Coinbuf

A nice find for sure.

Unlike your first photos these last two give pause, the "R" still looks rather like strike doubling. But the "Y" is a classic split serif that indicates a Doubled die. I suggest you post this on the CONECA site for more views and comments before you make a decision on what to do next. But when you do make sure you post all the photos not just the first ones you posted here.

No split serifs, looks like MD to me.

Great catch @Ali E. However I cannot help but think what fun it would have been for you to have a forever plaque to commemorate the spelling.

JP is the column still there and no prices showing or is the column gone too. I just checked 4 of my sets and the information is showing for me, just wondering if you might have deleted the column by mistake.

As @Woods020 wrote you most certainly can submit this coin to NGC for attribution and grading, no once you send the coin in to a grading service they will return the coin in a holder with a grade you do not have the option to receive it back raw. The only exception to this is if the grading company (NGC) deemed the coin to have issues to the extent that the TPG did not want to render a grade opinion then it would be returned raw, we call these coins bodybaged. But that is a choice that the TPG makes not the person that submits the coin. However once you receive it back there is nothing preventing you from opening the slab and returning the coin to a raw state. I would strongly advise against you submitting this coin as from the photos I see no chance that it will be attributed as the lone single certified example of a 1910 VDB. But if you have the desire and do not mind spending $75 to satisfy your curiosity, you certainly can send it in. The instructions on how to submit are on the NGC home page and you can ask here or contact NGC customer service if you have any questions about how to fill out the form.

Sad to see the fate these coins have suffered, but unfortunately there are collectors for coins like this so as long as dealers can find willing buyers they will stay around in the marketplace. Just this week on the forum ats a new member showed off thee Merc dimes that he had found while at work. All three were cleaned and when the members there informed him that it was not advisable to clean coins his reply was "I like them shinny".

I would not expect much in the way of value appreciation for the coin as a collectable, far too many were minted, saved, and graded for these to ever be rare. But if silver values were to rise and find a new higher equilibrium then your coin would be valued higher. The old saying : "a rising tide lifts all boats"; your boat needs the rising tide to give it a lift.

Everything that I have read on this subject leads me to believe that a 1910 dated coin with a 1909 VDB reverse die is highly unlikely. If you read the mint records you will find that two reverse master hubs were created, one with the VDB and one without. the one without is the master that was used to produce all the reverse working dies for 1910 on, by the time any 1910 coins were created all the 1909 VDB reverse dies should have been returned and taken out of service. So from the mint documentation there is no possible way for a 1909 VDB reverse die to have been used with a 1910 obv die. This is were the speculation and fantasy comes in, there are some who think that it is possible that the mint was frugal and one or more 1909 VDB rev dies were reworked to remove the VDB initials and then used on coins including in the 1910 production. At this point it is merely an old wives tale and speculation until a proven documented specimen is authenticated by a respected TPG which I think is highly unlikely. I did read a report form one well known Lincoln collector of a certified coin (certified by SEGS) he saw at a show with a Fiaz/Stanton certification accompanying the slab. I have never seen this slab nor have I ever seen a photo of said slab and certification, if it exists it must be buried in a collection that has been long out of sight. Now as to the op's coin and QA's love for the 30X loupe; and the issue with using such high magnification; once you use such high levels of magnification it is very easy for pareidolia to set in and we see things that we want to see. I always say that everything looks like something at the micron level.

Wow that would be perfect for my parking lot set!

Yes I enjoy buying the odd piece of currency now and then. My two favorites are my battleship $2 note and a $1 large note from 1917 with the signatures reversed. A few large note silver certificates, a wood chopper note, some small silver certificates, a bunch of fun but not valuable $2 small size bills, and a couple of foreign notes. Nothing that I have is valuable or in high grade condition except for a few of the cheap modern $2 bills, but notes are fun and I enjoy looking at them from time to time. I should have bought more years ago when notes were less expensive, last show I went to the prices seem to have skyrocketed. Although I guess I could say that about most collectable items these days.

Yep just a damaged coin, in addition it appears that you or someone else cleaned the coin so even if it were an error the value was destroyed by the cleaning. You also asked about the value, it still has a value of one cent so you can spend it.

Should have gone with my head not my gut.

