GBrad

Yes... I meant 1849.... my fingers weren't working properly on the keyboard.

Oh my... I am heartbroken about that 1849-O!!!!!! Still a nice lot to go through though.

Take it to the bank unless you just want to keep it for reference. There are a quadrillion of these same examples out there.

I'm in agreement with all the above. Pics are not good enough to tell anything except for the nice looking heart shape hit on Linc's nose. It's definitely not the desired 1972 DDO FS-101 even with the dark pictures. Even if it was one of the other eight DDO's for this year it wouldn't be worth much due to its condition.

For the record, even though I commented on using Acetone to remove junk or gunk on a copper coin, I also firmly believe that coins should not be cleaned. The only time I have attempted to remove debris from a coin was in the effort to either see the date and/or mm on a coin, or in the event I believed it to be an error or variety and I needed to remove years of gunk and buildup from certain areas just to be able to confirm, or deny, the criteria I just mentioned. Other than that, I too am in the camp of leaving them alone and NOT cleaning them. I just wanted to set "my" record straight in that I am not advocating, whatsoever, cleaning your coins.

Yes, I was surprised to see a response too. I have already thanked them for their reply to my question.

Pure Acetone is the preferred method for removing stuff off of a copper Lincoln. Not saying that soap and water is going to hurt a copper coin that is of no real value, or if it's just a beat up old coin and you need to see the date or mm or whatever......, if you intend on just keeping for yourself in an album or something. But, if it's a nice Red copper then I would highly recommend using only Acetone, soaking or dipping depending on your objective, and then rinse with distilled water. It's a pretty much time tested way of cleaning copper and is widely accepted and safe.

I will have to agree with you on this point......

But ya still can't beat the 2017 DOC, ATB Bob Ross Quarter!

I just opened up this email I received from the Jewelry store. I had emailed them several days ago inquiring as to the authenticity of the coin and they actually responded. Real gold but a fake coin.

Ya know.... you have one heck of a point there VKurt!!! I will have to consult with my people at the U.S. Mint to have that corrected! How dare they!!!😁

Uh..... I wouldn't recommend soap and water for cleaning any coins especially a copper cent. Just FYI.

Damn good looking Quarter!!!!! Much better than the Wyoming Quarter that looks like it missed any designer input... Just MHO here.

What's not to like about this Quarter??? Especially since the Bulldogs are 7-0 and UNDEFEATED!!!😁

Going to need a bit more explanation on this comment about Georgia, Roger.........

Hello Emmy1 and welcome to the forum. Your quarter appears to have a seriously large die chip or possible what is called a Freestanding Interior Die Break but I don't believe it is big enough to be that, probably just a large die chip. Your close up pics are pretty good, please try to orient them in the proper/upright manner, but either way this is not an error.

Good, it weighs 3.1 grams. This is even better because this means that it is a copper Cent. A copper Cent is 'softer' than a Zinc Cent, relatively speaking. This will make it that much more susceptible to post mint damage in the way of hits, dents, and dings. Let's start from the beginning here. Look at all of the damage on your Cent in the reverse pic you posted. Now, look at all of the damage on your Cent in the obverse pic you posted. Now, let's look at the edge of your coin in your third picture and observe all of the damage there as well. The "rim" of your penny, in which you referred, does not have ridges. The nomenclature, or proper term for this particular area on a coin is not the "rim". It should be properly referred to as the edge of the coin, just FYI. The rim of a coin is the raised area on the perimeter of a coin, both obverse and reverse, which was designed to help protect the coin from damage which yours unfortunately failed to do. I could easily take a copper Lincoln Cent, roll it across a hard textured surface, and create the exact same thing you are seeing with your coin, respectively. As other very knowledgeable members here have commented.... your coin is nothing more than a result of post mint damage. The ridges on the edge of your coin you are seeing are not even remotely consistent, nor look like, the reeding produced on reeded edge coins.

