Woods020

I do worry about the US economy, but I just decided a while back to invest 25% in ex us markets. That’s always an option. The Asian markets are a popular choice. Sadly the global market will struggle to survive without the US as well. To me it’s more about maximizing the purchase potential of my money versus hedging against the end of days. 

What you have is a WAM with Die Deterioration.l
Certainly not worth sending in as there is nothing to authenticate

I agree stacking precious metals isn’t the smartest way to hedge against a falling dollar, a lot of people do it. If stacking silver is your goal I would suggest finding silver with the lowest premium over spot. It best meets your need of being an emergency fund and it’s a better buy. Look for bars or generic rounds. Paying the premium for the other stuff defeats them purpose of stacking in my opinion. 

PM me and I will tell you where to send the worthless coins in exchange for SBAs that you can actually spend. 

Good to see you back

@Woods020 How you been? I was all excited about my newly acquired 1864 IHC Cu-Ni, was gonna post it here, and then see you got me beat by a mile with your 1864 Bronze DDO .  Congrats on that one, very nice!  

A new one I just got in. A variety on a variety is always fun. Pics aren’t great I screen shot them from my website on my phone. 

I assume in this context CAM is referring to close AM. It doesn’t appear to the a CAM, the doubling appears to be common mechanical doubling as well as the mint mark. I do agree it looks like a common 92-d. 

Ok thanks Woods. See I learned something new today. That is why it looks like it has a matt finish . Cool 

No, it looks like a matte finish because the op is using a microscope and the scope light is making it look funky.

It’s a shame Ellsworth didn’t win. His collection is amazing. He is a staple at the shows across the south and I seem to get booths with or close to him often. I usually call him butternut because his dealership is called butternut coins. Always telling a good joke, and sometimes they are even fitting for mixed company 😂 

In 76 business strike clads were struck in Philly and Denver. 40% silver business strikes were struck in San Fran. 
 
Then there are the proof sets which you are referencing that were all struck in San Fran but all clad. 
 
The OPs coin is a business strike, not proof, so as bosshog said we know it is 40% because it has the S mint mark. 

In 76 business strike clads were struck in Philly and Denver. 40% silver business strikes were struck in San Fran. 
 
Then there are the proof sets which you are referencing that were all struck in San Fran but all clad. 
 
The OPs coin is a business strike, not proof, so as bosshog said we know it is 40% because it has the S mint mark. 

Well, you may not be connected to NGC, but you all seem to know what you're talking about. It's comforting to know that many of you know what you're talking about. I got tired of dealing with "armchair" quarterbacks in the numismatic world.

Thanks from all !

Pictures are a little too poor to say. Even if it is ms60 as someone marked, it would not be worth grading fees. I'd just keep it as is. 

From a financial standpoint it is not really worth the cost, from the photo I would guess AU58 to MS62 max.    NGC"s price guide shows this coin valued at $54 in AU58, $72 in MS62, worth $45ish just as it is.    I would get an inexpensive holder, say a nice single coin Capital holder or Kointaine; and enjoy the coin as a wonderful remembrance from you aunt.   The money you would spend on grading/encapsulating a very common coin in a very low grade could be used to buy another coin or reference book.

Several of the master hubs for the proof coins of 1936-42 were already somewhat worn and/or damaged by 1936. That's why the proof coins of this period lack the fine details seen on pre-1920 examples of the Lincoln Cent, Buffalo Nickel and Mercury Dime that were coined from fresh dies. This is especially evident on the cent and dime. 1936-42 proofs will never be as bold as are sharp currency pieces from the 1910s.

The closest I ever got to politics was to be appointed to a Governor's CHIP Advisory Council to assist in the healthcare needs of children in the Commonwealth. As a rule, I try to stay as far away from politics as the OPs coins are from $.10 centavos planchet errors.
Edit Note - I feel like I am coming off harsh if you are new.  I am new, too.  But, you came here claiming to have a very rare coin without any real knowledge or research.  If you are new (as I suspect) stick to the fundamentals, know your types and keys, etc.  If you are into errors look at resources like Wexlers.  Know the real deal from study, and then post them online with the die markers and such.  If it is a wrong planchet or overtype, give better descriptions and pictures based in research.  This forum is full of folks who found the "most rare" (but truly just damaged) coins.  A little homework goes a long way, as we tune out the noise.  

It is an S mint, so it is 40%. 

I had that same experience on acid once.

Hey @Woods020, “No step too high fo’ a high steppah”. Am I right?

Hey, maybe the guy’s beat to death corroded 1920 cent “identifies as” some Argentine whatever. It is a new era after all in which facts are what we wish them to be and “pregnant man” emojis are okay. 

None of the members are "tied" to NGC or any other company. A message board like this one is composed of coin collectors with a wide range of experience, and a considerable depth of honesty that you will not find on esty and other garbage "experts" you've listened to.
Mr. Lange is the Research Director at NGC and offers occasional thoughts as appropriate to the situation - usually about a posted variety question.