GBrad

@Jblindy Not a grading expert (or even a novice as of yet) but I enjoy guessing the grades on coins. It helps me learn more and store more knowledge in my feeble mind. Now, my guess..... Being that it has a green been sticker, and I have come under the impression that only higher end coins are usually submitted to CAC, I am going to go out on a limb and say MS66...... I'm sure I am probably way off base here but from my perspective, the toning limits the luster (especially the obverse), but the fields, and especially her face, appear to be very nice with minimal scratches and bag marks that are so prevalent with Morgans. This appears to be a common date and mm but yet with a relatively low mintage compared to other dates so I'm thinking all of this may add up to a higher grade....... Interested to see how wrong I am here.......

I know it's late, and I have had my meds, but is it November already? Where did Halloween go? Going to have to talk to my doctor about this.......

Also…. I meant to add this. I would not recommend Zelle for high priced and valuable items. To my knowledge, once you authorize a Zelle transaction, it is a one way street with no recourse. PayPal I believe has some extra added protection, not sure, but I don’t use it that often. Using other selling methods, outside of reputable and well known auction houses who offer some layers of protection, inevitably brings added layers of risk. Just FYI.

GC, as most everyone here calls it, (short for Great Collections) is a very good place to start IMHO. I don’t think you can go wrong with them at all. As far as satisfying each party, I am assuming you are meaning the buyer and the seller (you) and not the auction company because they are going to get their cut no matter what, usually from both the buyer and the seller. Ultimately, this is a very difficult question to answer as there are A LOT OF VARIABLES INVOLVED but, in my opinion, it is as simple as this- there IS no guarantee. If auctioning a coin, with no reserve, well then… the seller may come up short on their anticipated sale price which wouldn’t settle well, obviously. As a buyer, sometimes there are return policies in effect depending on, once again…., many variables. As long as a buyer is satisfied with their purchase, to me, that is the first and foremost important thing. I would always keep in mind that, in life in general and especially buying and selling coins, you are going to win some and you are going to lose some. Hopefully winning will far outweigh losing. Just my humble input here.

I totally agree with @Coinbuf here. I truly hope you had a major brain fart when typing your listed price which evidently caused an error between your mind, synaptic responses and ultimately your fingers while typing…….. Surely the 1, preceding the 7, was an honest mistake……

Ha!.... Yes, @Greenstang is correct as well. Our comments were posted at the same time. lol.....

Hey @Dejone Maxwell, I agree with @Mohawk that your coin appears to be Red and is a normal 1986 Lincoln. What you are seeing as a "second ring" is called a ridge ring.

Thank you for the pics of your coin Belita. This is a very nice Proof Bicentennial Quarter but it is not worth a major premium nor submitting in my opinion. However, if you want to submit a raw coin that you own, and it is in your budget to have it slabbed even though turning it may not be profitable (please keep in mind all of the costs associated with submissions), then by all means go for it. I don't think there is anything wrong at all with having a worthy coin slabbed as long as you realize the costs involved. However, IMHO and not to disappoint you, I am sure there are numerous coins out there of this type that are already graded and slabbed which you could purchase for less. Just FYI.

Welcome to the forum. Definitely a large date copper 82' D. That's a nice scale you have there as it reads out in hundredths. Not something we see very often with new collectors.

And KUDOS to you for holding your coin properly!!!!!

Sorry to break the bad news to you @Dejone Maxwell, but all 1993 Lincolns have a Close AM......... This is nothing out of the ordinary. Here is a link to Lincolncentresource.com that will explain the numerous different close and wide AM's. http://lincolncentresource.com/wideams.html

J P, you did not make me search anything at all my friend. I have the PCGS apps downloaded on my phone, and my computer, and I use them frequently along with the info provided by NGC. I had just recently read up on the FS designation outlined by PCGS (because I have been looking at a lot Jeffy's lately) and I was able, from memory, to go straight to that page from which I took the screenshot. I like to use all the TPG's websites to further my knowledge as best as I can no matter what the subject at hand may be. I'm just glad I was able to hopefully help out.

