Coinbuf

The mushy details would give me pause.

Most mint offerings can only go down after the big release and hype, how far down is the big question.

The biggest issue with this is that it's a one way market. Gouge like crazy when selling but pay peanuts if buying, these will never be "rare" in any grade and I will never have any interest in owning one.

That makes two of us Lem!

Nailed it!!

This is the plate coin at PCGS graded as MS66, ok I get that the coin has superior luster, and some areas are well struck like the top of the leg (which is notorious for weakness) as well as through the center of both sides. But all those nodes from a rusted die and the horrible perimeter strike, idk it does not look like an MS66 to me.

An obviously plated coin, 100%.

Very well struck, I cannot decern if there is any rub from the photos so I'm going with MS64, or AU58+ if there is some rub. Fun fact that you may know, the small stars on the half dime were the result of an over polished die while on the dime it was the result of a half dime punch that was used.

Also just in case your are not aware, NGC does not accept PCI for crossovers you would have to crack out the coins and submit raw. And as Conder noted PCI has undergone a lot of ownership changes and the grading is all over the map depending on when the coins were graded. And in the future you should put threads like this in the main US coin or newbie section not in the counterfeit section of the forum.

Yep all large dates, none are worth more than the face value.

I'm sorry to say that you are way off base, this coin was whizzed and then plated, it is worth $.01 at best and nowhere near $200.

I think you paid a fair price for an AU example, not a score and not overpriced.

If it seems to good to be true, it usually is.

I like the second photo.

Just to add you will get more views and replies if you post in the newbie or us coin section of the forum for questions like these.

I'm sorry to say that your photos are not good enough to answer your question on the 1955-S, photos taken with the coin inside a 2X2 make it impossible to really see the surfaces and luster. I can tell you that the 1955-S is one of, if not the easiest, date in the 50's to find really great high grade examples, that is both good but also bad. It is bad because there are already a ton of high grade 1955-S coins already graded, so unless you have a coin that could reach the extreme lofty grade of MS76+ or MS68 there is little point in submitting if you are doing so to sell the coin. And as I said your photos are not good enough to determine the amount of luster which is the critical component needed to reach those lofty grades. I always tell people to look at the NGC coin explorer for information, it will give you the current pops and the price guide info which is very useful when deciding on if a coin may be worth submitting from a pure financial aspect. I have included part of the information available in the explorer, when you look at the number of coins graded by just NGC (and then expect that PCGS has numbers that are on par) you can see that the market is flooded with high grade (MS66 or better) coins, so even if you get a grade as high as MS67 it may be tough to sell for a profit given the market saturation for this date/mm. Now if you are interested in just testing your grading skills and want to submit anyway or want to use the coin for a set then it may well be worth the cost to you to submit. My best guess from your photos is that you will receive a grade of MS66RD, the obverse is very nice but the incomplete "O" of one on the reverse should (I say should because this is not always the case) hold the grade under MS67. But to reiterate the critical element to very high grades is the luster, which I just cannot determine from the photos. I would submit the off center strike, that is a very nice error that error collectors like, and I think the value would be enhanced by having it slabbed.

That is how things were when I was just starting out, of note there were not many coins that were called better than 65 back then. That is sort of where the TPG's got started ad why you almost never saw or see an old slab with a grade better than 65. Then came market grading and bam now we have all the uber high grade (and expensive) coins you could want.

Ahh the old coke vs pepsi debate never a winner but always a classic debate. For me it is very simple, marketing pure and simple it's all just marketing. When PCGS was founded Hall used his contacts with other dealers to develop a network of dealers with high visibility and standing in the coin/show circuit who would "vouch" for and promote the PCGS brand to their customers. These dealers were fiercely loyal, and most still are, to Hall/PCGS and over time they did an amazing job of "selling" the PCGS brand. If you think about it PCGS was super strick and tight with grades when the firm started, hence why there have over the years been so many coins upgraded from the old early rattler and OGH holders. Even today if you can find an old stash of coins held by a collector that bought or submitted coins in those early days a fair number of the coins will upgrade under todays market grading scheme. Heck many of the rattler and OGH coins that get kicked around the market could upgrade, it is just not profitable to upgrade a common date 1881-S from MS62 to MS63, so those coins are hyped and pushed by dealers and collectors as "PQ" so the premium can be reaped without the cost to upgrade. While marketing/networking was the big catapult to the PCGS success, they did/do have some aspects that are seen as better than the competition. Many collectors and dealers have always liked the plastic that PCGS uses, I hear comments like "it is clearer" and "doesn't scratch as easily and NGC" all the time. While I find these minor things sometimes all anyone needs is a small rationalization to adopt a favorite, even if it is more perception than reality. Another part of the puzzle is the registry, PCGS has always had an exclusive registry so if you wanted to participate you had to use or cross to PCGS. Normally I would expect this exclusive nature to hurt a firm, but again the superior marketing and recruiting of high profile collectors, and subsequently the high profile coins, created the demand to "be like the big boys". And so you have collectors that have no chance of competing with the mega rich collectors on the PCGS registry, yet somehow the little collectors feel like they are part of the club by having a PCGS registry set. Today some of that old guard is beginning to loss their dominance in the market and as such the disparity in pricing between NGC and PCGS has shrunk in some segments of the market but there is still a wide spread in some. The one place that NGC has always held a position of dominance is with the world market. So in summary, yes there is a price disparity in the market between NGC and PCGS graded coins with the nod to PCGS (except for world coins), even when both are CAC approved. That price spread has been shrinking over the past 5 years (imo) and some coins/series are much closer than before. I think that as more of the old guard of dealers, and the devotion to PCGS by those dealers and collectors, move out of the market this disparity has an opportunity to reach a more equal level in the future.

