Greenstang

Welcome to the Forum
There is a big difference between damage and wear to a coin and an actual error.  
Suggest you study a bit to tell the difference. This way you can save time by knowing what to look for.
error-ref.com is a good site to see what actual errors are.
Variety Vista is a good site to study up on varieties.

Missing copper and larger diameter= Texas Cent
It is considered damage and has no Numismatic value but keep as a novelty if you like.

You can tell at a glance that is a Large Date. Easiest way to tell is just look at the distance between the 2 and the rim,   
if you can fit another number in the distance, it is a Small Date, if it is close to the rim, it is a Large Date.

You can tell at a glance that is a Large Date. Easiest way to tell is just look at the distance between the 2 and the rim,   
if you can fit another number in the distance, it is a Small Date, if it is close to the rim, it is a Large Date.

Welcome to the forum
Damage is not an error. Value 25 cents.

As stated earlier, it is just damage from a hit.

Welcome to the CCF
First of all, most errors are one of a kind so every one would be newly discovered.   
As noted above, it is best to assume anomolies are damage first (over 90% of them are) and then see if it can be an error.  You have to remember that an error  can only happen during the striking of the coin while in the coining chamber, anything that happens after that is damage. It is best to learn how coins are minted, there are numerous sites on line, and then study what an actual error looks like. A good site for this is error-ref.com  to see what an actual error looks like. The more studying you do, the more you will be able to eliminate damage from an an actual error. Do not be afraid to post questions though, if you have another coin you think is an error, post a clear photo of both sides and tell us what you think the error is, this way we will be able to tell you if you are right or wrong.
 
 

Welcome to the CCF
First of all, most errors are one of a kind so every one would be newly discovered.   
As noted above, it is best to assume anomolies are damage first (over 90% of them are) and then see if it can be an error.  You have to remember that an error  can only happen during the striking of the coin while in the coining chamber, anything that happens after that is damage. It is best to learn how coins are minted, there are numerous sites on line, and then study what an actual error looks like. A good site for this is error-ref.com  to see what an actual error looks like. The more studying you do, the more you will be able to eliminate damage from an an actual error. Do not be afraid to post questions though, if you have another coin you think is an error, post a clear photo of both sides and tell us what you think the error is, this way we will be able to tell you if you are right or wrong.
 
 

Welcome to the Forum
Pictures are a little out of focus but if it is a dent, it is either PMD or a Struck Through.  
A clear closeup of that area might help in determining the cause.

As there is no value to that aftermarket case, I can't see any harm in taking the Morgan out and putting it in an airtite. It would certainly be much smaller for storing and would eliminate any chance of misrepresenting it.
 

Speculation doesn’t really matter know as the OP has already sent the dime out for verification.  
All we can do know is wait for the results. Hope things turn out well.

The pictures are clear enough.  
As I stated earlier, something, possibly solder, has been put on the reverse.   
Maybe it is part of a clasp to make jewellery.
Doesn’t really matter though, it is damage to the dime as it wasn’t on there  
when the coin was struck.

Sorry but that is a 1942. A 1943 has a different shaped upper half.

A classic case of worthless Machine Doubling.

Nice to hear things from the other side. I think a lot of sellers expect dealers to pay nearly full price for coins not realizing that the dealer has to make a profit too. I know when I have sold some coins to my dealer, ( manly because I couldn’t be bothered with selling them individually) I am happy with the 60% trends that I get.

If you are referring to the face, that is Machine Doubling.  
Anything else, please specify as we are not good at guessing.

If you are referring to the face, that is Machine Doubling.  
Anything else, please specify as we are not good at guessing.

Photo is too pixilated.
Do not use screen shots.

Why not just leave it in the betzel, the value is in the platinum due to it probably being damaged from being in mounted.

Not an error, that is a plating bubble.
If you want to see what real errors are, study how coins are minted because it is only an error if it happens during the striking of the coin and also go to a sight like error- ref.com and study that forum.  
You can post partial photos as long as a complete photo accompanies it.

OP
Perhaps you should learn how coins are minted.  
Mint employees do not try to “ fix “ coins.  
It can only be an error if it happens during the actual striking of the coin   
and what you have could not have happened at that time. 

Babba Beck
Overkill on the photos, a full shot of each side and maybe one or two closeups would have been sufficient.
Whatever leaves you to believe that is an SMS Cent? It is a nice looking 1964 business strike.

Your heading says 1961 coin, your write up says 1995, you show a 1993 cent.
Whatever you are seeing just can’t happen during the striking of a coin. As I stated in your other post,  learn how coins are minted and then you can save time from looking for things that just aren’t there.
 

Your heading says 1961 coin, your write up says 1995, you show a 1993 cent.
Whatever you are seeing just can’t happen during the striking of a coin. As I stated in your other post,  learn how coins are minted and then you can save time from looking for things that just aren’t there.
 

That is due to the fact that the last Canadian PL sets were struck in 1967.  
There were no PL coins after that.
What 1968 coin are you referring to?