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Seamus8

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  1. I have "collected" coins since I was a kid in Boy Scouts.  In the 1960s I bought a bag of mixed uncirculated Lincoln cents.  I have 50 each of 1960-D and 1960 Philly mint.  At 75 my eyes arent good enough to say "large date" vs "small date".  Should I send some of each for grading or are they worth the expense?  What would be the most economical way to submit them?  Thanks in advance for any advice!

    1. Sandon

      Sandon

        Philadelphia mint 1960 "small date" cents are worth $5 to $15 in most uncirculated grades. Only superb gems (MS 67 RD or higher) are worth much more. It is unlikely that you have any, and you wouldn't be able to recognize them.  The 1960-D small dates and the large dates from both mints are generally worth no more than $5 in most uncirculated grades. It would cost $23 per coin to submit them to NGC, plus processing fees and shipping costs.  Therefore, it wouldn't be worthwhile to submit them for grading. A dealer might be willing to give you a few dollars for any Philadelphia small dates you might have.

         I'm not sure on which forum you intended to post this.  It appears that the chat board isn't working properly tonight.  I hope this reaches you. If you are a first-time poster, welcome to the NGC chat board.

  2. I have finished reading two books on grading, i.e., "The Art and Science of Grading Coins" by Jason Poe and "The Official ANA Grading Standards for American Coins". I feel I have a very rudimentary understanding of the importance of surface quality, luster, strike, wear, contact marks, eye appeal, and toning. However, I could not find much information in either book about the effect stains have on a coin's grading, other than it will negatively affect their grades. As an example, I have attached several photos of a 2012-D Roosevelt dime with several stains on the reservse. My question is how much (or how many grades) will this staining affect the coin's grade?
  3. The reason I ask is that I recently came across many coins who meet all the criteria of mint state coins, i.e., no wear, rub, or marks on the devices and fields, smooth original looking surfaces, good strike, good luster (cartwheel spokes), few, if any, contact marks, and great eye appeal and toning. I am not sure if these are circulated or uncirculated, but I now know that some of them meet the criteria of mint state. Sandon (and others) thank you for your answer. I now know without a doubt that a coin that has been in circulation can receive a mint state designation. I promise to never ask this question or a similar question again. I got the definitive answer that I was looking for.
  4. I am confused again. I have read that only uncirculated coins can receive a mint state grade designation. However, I have seen on various YouTube videos that coins in circulation that you can receive from banks or stores as pocket change can also receive a mint state grade designation of MS 60 - 70, although this is rare. I will ask this for the last time: Can coins in circulation receive a mint state grade designation of MS 60 - 70? or is AU 58 the highest designation coins in circulation can ever receive?
  5. I bookmarked Error-Ref and ordered "Guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection". Thanks for the tips and recommendations.
  6. As I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering and understand metallurgy, the book The Art & Science of Grading Coins will be a welcome addition to my nascent coin collection library. I just ordered the 2023 paperback edition. Thanks for the recommendation.
  7. Greetings All, I have been reading the following three books to become familiar with U.S. coin grading and error coin, "The Official ANA Grading Standards", "Strike It Rich with Pocket Change", and "The Official Red Book, A Guide Book of U.S. Coins 2023." Obviously, all three books have tremendously helped to educate me. However, I am still having problems recognizing (even with a 10X loupe and under a microscope) what: "Double Die Obverse" looks like. I've seen some more pronounced obvious examples on the PCGS and NGS websites. But I have a question about the two Lincoln pennies below. Does there appear to be doubling in the letters in "LIBERTY"? Or is this just wishful thinking on my part?
  8. Thanks for the ASE storage tips and websites to purchase.
  9. Is there a preferred or correct method for storing silver eagles in the original US mint holders? Temperature, humidity, etc. requirements?
  10. Will ASE's stored in slab holders "tarnish" or begin "orange edge toning"? Also, what is the correct or preferred method of storing slabbed ASE's?
  11. I recently saw an American Silver Eagle PCGS MS70 in a slab holder that had "orange edge toning". Can some please explain what the "orange edge toning" means? Does it devalue the coin?
  12. I have been researching proof coins and proof sets on the internet, but I thought I would ask the experts here the following (dumb) questions: When you buy a proof set for the U.S. Mint, are all the coins in the set MS70 designation? Or would the set contain a mixture of coins with MS61 to MS70 designations?
  13. I recently bought and received from the U.S. Mint a set of 2020 P and D rolls of Marsh-Billings-Rockerfeller National Historical Park (VT) quarters. My two questions are: 1. Are these quarters considered uncirculated? 2. Can they receive a Mint State 61 through 70 designation depending on the condition of the coin?