Ok, my thoughts are that the 1943 quarter is cleaned/wiped, I'm not sure if NGC would consider it cleaned or not in the grading room. It does appear to have some doubling showing on IGWT, but once I blow up the other letters it gets too blurry to tell. There are a ton of doubled die listings for 1943 and NGC does attribute five of those so if you can identify this coin as a match to one of the five and pay the extra fee it should be noted on the holder if you send it in. The problem is I do not follow the pricing for a coin like this and I am unsure if the DDO notation is worth the cost, especially if it comes back as cleaned. The 1957 Lincoln proof looks to be a standard brilliant coin with no cameo contrast, knowing the pops and price guide I cannot see any reason to spend the money to have this graded.

From what I have seen and read in your threads so far, I do not think you have an accurate understanding of what true die doubling is vs simple mechanical or strike doubling. This comment in particular is very telling: "And after 20 years of grandma giving me pennies that 90% are Doubled Died". I'm assuming you meant to say from a Doubled Die, however I do not believe for a second that anyone has that many coins from a true doubled die. I think you watched a few videos on youtube and used that misinformation to convince yourself into thinking that you have all these very rare coins, when in reality you have coins with the worthless form of doubling known as strike doubling or mechanical doubling. Think about it, coins from a true doubled die are rare yet you claim to have hundreds or more all that exhibit doubling on both sides of the coin, how is it that you have so much of something so rare. I'm not saying this to be mean or dump on you but simply because what you have been saying is not just improbable, it is impossible. What I think is going to happen is that you have and will spend a lot of money on grading very common coins, what we refer to as "pocket change" and be out a lot of money. I hate to see that happen to anyone so I urge you to stop before you spend anymore money and have any coins you want to submit reviewed by a competent coin dealer prior to sending more coins out.

Good luck on the submission please update once you have the grades, curious why you sent these to PCGS rather than NGC.

Welcome to the forum, as both appear to already be in an NGC holder your question seems to be moot. What is the grade that NGC already gave these two coins.

How did that submission turn out?

Really depends on your collecting goals, nobody has to or should get coins graded unless it meets their goals. For example I have a fairly high grade Lincoln set all slabbed and listed in the NGC registry, I also have a raw ungraded Lincoln set (slightly lower grade quality) in an album along with a few other partial raw album sets. It would be foolish and a huge waste of money for me to have all the raw coins graded. Someday, when I want to sell my raw coin collection, it will make sense to have the raw keys graded to enhance their desirability and salability to the public, the rest are better off just being sold as is in the album. There is nothing wrong with leaving coins raw in an album or loose in 2X2's if that meets the collecting goal, just as there is nothing wrong (irresponsible perhaps) with having everything graded if that is what the collector wants. Collecting coins is not about a right or wrong way, it is about collecting goals and methods, both of which are very different from one collector to the next. I know of one person here who does not post anymore, as well as one or two on other chat boards that have spent quite a bit of money having coins slabbed that I would consider pocket change or clearly damaged coins. Sometimes they had a personal attachment to the coin and wanted it graded and slabbed for that reason, some just considered it a learning experience. While I do not agree with their choice and decision, I do respect that it is their money being spent and their choice on how to spend it.

I think your logic is sound, I prefer to think of it as a bad buy or a good buy, which again is very subjective and may not be the same for each collector. As an example when I was younger I used to buy lots of "stuff", just random coins and proof/mint sets many of which were found on the old time bid boards at coin shops. Not bad coins or even overpriced but the randomness of the buys lacked focus and now even today I still have many of those coins just laying around in boxes and bins with no home for them. Even today I still fall victim to the "buy the shiny coin" syndrome every now and then no matter how much I try and stay disciplined. However there are many collectors that enjoy collecting in this way and I'm sure that I have offended a few peeps over time with what may have been perceived as a flippant comment which I did not mean that way but came across that way. Copper coins are tough to categorize due to the reactive nature of copper and the threshold each collector has for the different color designations. A red coin to one may be thought of as red/brown to many others, and so on. Tarnish on coins creates vast differences in reactions from each collector, it is what makes collecting both interesting and conversely difficult.