw coins claiming they are particular varieties when he has already misattributed several, and refuses to be open or answer basic questions asked, which as a minimum gives the appearance of shady dealings.  You on the other hand seem to be taking a pretty straightforward approach, and don't have a problem being open or answering questions.

Please be advised @CREDTO51, that poster @dprince1138 has given incorrect information in this and other threads and also does not speak for me. Your cost to submit this coin as a single coin submission would come out to nearly $120 after shipping, grading fees, variety plus fees, and return shipping costs. 
I am also not sure from the photo you provided whether this is a legit 3 legged 1936 D or if this is the end result of a weakly struck Buffalo with a lot of wear. Perhaps a better lit photo would help on here. Being the coin has some heavy damage that you are aware of, I would expect the value of this coin even as a details grade to fall into the G range due to the damage involved. I would take this coin to a local dealer for an in hand analysis and additional opinion. I have included a photo from NGC's VarietyPlus page for your comparison. There should be a faint remnant of the leg without disturbance to the metal in the area. Your coin will be harder to tell as there is damage in that area which also adds degree for further inspection to make sure that damage is not part of an alteration.

I don't know why dprince keeps bumping this thread, or thanking others who bump the thread, as it really doesn't paint him in a good light.  Maybe he hopes to somehow recover from the train wreck, but as Coinbuf aptly pointed out the train is already off the rails.  File this mystery along with Where is Hoffa Buried. 

BAhhahaha! That 1880 seated Lib Dime you posted is damaged and cleaned. You are NOT a coin grading expert. Please stop you look really stupid.  

If you knew how stupid you sound trying to seem educated on coin grading you would be crawling in a dark hole right now and never coming out. PLEASE JUST STOP! YOU SOUND LIKE A MORE ON!

I have 2 simple questions for you @dprince1138 do you even have a registry, registry set or ANY actual graded coins? Also have you ever submitted ANY coin to a TPG service on your own? (Ill answer my own questions since I just asked them to make a point)The answer is: NO