Coinbuf

The problem I see with your math is your using the NGC and PCGS quides which are for certified coins and applying that to your raw coins, that is an apples to oranges comparison. As already said your raw coins are worth $1 or $3 for the right buyer, not $10; however, having said that it's not all that impossible that you could find a buyer who would be willing to pay $10 a coin in this world. As to future value, well my crystal ball is permanently broken so I'll just say that I think it's a long shot gamble, but an inexpensive one.

There are differences between the three 22 no D varieties, this is taken from the PCGS "official guide to coin grading and counterfeit detection": "No D cent should have the second 2 stronger than the first 2. Also the word TRUST is sharply struck. There are additional diagnostics which differentiate the more expensive and popular 1922 No D Lincoln cents. Therefore, authentication is highly recommended for this variety." In order to properly identify a 1922 no D coin you have to look at more than just the date, hence that is why I said "I would not comment on the authenticity of this piece from just this one partial photo". I, or anyone who knows what they are doing, needs to see the entire obverse and reverse not just one quarter of the obverse to properly identify and attribute a 1922 no D coin. You are lacking the proper information and trying to attribute with only the date, a combination that will lead you to wrong attributions.

Sounds like you did well, did your daughter enjoy her duties that the show?

There is no such thing as a 1929 struck over 1926 Lincoln cent which explains why you cannot find any information on it. Your friend has a coin that was damaged, it received a hit in the area of the numeral 6 and some metal was displaced which coincidentally looks slightly similar to a tail of a 9. Just simple PMD, there are no documented different date overstrikes for the Lincoln series.

I cannot say about PCGS, I suspect that NGC would return it with nothing on the label except for the normal info with a grade. This is an error but it happens so often and is a very common manufacturing defect, as such this is looked upon like strike doubling, an error but too common and insignificant to be worth attributing. At the most you might get one of the TPG's to list something like "minor error" on the slab, but not worth the expense to have it graded.

Welcome to the forum, I think that the mark is well hidden and slid past, maybe seen at the end of a long day. I would be more concerned with that spot above the wing which is not in the NGC photo. What to do, well that depends on when and where you bought the coin. If possible you may be able to return the coin for a refund from the seller you bought from, if you are past the return window you can contact NGC customer service and see if they can help you under their guarantee.

Lots of possibilities, perhaps some die polish loss of detail, could also be the coin was struck with some grease on the die around the upper reverse.

Are you just filling out the paperwork on-line or is this a submission you have already sent? Also in the future it is better to start a new thread rather than piggyback on a thread that is not relevant to your concern.

Welcome to the forum, your coin displays very nice detail, and while your photos are sharp and in focus the white balance of your photos are out of balance. Combined with the angled photo it is impossible to see what the fields look like, what the luster is like, or if the coin shows signs of cleaning. See if you can adjust the white balance to get a more correct color and take the photo more straight on so we can see it better. The 1916-P dime was a very well struck coin as all the master hubs and dies were new which resulted in some really sharp coins. Also, as a new design and first year of production these were horded, thus there are many very high grade examples to be had and that keeps the prices down somewhat. Here is a link to the NGC explorer page for the 1916-P, it shows the population information as well as some recent price history for this dime. NGC explorer

Really, so why are we paying huge prices at the pump if this is true; you need to stop believing everything you see on CNN.

A correct 1922 no D strong reverse will have the second 2 struck better than the other numbers, however I would not comment on the authenticity of this piece from just this one partial photo.

Congrats, I was surprised that the awards showed up this early, was expecting another month or so from what I had read in past years.

A very nice example, congrats!

Some unfortunate staining, but a real nice album coin.

This coin was used as a pin or a piece of jewelry, what you see is the solder after the pin mount was removed.

Looks like a struck thru capped die.

Mike and JP are correct, your coin is suffering from die erosion which leads to the letters looking distorted and is often mistaken as a doubled die by those new to the hobby. Also as JP noted you have a 1980-D and the listing on VV is for 1980-P.

I would second the opinion not to leave coins to loved ones unless they are active in coin collecting themselves, this ends up being a burden and they become the type of "target" that the less scrupulous dealers look for to buy at pennies on the dollar. If you are unhappy with what you have now the best bet is to sell or work a trade if you have a decent relationship with a local dealer. Best of luck with whatever path you choose and welcome to the forum.

Sorry but I do not see any die doubling in your photos, just lots of die erosion.

I received my plaque and gift that NGC gives to all the registry major award winners each year. The plaque I will place next to my framed award for my 1940 mint set, the 2021 T-2 ASE is an awesome gift and will be a nice addition to my type sets. I cannot thank NGC enough for all they do to promote the hobby and help collectors.

Sad but very true.

Plating blisters, common issue with the zinc core Lincolns.

There is nothing that anyone can tell you from those photos, when you can provide some clear in focus photos we will be able to help.

Hello Justin, welcome to the forum. What is your question on this 1964 Lincoln, very nice job on the photos, however we need to see full photos both obv and rev as well as any detail shots you can provide like you have in your op. Once we know what you are asking about we can help you with any information we have. What I see in your photos is a normal coin with some dings, spots, and fingerprint stains, the color does not look off but I would rather have the full coin photos before I comment on that aspect. This is not a coin that should be sent in for grading but could be a nice album coin. Make sure you do not clean any of the coins and always hold coins by the edge not the face of the coin.

Welcome to the forum, as the weight you are reporting is too light for a copper coin (3.11) and too heavy for a zinc coin (2.5) the most logical explanation is that your scales are off. Other possible scenarios are that it is plated or perhaps an overweight planchet. I suggest that you post some good clear in focus photos of both sides of the coin so we can see what you have and provide additional feedback.