Hey J P. PCGS does recognize 5 FS as their qualifier for this designation the same as NGC does. I suppose 6 FS’s are just an added bonus. Here’s a screenshot from one of the PCGS websites. Hope this helps.

I think you probably used them all up in the past here on the forum.

Hello @Belita Lom. Welcome to the forum. If you are going to start collecting, and submitting coins, then you are inevitably going to have to learn how to safely handle your coins. I actually appreciate your comment above about not wanting to damage your coin. We have seen TOO MANY people here on the forum holding and handling coins in a manner which makes me want to puke. I think you will be fine in handling your coins if you take the necessary precautions such as this: Always hold your coins by their edge to alleviate leaving any of your oils or fingerprints on your coin. In addition (I learned the hard way.....don't ask) I would suggest holding your coins over your bed, a pillow, or something very soft whenever removing them from whatever they may be stored in. I don't think I need to elaborate any further on this topic.... ALWAYS store your coins in NON-PVC holders or flips! PVC has a chemical reaction with the metallic nature of coins and will cause damage to them. Use only MYLAR material storage flips or 2x2's for your coins. Hope this little tidbit of info helps.

Now I would love to see that fight in action........ My money is on the Eagle.... (sorry VKurtB)

Gotcha Mike. That actually does answer my question. I see now that the days are limited and that however many coins come in during that time will receive such a label. That makes sense. I'm sure the other TPG's have their same set of criteria. Thanks.

@Hinkle I am going to give my opinion here as to what that incuse line on your coin may be. First of all, being a proof die, I don't believe the mint would ever re-tool or even polish a proof die or else it would not exhibit a DCAM appearance as polishing would induce noticeable scratches even if extremely minuscule. You say the small line is incuse. The relief on the rock lines are raised so I don't believe this would be consistent with another rock line as @124Spider commented, no offense Spider. Back to incuse.... my best plausible explanation is that 1) This is either a very small hit from another coin or object, or 2) It could possibly be a small strike through of sorts from some tiny foreign object. Without seeing very clear and precise close-up photos of this area, these are my two most plausible explanations. Just MHO here.

I have gone back into the NGC archives and read several different posts, chats, threads.... in the past but I have one question in particular as I am still a bit unclear on the First, Early, etc.. label and topics. I am familiar with (I think) NGC doing away with one the these "designations" due to a lot of controversy surrounding this First Strike(s) theory. Being that there are several different reputable TPG's out there, namely ANACS, NGC, PCGS, and ICG.... it is my assumption that each of these TPG's have a maximum designated number of coins allocated, within their respective organization, in which they will apply the labels I mentioned in the Topic of this post. Am I correct in saying this? Thanks.

I have absolutely no idea how we do this Just Bob...... it just kinda happens..... BUT, with ALL due respect to @Cecelia R. Valverde, we appreciate the opportunity to help you out and do our best to explain what is going on with your coins. In the process we sometimes get sidetracked with talking about other coins of interest related to the op's opening post. No offense intended and please join us in the fun.

One other comment here if you don't mind. I really hope @VKurtB's presumption was correct in regards to the SBA planchet theory. Maybe this will get him off my back concerning the price of precious metals....... (totally different post, totally different topic....)

Good luck @kellyt. Looking forward to hear what comes of your coin.

Looks like a worn out die to me that caused the deformation of the mm. Look at all the flow lines present on the fields of the coin. This signifies a worn out die. Plus, there's not any mention of an RPM for this year on VV. Basically die deterioration doubling here.

Hang on a minute. Now that you have produced a slightly better picture, at least with more light, I am a bit curious about the "crack" you are talking about. I do see something going on there up under TRUST. However, without much better, clear and sharp pics..... No one here is going to be able to help you out. Based on these pics, I will go out on a limb and say that I believe I do see a division, and/or crack (not meaning a worthless die crack), in the metal on your coin under TRUST. I will stop here, without further explanation, until you can supply much better close-up, clear and focused pictures of this area. The coin is still riddled with damage but I do see something that has peaked my curiosity.

I personally don't see precious metals going anywhere but up, with fluctuations in-between. I think the days of mid to low teens for silver and less than $1K for gold are well in the past. Just my HO here. I hope I didn't open up a new can of worms.