Just Bob

Do you talk this way in real life, or is this "forum speak?"

Are you adding world proof like coins to your collection, or just the world coins minted in the US? 

The majority of coin related videos on Youtube are designed to get views and not to educate. My suggestion is to stay away from Youtube for now, until you are able to discern the difference between click-bait and legitimate educational videos.

Please do not get in a hurry to start dropping money on coins. That could be a huge money losing venture. I would suggest buying a "A Guidebook of United States Coins," available at most book retailers. The prices may not be current, but you can use them to see how coins within a series are priced compared to others. I would also suggest taking a look at Great Collections and Heritage Auctions, two sites that sell certified coins by auction. There, you will be able to look at lots of pictures of coins and compare prices among different types, years, and grades. Of course, the best option is to look a lots and lots of coins - in person.

When it comes to buying coins, the old saying "education is key" has never been truer.

From 1965 to 1970 the Kennedy half was minted in 40% silver - a core of .209 silver/.791 copper clad with outer layers of .80 silver/.20 copper. This created an edge that is silver on the outer edges and darker gray/silver in the center. The copper strip did not show up until 1971, when the composition was changed to two layers of copper-nickel bonded to a copper core. The mint also coined the silver clad halves in 1976.

Welcome to the forum. As a general rule, the only time off center strikes (involving both sides of a coin) or mis-aligned die strikes ( involving only one side of a coin) are worth a premium is when the design or lettering runs off the edge. 

I do not. Although information about the company's crimes is plentiful, information about the token is not. I can't even find a picture of one online.

Back to tokens:

For over 60 years, the Mississippi Phosphate company, manufacturer of diammonium phosphate fertilizer, polluted the water and air around Pascagoula by allowing acidic leaks and runoff to leach into nearby Bayou Casotte, and by spewing sulfur dioxide into the air. After many bouts with the EPA and other government agencies, the company filed for bankruptcy in 2014 and closed its doors, leaving behind 700,000,000 gallons of polluted wastewater for taxpayers to clean up. After pleading guilty to felony charges of violating the Clean Water Act, the company agreed to give 320 acres to the Grand Gulf Estuary.

Definitely not one my state's proudest achievements.

On 11/2/2022 at 2:30 PM, VKurtB said:

Are examples of wooden money part of the category of tokens? I’ve always thought not, but I can see the opposite argument. Wood has always been a category apart. 

Although tokens have historically been mostly made from metal, they have also been made from shell, Bakelite, Vulcanite, cardboard and wood, among other materials. Wooden nickels and novelty pieces, while not actually tokens, still fall under the category of exonumia, which is what this thread is about. Although "tokens" was specifically stated in the thread title, medals, doubloons, coupons, and other forms of exonumia are welcome here. 

Now, let me address the above post and comments, some of which have since been deleted. Political satire and political views have long been subjects addressed by tokens and other forms of exonumia. There are pages of political Hard Times and Civil War tokens in Rulau's book, for example. Following in this spirit, I do not object to members posting pictures of tokens, etc. which are satirical in nature, regardless of which political party they favor or satirize. Those who find them objectionable are free to report them or ignore them as they see fit.  But I have to ask: where do we draw the line? If we remove the above post, must we also remove all posts which picture anti - Andrew Jackson or anti-Daniel Webster pieces? What about pro-Union tokens? Do we remove them so as not to offend Southerners whose ancestors fought for the Confederacy? Keep in mind that the forum rules state that "all users agree that our web site may expose you to Content that may be objectionable or offensive," What offends one person may not offend most other people. That appears to be the case here. I have a feeling that if the above piece had satirized George Bush or Donald Trump, the reaction would have been different.

I will add one thing: I really dislike when cutsie names are given to clashes and other die issues - like "Bearded Liberty" or "Spitting Eagle." I get why it is done. It is easier to recognize a coin by a name than it is by a description. If I say, "clash of the eagle's wing on the reverse, showing to the right of the portrait on the obverse," it may be hard to picture the coin. But, if I say, "Bugs Bunny," everyone knows it is a Franklin half. I also understand that these names sell coins and TPG labels. I just don't care for them.

On 11/15/2022 at 4:58 PM, ldhair said:

Will a clash keep you from buying a coin?

No. An interesting clash will catch my attention and might make me more likely to buy a coin.

I don't, however, specifically seek out die clashes any more than I do other die states.