The line from the roof to "R" appears to be raised in the tilted photo; and while I cannot say with 100% certainty from your photos it could be a minor die crack. It may also be a minor die chip or simple post mint damage. Die breaks and the resulting cracks are interesting however they seldom add much value to a coin unless really unusual or significant. Same thing for die chips, can sometimes be interesting but they are a common minting defect and again very seldom add any value. If you have been watching the youtube videos on how to get rich from finding errors in pocket change I'm sorry to inform you that most of that is hype and BS. Yes every now and then an error or variety is found searching rolls or change, however most are very minor and have little to no value. Finding one of the tiny handful that do have some value does not happen randomly or quickly, if it were that easy we'd all be millionaires. Most major errors are funneled out to specialty dealers via the channels they have cultivated. I'm not trying to discourage you from searching just giving you the true facts that you may not have been given if you have watched the get rich quick videos. I hope that someday you do find a cool error, but you should prepare yourself for far more disappointment than elation.

I remember reading either here or ATS that the MAC sticker guy was part of the now defunct Accugrade ACG grading firm. I do not know if that information is truly factual or mere speculation or gossip. However if true it would explain much about the sticker.

You have every right to be proud of your all your sets, they show the dedication and work that you (and now Shandy) have and are putting into the collection. It is kind of sad to see the journal awards gone, I'm not much of a writer myself but have always enjoyed reading the journal entries posted by others. I hope this will not cause folks to abandon the journals altogether, they add an extra and interesting dimension to the boards.

Hmmm toughie, what appears to be a touch of friction on the upper cheekbone and hairline may just be slightly darker toning. But I'll go with my gut and say MS65.

Some cool examples Stephanie, love to see them posted and enjoy. Sadly I have none in my collection to share so I will live vicariously through collectors like yourself until I am able to add something along these lines to my collection.

A couple of honest hard working 2 cent coins @J P Mashoke. I would think that the 1865 might grade slightly higher than the VG10 on that holder perhaps F15 or just sneak into VF20, however as I'm sure you know its the second highest mintage in the series. So from a straight value standpoint I would not do anything different that the coin world holder its currently in. I only see the obv photo of the 1869, however from that side the grade on the holder looks slightly optimistic, maybe closer to G06; so even with its slightly lower mintage of 1.5 mil I do not see a reason to spend any money on it. Of course my opinions are biased on strictly value vs costs equations. There are many coins that are sent in to be holdered for reasons that have nothing to do with value or cost.

My wife and I spent 5 days in DC and went to most of the museums including the Smithsonian, sadly the 5 days went by too quick and we still did not see everything. We plan to make it back there again but will wait until things are not barricaded or fenced off as it is now. I too have Mark's book and while the equipment has improved since it was written his techniques and process is still very valid. Unfortunately I don't have quite the high quality equipment (especially the lighting) that he has and cannot yet get to his level of results. But like you I plan to keep working on my macro photo skills and perhaps I'll get closer one day. Without a doubt his work is a big part of my award and I thank him for all the great photos he has taken for me over the years. Thanks, he does take some phenomenal photos. I've used three different pro photographers in the past, one was very good but I still see Mark as the very best of those I have used; but as we have seen with LemE's photos there are some very talented shutter bugs out there. Thank you Gary! I will be on for awhile I think as I enjoy this honor. The congratulations from so many accomplished members here just inspires me to continue to improve this and my other sets as I continue along my journey.

Lol it will take longer than a day, but if left alone it will continue to deteriorate, albeit at a slow rate.

I agree with Bob, it would be great to see you post some of your cool tokens and collection pieces here again. And many of us knew you are a girl.

She has seen years of use, and perhaps some abuse along the way; but still a very nice collectable coin. A long soak in some mineral oil might help with removing some of that surface material if it is organic.

Congrats!! A cool set and I'm sure that you had fun putting it together, getting an award is just icing on top.

In the custom sets there are a number of categories available to choose from. One category is not really right or wrong vs another, just a personal choice of which category fits your set the best. This can easily be changed if in the future you decide that you want your custom set in a different category by editing the set and choosing a different category. I currently have one set in the Thematic and Topical Coins category and one in the Other category. You can also start competitive sets; one for the Morgan series and one for the Peace series; using the same coins in your custom set should you decide that you want to do that in the future too. There are many choices, none are wrong so choose what fits for you.