Coinbuf

I have seen and heard of single lots that had some weird closings or such but never an entire session just closing. I would guess that Heritage has some technical glitch, if you reach out to Heritage please let us know what they say.

From what I know the gold label holders are not known for the toning the coins the way the early green holders are. However, as with most slabbed coins, if you do not store them properly any number of outcomes are possible. While many blame the labels as having a high sulfur content (or whatever the excuse) the real culprit is improper storage, high humidity and heat are the real cause of much of the toning from these early holders. I am not doubting that the label is a contributing factor but you need something like heat and humidity to activate whatever is in the label. I know that the environment has more to do with toning than anything else because I have many of these types of early holders, PCI, ANACS and others. Those coins that I have owned for ten or twenty years have not changed much if at all in almost every case. I live in a dry arid climate and store my coins in a SDB in Intercept shield boxes with desiccant packs in the box, even the raw loose silver eagles have gained just a tiny bit of rim tone in all those years. Yet I have seen many people over the years on forums who have shown a newp and then just a couple of years later they then show that same coin off with tons of tarnish on it. They are not storing their coins properly, either by design or something else.

You have a damaged coin not an error coin, it has a value of one cent and I suggest you spend it soon before the zinc rot turns it to dust.

Short answer no, you will get much better data looking at recent auction sites like Heritage, Stacks, and Great Collections. These are more "real" numbers without all the low grade junk and shilling. However the auction sites do not seem to handle as much of the modern material, so for that ebay closed sales can be slightly better, all of these are infinitely better than using sites like etsy or fakebook for pricing.

Beautiful seated dollar examples like that are few and far between for the entire seated series let alone the dollars.

An NGC admin might, just depends on when one sees the thread, calling is quicker. And yes the main number is for customer service, if they cannot help they can pass you to the registry folks for help.

The max per coin value is $3,000 for the standard tier, which the 42/1 could easily surpass, the max per coin value for econ is $300.

Thank you for this photo, I can now see the correct diagnostic die crack, coupled with the close up of the obv date I'm quite confident that you have a legit genuine coin. I also agree with @Woods020 the 21-D has the telltale signs of cleaning hairlines across the cheek, left field, and lower bust. and I am sure that it will get a details grade. It is also possible that this 42/1 may have been cleaned at some point also, that is tougher to say for sure from the photos. If you do decide to send these in for grading please stop back by and let us know the grades, we will be rooting for some good grades.

If you send these in for grading I strongly urge you to use the safest mailing option which is registered mail, it would be a real shame if you had these stolen while in transit. If you are close to any of the major coin shows you could also drop off the coin in person for grading which will reduce the shipping risk for you.

There is no place with a definition of each set, however it seems somewhat intuitive (at least to me) what is likely to be included in each set. If you want to know what coins are currently needed to complete each set you can open that set and in the upper left corner you will see a link that will show all the eligible coins for each slot. Yes coins can be in both custom sets and competitive sets at the same time, in fact you can use a single coin for multiple competitive and custom sets. I have coins that are currently in up to ten sets, for example most of my Lincoln cents are in multiple competitive sets in multiple Lincoln cent sets as well as many type sets and my custom set. Yes the price guide will always use the NGC price guide, it is the NGC registry. A call to NGC customer service/registry department may be able to help you with your typo issue.

There is a diagnostic die line on the rev I don't see it in the op's photo, but I am uncertain if that is because it is not there or because of the photo.

This could be said for many collectors as well. I am constantly nauseated by the things collectors will do when it comes to the coins they say they have in registry sets.

Because of the value of this coin you have to send it standard tier at a minimum, and it is very possible that if genuine and it grades as high as the photo suggests (MS65FB) that NGC will adjust the tier to express and charge you the difference, I say that so you are aware of that possibility. If this were my coin I would use walkthrough to minimize the time it was out of my control.

Spelling was never my strong point. As you know your coin is too early to have been struck with the reverse die as the hammer die, so while similar in look it just cannot be what happened to your 1982 cent. Also let us take a closer look at the impressions on the rim of your coin. The one strong impression does resemble the center of the letter A, however the two marks to the right of the impression that looks like an A do not match the next letter M. Notice that those two appear to be much closer together than the space between the tops of an M would be, and the shape of the indentations is not slanted like the top of an M would be. Also the impression that is farthest right (closest to 12 o'clock) has a slightly half moon shape to it which the letter M does not. And lastly there is another indentation to the left of the one that resembles an A which does not match the shape of an F which would be the letter on the left of the A. From what I see nothing matches up correctly for a die struck error, while an interesting coin my opinion is that this is still some type of post mint transfer (vise job or inadvertent damage) and not a mint error. Bty there was a thread recently on the PCGS forum where a Morgan dollar had the same issue, I tried to find it but was unable to.

Not much to add, Mr. Lange explained what the "A" is for, as to how it got out like that I doubt that anyone has an explanation for that. There are examples of these types of human (I never did understand why these get labeled as mechanical errors) errors from practically every TPG out in the collecting marketplace. If you are looking for a correction to be made you need to contact customer service, it is doubtful that any company would discuss options to unique situations on a forum. I would expect that NGC would be happy to fix the label for free, and hopefully they would pay for the shipping both ways but I do not know that. However there are collectors that like these oddball mechanical error slabs so it is not something that you have to fix unless you would prefer it with the correct label.

The extra weight does suggest some type of plating or a dip in mercury, here is a youtube video on dipping a Lincoln in mercury. Mercury

Not always, just depends on what is on the coin or what was done to it, and some of those readers are better than others. I'm not saying that your reading could not be correct just that I don't see a reasonable explanation of the results you got from the limited information so far, thus it makes more sense to assume the read was incorrect until verified. Have you weighed the coin yet?

A cool mechanical error.

Various type of plating or coating can throw off those metal composition readers, as such I'm not counting on that data being accurate.

Please update this thread when you get the results, should be interesting to see the result.

Dipped in mercury is one possibility, not an uncommon science experiment, and there are some other solutions that will yield this type of result. Unless someone was just testing his skills there would be no profit in counterfeiting a 1979 Lincoln cent.

Correct, over 6 billion made and you have an average run of the mill circulated example worth one cent.

I see an out of focus photo of a portion of a Lincoln cent, 1957-D according to the title but cannot confirm as the date is not showing; that may have some strike/mechanical doubling. Perhaps with some additional information about what you think you see and some sharp in focus full coin photos of both the obv and rev we may be able to help you.

Yep large date, no doubt.

MS62