Coinbuf

I'm afraid that your full coin shot is too blurry to be of any use, however between the fact that Variety Vista has no DDO's listed for 1961 and what I see in your closeup of the date I would say that you have some simple mechanical doubling. Welcome to the forum.

Agreed

The AW stands for the designer Adolph Weinman. As to the rest it really means nothing, if you broke those out and mixed them up you would never know which were produced at which mint facility or which was the 69's or 70's. Unless you're doing a registry set which requires one of the special labels or flipping it means nothing, just marketing fluff to get collectors to buy more.

The best way to figure out a value is to look for previous auctions for this type of coin with this problem. Here is the first one that I found in a PCGS holder, PCGS uses slightly different verbiage but this example is the same as what you have. Also can you provide a photo of the NGC label too. Heritage sale of proof alt color Your options, well you could crack this out and send it back to NGC or use another TPG like PCGS or ANACS and see if you get the same result. That will take time and money, and because there is not a big price swing between what that PCGS detail coin sold for and what most PR63's are crossing the auction block for I do not think I would consider it worth the cost, but your choice.

Yes really.

Last I heard no the mint was not doing tours. Yep we each got one blank cent planchet.

Prior to covid my wife and I took the tour of the Denver mint while we were there visiting our daughter. It was a fun experience and I learned a few things and saw some of the old equipment that the mint has on display.

I'm sorry but you cannot use coins minted at different mints and different years as a way to prove you have something, it does not work that way. Also I see zero resemblance from your 1958 to the 1958-D you have linked at Variety Vista, not identical in any way. You are free to disagree and also free to send in your coin to have it authenticated, but you will be wasting your money, you do not have a DDO on your 1958 P cent. Edited to add: in case you are not aware as there is only the one DDO for 1958 you would have to have your coin verified as a discovery coin before it could be sent in to a TPG like NGC for grading and authentication.

Not one I know, but I'm also not big on provenance.

Cool!

Ok so first you have posted in the coin marketplace, this section is members to sell coins not ask questions about coins, so I have asked the mods to move your thread to a more appropriate section of the forum. Second the coins you have shown have no doubling just damage from contact with other coins or objects, the second 1958 has a die chip that has filled in the bottom loop of the 8; this was very common and is nothing of any significance. If you find it interesting and wish to keep the coin that is perfectly fine, but it has no doubling or value over the face value. I have no desire to look for another example of a 1958 just because you need proof, however I do have on my desktop an example of a 1955 with a die chip that is filling in part of the first 5 of the date. If you need help to understand what a die chip is you can google the term and find lots of reference material on the web. Here is one article from error-ref.com on die chips. Die chips

We will never know for sure what caused the pattern, the coin might have been sitting at the bottom of a drawer that has that perforated drawer liner in it. What we do know is that it was not done at the mint and thus it is simple exposure to some environmental condition after it left the mint.

I do not know if they are accepting submissions myself the process is simple. Have your forms and coins filled out before you go to the show, then stand in line. A good question for the ask NGC section or perhaps if we tag @DWLange he can provide the answer on if submissions will be accepted.

Joe did a fantastic job, he is one of the best.

There are some good reasons that you do not see wholesalers dumping large amounts of rolls or coins into the retail market. For one that is not their role in the market, and secondly it would crash the Morgan market. Yes there are not likely to be huge hordes of rare old gold, or 1700's bust dollars, however a few pockets here and there will continue to surface randomly. But there are already too many Morgan dollars available, more than the market can currently absorb in reality. Even the "rare" dates and CC dollars are not difficult to locate in the market now, and there is already a surplus of most coins. It is no secret that a complete set (or very close to) of Morgan dollars could be put together at any large show. So if all the GSA's, CC's, and 81-S's that are being held on the sidelines were introduced into the market an already saturated market would crash.

See your other post for answers.

First welcome to the forum, second the mint does not dye coins, the color on that coin came from contact with things after it left the mint. It is not an error and it is only worth the face value of ten cents.

Being on the other side of the table is a real eyopening experience for sure @Woods020, I sort of cringed when I read the post by Chris Mikesh. I do understand and remember when I was new to the hobby and how I thought coins were "rare", after some guidance from a good dealer, long exposure to the hobby, and trips to a large show really showed me just how much I really did not know and just how not rare most coins are not. Even low mintage coins are seldom truly rare, just tougher to locate (nice) and more expensive to buy.

There is not a section here that is dedicated to photography, however there have been some threads on the subject in recent years. For my money Mark Goodman wrote the book on coin photography, literally. The book And a link to his site which has a ton of information about equipment and tips techniques. Mark Mark is the one I go to what I want really great photos, that is not to say that there are other great coin photographers, because there are like Joe, Bob, Tom, and Jeremy just to name a few. But Mark has always delivered some fantastic shots for me over the years. As to the equipment you can get some really great shots with just a cell phone and the right lighting and white balance settings on the phone. 80% of a great photo is in the lighting not the mega expensive camera/lens, and if you do a search there are some older threads with great tips on using cell phones. And I can say that for around $500 Ray has a very solid setup that will produce some great results. System 400 This photo was taken using the camera and lens from Ray's system that I just linked, not as good as what Mark or one of the pros can do but the photo is in sharp focus and very acceptable to me.

Dye or paint, notice at the top of the rev around the "ST" of states you see the mint red, same for the obv towards the bottom of the bust and mintmark. That is where someone held the coin while dunking it into whatever was used and thus the dye did not adhere to those spots.

All true, that is why you will see some empty tables (or nearly so) at the large shows by Friday. Many dealers are there only to drop off show submissions, lot viewing, facilitate buying on dealer setup day, and to service a few whale customers. They accomplish all that by close of business Thursday and will perhaps leave a token display case with one or two coins and a company sign in the case and maybe (rarely) one person for Friday to answer questions or direct the public to the website. I can think of three firms that consider, and refer to themselves as premier dealers, that operate this way for the Long Beach show. From what I have read and heard that is true for these firms at other big shows as well, they are not there to deal with the general public.

Just Joe, Lee may have misread or had another photographer on the mind as Bob is another of the great coin photographers.

That poor coin has a very bad case of PVC, I would not be surprised if the surfaces have been pitted. It also looks like a details coin due to that large scratch on the obv, I'd say XF details.

While it may be a nice coin, hard to fully judge from just these two partial photos, from what I can see it will not grade high. However it is very possible that you define "grade high" differently than I do.