Hey Bill. I'm sorry if you didn't fair too well on this one price-wise. You seem to be a really nice person from all the comments you've made and always roll with the punches so to speak which I really do respect. Ya gotta have some thick skin here on the forum for sure (which you definitely seem to have) and I believe everyone is just trying to help you out as a collector and as forum friends. Even I have thrown a less than accommodating comment, or two, your way in the past and you've always given me a like or thanks.... Hey..... even if this one is not MS, at least it wasn't a three, or even four, $ figure coin mistake. No harm, no foul. Heck, I've lost $40+ bucks before on frozen and refrigerated groceries I forgot were in my truck in the middle of the summer..... we all make mistakes at times as humans. Maybe your lighting wasn't very good in your pic of this 1921 which led it to an AU.... don't know, not sure. I'm not a grader, still learning though. I would like to ask what the others are seeing that brings this down to AU but I'm not going to ask......HA! (I think I just did) all in the effort to continue to learn, respectfully so. Also, quoting your P mint mark thing, I'm sure you know, but the Mint never put a Philly MM on Morgans. Good luck brother.

Also keep in mind that the wording and date on the reverse around the perimeter of these coins are incuse.

If the coin has been stamped then it has pretty much been trashed for any numismatic value due to this damage.... Exactly about "If it were authentic, why would they stamp it"...... Regardless, if in fact it is (and hopefully so) still 22Kt gold, at least you have the bullion/melt value. Not sure what the current price is for this one, meaning the weight of the coin and current spot price, but hopefully you didn't pay more for it than its melt value. And once again... granted it is 22Kt. I think it's time to bust it out of the package but let's see what others say.

First of all welcome to the forum. Secondly, I have some questions. Are you a dealer? You say you are getting coins in weekly but previously said this below: With your statement above, how can you say, or know, that "the few coins I missed are 1K to 5K" in value but yet then ask us for a website that quickly lists coin values? How did you know they were valuable coins without THE knowledge of knowing they were valuable coins? And if you are a dealer, and your own photographer for selling and presenting coins, then why would you be asking us for our opinion on grades? I am somewhat confused. You clearly claim to be getting in 2000 coins weekly (which signals to me you are a dealer), you are taking photos of your coins for auction purposes, you have customers that told you that you should have your coins graded, but then ask us to grade your coins and for websites that can give you prices on your coins??? Something isn't adding up here.

While typing, my last post crossed with the op's post. What is that on the reverse of the coin? Is that on the coin or the plastic?

I completely understand your thought but I have a question. Do you think this jeweler, who created this item, would put both real coins and then fake coins into the same type of holder they use such as the one the op posted? I would like to think that this jeweler knows their business and that they may in fact have done some type of promotional thing where they may have created 100's of these things and gave them out with replica coins even though it says 22Kt. Remember, this is a different continent and their advertising regulations, rules and laws may not be the same as they are here in the States. Maybe they were referring to (indirectly) the composition of an 'original' coin of the such. I don't think a better pic is needed for the jeweler in question to answer whether or not they placed real, or fake, coins into these credit card looking holders. If they need a better close up photo, then that is on the op if they wish to supply this. Other than that, if this jewelry company decides not to answer my/our email then once again.... it will be on the op's shoulders to bust it open so that good close-up and clear pics can be supplied to validate the coin. I seriously doubt the holder this coin is currently in would add any value to the coin if it were found to be real. Just stating MHO here. Thanks.

Not sure if you saw my post Roger but I did do what you suggested. I sent them an email with attached pics from the op inquiring as to the validity of the coin. Not sure what the time difference is in that part of the world (didn't look it up) but I have not yet heard back from this Jewelry dealer yet.

Steel Lincoln Cents should weigh 2.7 grams give or take their acceptable tolerances. A copper Lincoln should weigh approximately 3.1 grams and has a weight tolerance of +/- .13 grams. The zinc cored and copper plated Lincoln Cents should weigh approximately 2.5 grams with a weight tolerance of +/- .10 grams. As far as the 1943 Steel Lincoln I believe it still abides by the weight tolerance of +/- .13 grams. The steel Lincoln's normal weight is approximately 2.7 grams (actually 2.689 grams to be exact) and it seems your steelies are within the recognized tolerances. Just FYI, there have been numerous coins of all denominations found over the years that fall outside of the published and known mint tolerances. However, in order for a coin to be considered a true oddity or mint error regarding weight, it would actually need to fall well outside of the recognized tolerances. 31 U.S. Code § 5113 - Tolerances and testing of coins