EagleRJO

I don't agree that grading by a TPG does not add value. There are distinct differences between what raw coins will sell for and what coins graded and slabbed by a TPG will sell for, which is what I think the op means by "graded". Grading by a TPG doesn't change the coin, but changes the desirability in the eyes of many collectors which increases the prices they sell for. Particularly with newer collectors not astute at accessing raw coins. In some cases this difference is not that great, which I think is the case for the coin being discussed.

From a reputable dealer?

Besides counterfeits, the two that I think are very insidious that people fall for are (a) machine doubling represented as being valuable true hub doubling and (b) the 2007-2022 Presidential Golden Dollars, like the one linked above, which people can be fooled into thinking are old coins with worn pieces as the only dates struck on the faces are the years in office. And as JKK noted there are some very gullible people.

They may look clear, but when you zoom in they become blurry. I don't think it's that important for this coin as there is only one minor attributable variety for a 1972-D 50C which is a FS-901 "No FG", and your coin is not that. It appears to just be a circulated coin which has some minor machine doubling on the obverse which doesn't add value. Having a coin graded will increase it's value, even if only by a very small amount like with this coin. A coin would need to be worth about several hundred dollars to break even with the grading cost covered by the increase in value having it graded. That is not the case here, so people have been responding not to submit it for grading as you would lose money.

I think getting a roll hunting mat, like the attached for Lincoln Cents, would work well and are not that much. Saves you the hassle of trying to put the list together of more valuable coins and gives you a nice soft rubber like surface to sort on. I have used something similar for quarters and half dollars I roll hunt, although after a while you remember the more valuable ones to look for. But it's good to have a reminder right there. And I use the mat for looking at other raw coins to so they don't get slide marks and just in case I drop one. Particularly when wearing a cotton glove which make me nervous, even though I haven't dropped one yet.

That is a direct quote of the error-ref.com page on "Improper Annealing" referenced above (https://www.error-ref.com/improper-annealing/), which correctly notes sintered is no longer used and continues as follows ... The dime originally posted, with what looks to me like more of a rust color on parts of the coin, doesn't look like the 1962 nickel with improper annealing referenced which is attached. It also doesn't look like the other examples of improper annealing there or elsewhere I have seen certified examples with that mint error. I don't think anyone can say for sure exactly what happened to your coin to end up with that discolored appearance, but it seems the consensus is environmental damage. You could submit it to a TPG for a more definitive answer, but even if identified as a mint error just discolored coins seem to be going for considerably less than the cost of submission at around $100 with a membership.

It's "doubled" die coins! Some people get the two confused. https://www.pcgs.com/news/its-doubled-die

The op mentioned the FS-101 so I figured they had seen that but completely misidentified their coin anyway. It seemed like they needed to see one with more pronounced hub doubling that more clearly shows the distinct notching a true DDO would exhibit, like the classic 1972 (P) 1C DDO doubling. It gets even more difficult with identifying true hub doubling on modern coins since the introduction of the single-squeeze die making process. So understanding basic concepts becomes more important. Seems like even minor DD's are being attributed by the big boys with how unusual that has become.

You need to lighten up. I don't think some banterous comment about the op needing glasses is completely out of line considering they emphatically stated just blurry pics of a normal worn coin was "hard-core" doubling.

As you probably know there are plenty of rip off listing on ebay for ridiculous prices. Now sold listings, that is a little more reliable tempered with the reality that occasionally someone is not really knowledgeable and gets fleeced.

No, "sIntering" has nothing to do with coin production. It refers to an industrial processing of powdered metals. Don't believe everything you read from a simple google search. The term has been mis-associated with coin lamination errors or discoloration on other boards, and even on older slab labels for some coins with a dark colored cladding. This was incorrectly described as "sintered plating", thought to be from metal dust baked onto a coin during the annealing process. This is now referred to as "improper annealing" since "sintering" in not correctly used relative to coin production. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sintering https://www.error-ref.com/improper-annealing/

See the Error-Ref.com links on lamination errors, or more correctly "delamination" errors, as well as clipped planchet errors. That is a great site in general to learn about errors. Lamination errors usually involve peeling or loss of outer coin layers, which is not what occured to the op's coin. They typically are not very valuable unless it's like a complete loss of cladding on one whole side before striking. https://www.error-ref.com/lamination-error-loss-before-strke/ https://www.error-ref.com/_curved_clips_/

No, there is just gunk and wear of an old cent with some slightly blurry scope pics. I'm not sure what you are looking at, but I don't see any doubling, let alone "hard-core" doubling whatever that is. See the attached for an example of significant hub doubling, with clear signs of notching, as well as an infographic on how to identify that. And no, that is not a blurry photo. Hmmm, another super rare and crazy valuable coin you think was found in your couch, and with "hard-core" diagnostics. Let me guess, right after you saw the video about the super rare proof 1975 (S) 10C No-S you saw another clickbait clueless tuber video about the extremely valuable 1958 1C DDO that you might be able to find in your couch, and figured you could just scoop a similar one out of your pocket change. As noted before, you need to forget those worthless videos, put the scope away, and start over from scratch learning about coin collecting. Then you will actually know what you are looking at, and may have a chance at finding something rare.

