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Just Bob

Member: Seasoned Veteran
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Posts posted by Just Bob

  1. On 2/13/2023 at 11:47 AM, EagleRJO said:

    Wow, the first one has a really old holder!  Have you been able to match it up with a particular generation holder, if that even is of interest to you.

    It looks like a generation 8, used August and September of 2000. It would be easier to identify if both labels were uncovered, but I understand why JP doesn't want to do that.

  2. On 2/5/2023 at 10:16 AM, J P M said:

    What gave it away Bob , the second 7 being so ugly.

    I could post pictures with circles and arrows, and lay it all out, but I prefer to make this a "teach a man to fish" reply. I will give the basics, and provide some links for further study, if anyone is so inclined. This information is also available in the Red Book.

    As Sandon stated above, Trade Dollars had two obverse types. There were also two reverse types. (Skip Fazzari has done extensive research into these, and has identified several sub-types, which have differences in the eagle's feathers, the right end of the ribbon, and other places.) The type one obverse and reverse were used through 1876, so no coin dated 1877 should show any markers of either the type one obverse or reverse.

    Here is a link to a site with pictures that show the most easily identifiable markers for the two obverse and reverse types. https://www.usacoinbook.com/coins/3169/dollars/trade/1876-P/type-1-obverse-type-2-reverse/

    The NGC Variety Plus page shows which years has which types paired together, https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/united-states/dollars/trade-dollars-1873-1885/819432/

  3. On 1/28/2023 at 4:02 PM, VKurtB said:

    Actual pallets. Wooden skids. I’ve seen it. Brinks drags new ASE’s onto a show floor on a pallet, Lee Minshull signs a submission form and the pallet goes right to NGC. Nobody opens or looks at anything, or even fills out the form, to be honest. 

    Wouldn't you just love to be the newbie at NGC who gets stuck grading a pallet full of ASEs? I'd go nuts! :pullhair:

  4. I seem to recall there being two different varieties with the mint mark placed next to the "5" like that. (A "high D" and a "higher D" ? Or maybe a "high D" and a "not-so-high D"?)

    The one that NGC has listed as FS-401 is the higher of the two, I believe. It appears to match your coin. This one actually did bring a premium at one time, since it was also listed in the Red Book. It may, still - I do not keep up with these.  I am not sure how many collectors would want to buy one as beat up as that one, but it is pretty cool to find one in the wild. Do some looking on Ebay at sold certified examples, and you should be able to tell if it would be worth the money to have yours graded.

  5. I don't want anyone to think that I meant that I was feeling superior, or that not having a set of scales somehow made me a better collector than anyone else. I just never felt scales were necessary to what I collect. I was, however, wondering if I was missing out on something, since everyone else, including almost every newbie, seems to own a set. I sort of felt like the oddball. I find it somehow comforting to find out that there are others like me.

  6. On 1/23/2023 at 9:01 AM, Crruisercharlie said:

    Why are the ranking numbers on my control panel different from the little ranking flag when I look at the set?

    FYI: The link in your signature line is not working, at least for me.

  7. My first guess when viewing on my phone was VF, with XF a possibility, if more luster shows in hand than in the pictures. Viewing it on my laptop doesn't really change my opinion. I can't tell if that is a rim ding at about 6:30 on the reverse, or just a stain, but, if it is a ding, I don't think it would keep the coin from getting a grade. I also can't tell enough from the pics to offer an opinion on whether or not I think it might have been messed with, but I will say that (again, judging from the pictures) I like the look of the coin, since I have a feeling that the toning looks nicer in hand. 

  8. On 1/19/2023 at 7:29 AM, WilliamMorrow said:

    You must first realise that numismatic mistakes arise from the dies, indicating that they were there before the coin was struck.

    Sorry, but this information isn't completely accurate. While some errors are the result of die damage, etc., most of the things involving the dies that are called errors are actually die states or varieties. The majority of true errors are either planchet errors - lamination, improper alloy, clipped planchet, etc. - or strike errors - misaligned dies, broad strikes, double strikes, capped dies, etc.