Coinbuf

You are correct I always think of the 2020 having only 4 because I consider the Tuskegee quarter as part of the series; but that design did not have a W mintmark. As to any of these being a key date I think you have to consider more than just the mintage number. Yes 2 million per design is not very much per se; but unlike many low mintage coins of the past I would bet that close to 90% of the W quarters have been found and saved in high uncirculated condition. So at least for the near term I think the supply will outstrip the demand; fifty years from now could be different.

Sounds like your more of a fan than you give yourself credit for.

Don't know I'm not a fan.

There may have been one although I do not recall seeing one offhand. Those collectors that are into the lowball sets seems to hang out on the forum ATS mostly from what I have seen. Cannot say, I don't hang with Laura, why don't you ask her yourself at the next show.

I would think the CAC would hurt it in the NGC registry, ATS they have their sets split out between CAC and non CAC. So it would have no effect in the non CAC sets.

If you are accessing your set on the old NGC registry system (that is where the custom sets are currently) that system does not allow for an automatic upload of any photos that NGC has taken of your coins. Keep in mind that NGC does not have photos for every coin and those photos that do exist in the NGC system are slab shots only. If you have ever used the NGC photo vision service those photos are not kept in the NGC system, NGC emails those photos to the person that submitted the coin and paid for the photo service, but they are not available to be directly linked. You need to access the new registry from the NGC home page, your login credentials are the same as you used on the old system when you created your custom set. Once logged in you can use the tabs on the left hand side to navigate to your competitive coins. This will bring up a list of all your coins in your inventory including those in your custom set. Once the list is up the first column will be for images. You click on the first image (it will show a + in the window if there is no photo there) and a dropdown menu will appear with two choices. You click on add NGC image and the system will retrieve the slab photos of the coin if they were taken by NGC when the coin was graded. The second option is to add your own images. If in the future you decide to add your own images it is very simple to do so, follow the same procedure but if there is a photo already you will get a third option in the dropdown of replacing the image. Once you do this for each line in your inventory (there is not a faster way that I am aware of) those photos should automatically show up in your custom set. It can be done using the old system but it is a very time intensive activity and just way easier to do on the new system. If you use those coins again for another set either custom or competitive those photos will automatically be shown in the new set for every coin in your inventory that you have done this for, you will not have to do this again unless you want to change the photo. Hope this helps.

Awesome glad that you got it all worked out in starting your new competitive set or sets. I wish I had a better crystal ball, mine is rather cloudy. But my feeling is that the statehood quarters or any of the commemorative quarter series quarter rolls that were sold from the mint has a very low chance of ever being worth more than a couple of dollars over the face $10 in value. There could be in some of the rolls a few individual coins that could be valuable; however the only way to know would be to open the rolls and see if any of the coins is an extremely high grade coin. They would need to be at least MS66 for most of the coins in those series to cover the cost of grading/slabbing; and MS67 or higher to see a profit. My personal guess is that most if not all the coins in those rolls would grade lower than MS66, but that is just my guess and I could be very wrong. As you have said you are new to coins and this collection was left to you it may be difficult for you to correctly identify the difference in a coin that will grade MS66 vs MS67. And just sending in everything would be cost prohibitive so that leaves you with some choices; first you could find someone (a collector or dealer) in your area that will review the rolls and recommend any that could warrant sending in. The one problem with this is that you would no longer have rolls in the mint packaging and therefore any secondary market value for US Mint rolls would be gone. Second you could just hold on to them and pass them on to your heirs and hope that these may increase in the future. Or you could sell them now somewhere like Ebay; hope to get a couple of dollars over the face $10 per roll and move on. In a quick random search, I found one seller selling 2003 P & D Illinois State Quarter Rolls - Uncirculated from U.S. Mint asking $25 (plus shipping) for the two rolls. This is just one random search, and you will need to do more research to determine if some dates have more value than others. I do not collect statehood quarters so I do not follow the pricing on these either individually or for the rolls. I wish I could give you a more exact answer, but it really is a dice roll as to if these rolls left alone and saved will ever have much value in the future.

The weight tells the story, it should weigh 2.5g so at 2.8g it has been plated.

I can see how this may rub some dealers the wrong way, just as the decision to eliminate PCGS coins from the registry a few years ago hit a sour note with many collectors. But as I think about this it seems to be no big deal for any dealer that spend over $1300 a year. That is right around the breakeven point where the %15 discount on grading fees covers the fee. So yes for a dealer that spends less than that each year it may be a turnoff, but for those who do or spend more the 15% grading fee reduction will save them money over the year. Easy to support a company that is saving you money.

