Just Bob

Your coin is a 1964, not a 1984. That is Obverse Die Variety 23, which can be identified by the shape of the "G" in "GOD," the shape of the "R" in "TRUST," and the fact that the "E" sits lower than the "W" in "WE." The 1984 uses ODV-32. There are numerous other differences in these varieties, not the least of which is a re-designed portrait. You really should get the dollar signs out of your eyes and do some actual research on these coins before posting wild claims and click-bait videos.

I have experienced issues with the site, as well. It can be frustrating, for sure.

I didn't have any luck finding this in 2019, the first time I saw it, and, I am sorry to say, I had no luck this evening, either.

On 12/28/2022 at 6:29 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Very cool find. Looks to be in very good shape. About what year or time period does that date back to?

I have tried to answer this three times, but my post keeps disappearing. 

One more try:

Probably in the 1930s or 40s. I assume it was issued at the same time as the metal tokens, which are made of aluminum. Aluminum did not see widespread use as a material for tokens or coins until the price dropped enough to make it feasible, which I believe was in the 1930s.

A light oil, such as mineral oil or olive oil, will sometimes loosen caked-on dirt and other gunk, but it takes a long soak. Sometimes several months of soaking is necessary to loosen stubborn material. Also, be aware that olive oil is slightly acidic, and long soaking may have an effect on the color of copper or copper-containing alloys, such as bronze or brass.

This has been an issue for many months, and has been mentioned in several threads. If the web team doesn't know about it by now, it is because they are not paying attention.

I think the solution that was suggested was to clear your cache every now and then. 

I knew that "1743 Lincoln" sounded familiar! What's up, OC? How have you been, Buddy? How many alts does this make? At least 6, right?

The second set of pictures makes it look as though the coin has been cleaned.

Was the purpose of this thread to see how many people you could fool into making the wrong assumption?

On 12/20/2022 at 9:35 AM, GoldFinger1969 said:

Nice article on what to look for in buying an MCMVII High Relief by Doug Winters:

https://raregoldcoins.com/blog/2022/12/13/what-i-look-for-when-im-buying-an-uncirculated-1907-high-relief-double-eagle

Bookmark his blog, he has lots of other good articles especially if you are into Carson City gold, Liberty DEs, and small denomination gold coins pre-1900.  He doesn't write as much on Saints but does every now and then.

Very interesting quote from this article:

"A good number of the High Reliefs graded AU58 and lower have been cleaned or lightly polished at one time; most of these are still straight-graded by PCGS and NGC. "

On 12/19/2022 at 6:17 PM, VKurtB said:

 The standards of this hobby should never be up for popular vote. Right is right. 

And yet, that is exactly what has happened with grading standards. Market grading is accepted because the majority, or at least the vocal minority, wants it.

I foresee a lot of late nights in your future. 

You will have a ball with all of those, though. I know I would.

Here is a good place to start: https://www.wildwinds.com/

So, strike doubling on the first strike, which was flattened by the second strike, which also had strike doubling, causing tripling of the design. Interesting, if not very valuable.

Bookmarked 

Welcome to the forum.

Diameter in millimeters and weight in grams would be helpful. 

Welcome to the forum. You asked what we think, so here are my comments:

1. The statement that the US mint does not make brass cents is true for cents made after 1982, but between 1962 (when tin was removed from the alloy) and 1982, all cents were made of brass, including your 1972-S. Look it up in the Red Book or on this website's Coin Explorer page. The composition is .95 copper and .05 zinc. That is the composition of brass. (here is the link to the NGC page, to make it easy for you: CLICK HERE)

2.  The people who told you about the coin that sold for over $1 million were wrong - it was not something you would find on the ground. It was an uncirculated 1943 cent on a bronze planchet, instead of the normal zinc-coated steel being used by the mint that year, that was authenticated and graded Mint State 63 by PCGS. There was also a MS64 1943-D Bronze planchet cent that sold for over $800,000 in 2021. (There are others, but these were the two highest priced examples I found.)  These are not just some common coins that would be found in a parking lot. They were well-preserved, rare examples that were handled carefully, and were sought after by serious collectors.

3. Your coin could very well be an off-metal strike, since these are known to happen, but I seriously doubt it would bring more than a few thousand dollars at most at auction, unless you found a couple of bidders who were really interested in it. Usually, it is the wrong-planchet transition coins - 1943, 1982, etc., that bring the big money, because some cent collectors feel they are necessary to have a complete collection. Wrong planchet errors are normally sought by error and variety collectors, and there are far fewer of those. (or, at least there were, until You-tube hype videos came along.)

4. You need to handle your coins by the edge. If that coin was actually something rare, getting fingerprints on it (and putting hairline scratches on it when you wipe it off) would certainly lessen the value.

5. We spend a lot of time on this forum warning people against Youtube videos like yours. They are full of misinformation and are designed solely to get clicks and "likes." You are doing this hobby a great disservice, and I, for one, do not appreciate it.

You asked for opinions - that is mine.

Very cool circulation find!

There is a quick way to narrow down the Overton variety, which I use when trying to attribute Bust halves. As Sandon said above, the letters, numerals, and devices were punched separately into the working die, and each die has slightly different placement of these elements. That allows us to compare the relationship between elements and identify each die that was used, and which obverse die was paired with which reverse die. Check the alignment on the reverse of your coin of the "T" in "UNITED" with the "I" in "PLURIBUS." You will notice (if I am reading your picture correctly) that the left side of the vertical post of the two letters lines up almost exactly. If you compare the pictures of the varieties on the Variety Plus page - luckily, this year has only 10 die pairs - you will find that two varieties, O-110, and O-103, match this description. Moving to the left end of the ribbon, we see that the end of the ribbon on your coin lines up with the left side of the post of the "D." Since the ribbon on O-110 extends past that point, that leaves O-103 as the answer to your question.

It isn't always this easy, since reverse dies were sometimes paired with multiple obverse dies, and vice versa. In these cases, you can use "star tip-to-denticle" relationships and other indicators, such as those noted above, to narrow down your choices. In the case of O-103, we know from studying the dies that obverse die 3 was paired with reverse die B, and this die marriage was the only use of either of these dies this year.

Looking forward to seeing what else you have to post.

The OP's coin appears to be Overton-103.

Check Steve Hayden at Civilwartokens.com.   He sells on eBay, and has auctions and catalog sales on his website. I have bought from him in the past with no issues. He always has top notch pieces - usually some R8s and R9s, as well as finest known pieces, and pieces from well known collections.

Also, the Civil War Token Society has auctions for members on its website.

On 12/6/2022 at 10:30 AM, pigeonman333rd said:

So I won last nights Auction some bidder went one dollar bid crazy for the last15 seconds the bid was 83 dollars and ended up 134.00 I lucked out my max bid was 200 dollars. Its an 1852 large cent with a cud mark obverse so it's an imperfect coin but I love those stars and the reason I'm spending the bank said I needed to use my card I hadn't used in over a year I was mostly paying cash for everything. I need to spend for my credit to go up! Ain't she pretty? My guess is she's an extra fine to an AU50.

I hope the handwritten notation "recol." doesn't mean what I think it does, because the color and finish of this coin look iffy.