It looks like damage, to me. Keep in mind that these coins go through bins, bags, and counting machines, before they ever get put into rolls. That's a lot of opportunity to contact other coins, etc.

On 11/9/2022 at 9:47 AM, EagleRJO said:

@Just Bobmulling over that,  and very true. But then could you not also include rubs from feeder finger actuation, coins contacting and rubbing against each other in the mint bins, while being placed in mint bags or rolls, or rubbing against each other in mint bags while being transported and handled before finally arriving at a bank vault in a "mint state" condition, where some of those things may remove some high point or contact luster?

There is a distinct difference in appearance between contact marks and friction rub, in most cases. I'm not sure I can accurately explain the difference in appearance, and sometimes it is hard to tell. I know - I've been fooled more than once. The only thing I can say is continue doing what you're doing: looking at  lots and lots of coins.

On 11/9/2022 at 8:04 AM, EagleRJO said:

I do recall there being allowances for cabinet friction marks on MS graded coins. So a trayed coin with some cabinet friction would still grade MS, and be different than a high grade AU or slider, correct?

It depends on who's grading it, honestly.

I've seen "cabinet friction" and "slider" used interchangeably. Market grading would allow for a coin with rub to be low Mint State. In my opinion, though, wear is wear, whether it comes from rubbing back and forth in a cabinet, sliding across a countertop, or rubbing against another coin in someone's pocket. Once the luster is gone from the high points, it isn't truly Mint State anymore. My opinion, of course.

On 11/9/2022 at 7:44 AM, J P M said:

I think the correct term for a MS coin with slight drag marks is called a trayed coin. From being slid across the red, black or blue velvet display tray in a coin draw or display case. I could be wrong it would not be the first or last time. 

Also called "cabinet friction."

On 11/8/2022 at 5:36 PM, tj96 said:

What's silver clad?  Never heard of that.  A 40%'er??

Yep. 80/20 silver/ copper outer layer bonded to  a core of .209 silver/ .791 copper.  Works out to 40% silver/60% copper. If you look at the edge of a half minted from '65 - '70, you can see the slightly darker colored core.

The silver clad halves did not have a copper colored band around the edge. If your coin has that band, it is copper nickel clad. End of story.

On 11/7/2022 at 3:23 PM, Crawtomatic said:

Hey Bob!  I've been great.  Thanks for asking. Probably been more involved on the CGC forums over the past year (or lurking on blowoutcards) as I shifted collecting focus back to comics & cards.  How's everything with you? 

I'm getting older and uglier, unfortunately. 

Be careful over there on the comic boards. Those guys are completely nuts!

On 11/6/2022 at 7:47 PM, Dascher said:

I am with you all the way. I apologize for and will tone-down my natural yet ad nausea flow of sarcasm that easily and understandably can (and has already been) misinterpreted. I view the specific dialog between you, Coinbuf and myself as a constructive, academic-like mini applied research project among peers to learn a little and enjoy a lot. Painting it as a "Challenge" and the self-deprecating "I told you so's" have no substance in reality. It's just my way of humor to keep this both real and fun by taking it seriously, but not taking ourselves (and my 8-yo son's non-existent children) too seriously.                                

I appreciate the attitude that you have, polite sarcasm included. Many posters get offended immediately when we give opinions about their coins that do not line up with their expectations. That is normally followed by a few snide remarks or accusations of jealousy, and some members immediately respond with sarcastic or demeaning remarks of their own, sending things in a quick downward spiral. I am glad this thread went in a different direction. I always enjoy posts in which people can give differing or opposing opinions and remain civil - even humorous. 

I will add my own assessment, as well. As others have said, I think the doubling is strike doubling, which is not an error, and I think the coin is AU. I do hope I am wrong on the last part, though, and it comes back with a nice MS grade.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum. (If I haven't already done that)

Here is another one:

On 11/6/2022 at 9:24 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

@Just Bob You coin is a C-3 (R.1).  There are three varieties for this date.  You can tell that this is a C-3 because it has 13 stars on the obverse, the 2 in the date is a little lower, and the leaf tip of the reverse is under (and slightly passes) the last "s" in "STATES".

(Note: the C-2 variety is one of the most interesting in the Classic Head Half Cent Series.  The C-2 has only 12 Stars, while C-1 and C-3 have the correct 13.  The die maker failed to punch that 13th star.)

 I like the fact that you give the diagnostic points to go with your attribution.

We are in agreement on this one. (I also have it as Breen-2 and Bowers/Whitman-2)