I may have a surprise or two for you again this year.

She does look better I think, while nothing can help the areas that have been damaged from the active crud that was on the coin; removing it now will keep it from eating into the surfaces any farther.

Your phone photos are perfectly fine and clear to the question you asked, far better than most microscope photos which give the viewer no perspective of what the viewer is seeing.

I think your tripping yourself up on a couple of verbiage issues, the first being the idea of "moving" your set. Your current custom set is not moving or changing in any way, it will remain just as it is. What you are doing is starting a new set (or sets) in the competitive section of the registry, nothing is moving you are just using those same coins to populate a new set. And no you do not have to enter each line. Read what I wrote again; I noted that you can use the autobuild option and that will populate each line that it can from your inventory of coins. So once you select a set to start you click on the autobuild button that you can see on the top right of the second screen shot above. Second I'm not sure that you are clear on how the inventory system works. When you entered your coins in your custom set you were building your coin inventory at the same time, it is entering all that coin inventory information that takes time. So that inventory is there and you are not going to have to enter each coin line by line for any further sets that you choose to start in the future. The autobuild will automatically use the best coin from the coins in your inventory to fill every slot it can. Let's say for example that you have two 1881-S Morgan dollars one graded MS65 and one MS64; the autobuild will use the MS65 coin as it has a higher point total. However, if you want the MS64 coin in the set because you like it better you can change to it by simply clicking on that + sign at the right of each row and select the MS64 coin. The registry is very flexible and provides you with many options on how your sets look and score. I can start and autobuild a new set in four or five minutes at most, it really is very easy and once you build your first set I think you will understand it better.

The NGC registry does not have the feature you are looking for, that digital album display is only available on the PCGS registry. Just in case you are not aware, the PCGS registry will only allow you to put PCGS encapsulated coins into a registry set. So if you have both PCGS and NGC coins in your collection those NGC graded coins cannot be used. And as last I knew the albums do not have the ability to note which coins are CAC approved. There is a workaround of sorts but it entails uploading a full slab shot for your coin and then using that slab shot for the album. However that sort of defeats the purpose of the album view. @Mr.Bill347's format is a nice solution but perhaps not one that works for your registry purposes. I have no problem with how my sets here in the registry are shown, I can upload my high resolution photos and the software will show coins that are CAC approved as well as show any top pop coins I have.

Welcome aboard!!

Once you have coins entered into your inventory you can start as many sets either custom or competitive as your coins fit into. Just go to the NGC home page, select registry under the resources tab, select browse competitive sets and select a set that your coins fit into. That could be a set for a series say a date set or a full date and mintmark set; or you could start a type set if that is a better fit. You can use the same coins in multiple sets, as an example you can start both a date and a date and mintmark set with the same coins. Once you have decided on which set to start just above the list of current sets you will see +create a set highlighted in green. Click that and fill in the set name and info you want others to see and then click start set. You will then see all the slots and on the right side you will see a + in green that will also have a number, that number is the number of coins you have that could potentially be used in that slot, see this screen shot as an example. You can add each coin by clicking the + and choosing the coin you want or use the autobuild set option also shown in the screen shot. That automatically build the set using the coins that have the highest points for each slot if there are more than one coin per slot available in your inventory. After you are finished you can then decide if there are other sets you wish to start and begin the process again. It may take a few minutes for the first set but once you do one it will be very simple to start any additional sets you desire to start. Have fun and enjoy the registry.

Very nice, congrats!

Another vote for a damaged, worn 1882 Philly Morgan dollar, no visible errors or VAM's that I see.

I'm being buried with my collection, its mine and I want it!!

Congrats!

Beautiful!! I am heavily biased but you made the right call imo!

You did the quote wrong, I did not write "Anybody have any experience with late model coins graded below 70?". The op wrote that.

I may have misunderstood your inquiry, I was under the impression that you wanted confirmation on a cud/damage which is what most members answered about. If your question is "are the initials missing due to damage" then that answer would be no. Mr. Lange has commented that in his opinion your coin could be authenticated as a missing initial coin,; however I'm not sure if it would be worth the cost to have it authenticated and graded given the condition.

Agreed, I'm just seeing a well worn coin that has done its job in circulation.

A nice find for sure.