I agree the dot is not in the correct position for a Medium JR-6. It either matches a known variety or it doesn't. Comparing individual things with other types doesn't help, like looking at the dot position for a Large type when it's a Medium type. That may just be a mark or stain as I dont see the same possible second dot on the PCG$ AU55 or a cleaner MS64 JR-6 from HA here ... https://coins.ha.com/itm/bust-dimes/1830-10c-medium-10c-jr-6-r2-ms64-ngc-pcgs-38843-/a/1278-3387.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515

I am still running into that on quite a few coins still on my list, like people continue to have pandemic slush funds to burn.

If it's a raised area next to the mark I would agree that's likely just a die chip. Not considered an error as chips are common with a very used die. Curious that of the 3 repunched mintmarks listed on NGC's VarietyPlus only RPM-001 seems significant.

NGC VarietyPlus as suggested is a great source for coin varieties. If it is not matching known varieties it also could be a counterfeit, which is more likely than a new variety.

I would prefer just a protected BU grade ASE certified by a bullion/coin dealer like the attached at about half that ridiculous price for what is just a bullion coin, which shouldn't be in a slab anyway. That "First T2 Production" just means it was one of the initial batch of 200,000 ASEs. Add that to all the other useless bullion slab label marketing designations, which by now are actually going for little more than a certified raw BU grade ASE ... https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-grading/designations/ The real hoohaa was about the last T1 coin struck and the first T2 coin struck, which I think were both around high 5 figures when first auctioned. I'm sure that honeymoon has worn off by now. Last T1 and First T2 ASE NGC Webpage I wonder if either of those two coins were re-sold?

@Travsobeast From this post, and numerous other recent posts with ordinary couch coins thought to possibly be rare and valuable errors or varieties, it seems you have been duped by clueless tubers with click-bait vids claiming you could get rich from pocket change if you just keep watching all of their videos. It seems this includes the false belief you can simply sort through your pocket change and possibly find a very rare proof dime worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. It appears you are just fooling yourself that the "JS" designer initials on the 1975 dime you have matches the rare dime, but not the common business strike dimes. The dies for both the 1975-S 10C proof (of which two are known to have no "S" mark) and 1975 (P) 10C business strike coins which have no mint marks were both produced in Philadelphia from the same master design, which included the "JS" designers initials, by just adding an "S" mint mark to a normal "P" mint die which had no mark, and then preparing it. That is why occasionally the mint mark was inadvertently left off dies produced in Philly for some older coins intended for another mint, and would only be discovered in San Francisco (thus the "S" mark) after striking a few coins and examining them. So there are a handful of "No S Mark" coins where this happened when initially striking some of the coins. See the link in Sandon's post above about the 1975 "No S" mark proof dimes which discusses this. Any minor apparent variations in the "JS" initials between the various mints and strikes, particularly for circulated coins, most certainly are due to just differences in die deterioration or coin wear, stains, shadows and hits. If you look at the initials on certified examples of various mint state strikes for 1975 dimes at the following links you should be able to see this for yourself. Also see the attached screenshot showing an example comparison of the initials on your coin with a sample of various strikes. Regardless, the designer initials are not a variety die indicator for the rare no mark coins. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1975-10c/images/5147 https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1975-s-10c/images/5253 https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1975-10c-no-s/5254 It seems like you need to start over from the beginning learning about coin collecting, as well as errors and varieties, with more reputable sources you can find links to on this forum.

I also sometimes go through rolls of half dollars, mostly looking for transitional off-metal errors, and very rarely find any silvers. I assume you also look at the edges first stacked to see if anything stands out..

See the following links to look up doubled die coins with any die indicators, as well as the attached to help identify worthless machine doubling. https://doubleddie.com/ http://varietyvista.com/

The pics are out of order. From a quick review they look legit to me, with the 1856-O 50C in the F+ to VF grade range and the 1854 (P) 50C in the VG+ to F grade range. P.S. I have found it's useful to splice together aligned and cropped images of both sides with a free app like Paint, which also helps avoiding mixing up corresponding reverses when handling multiple similar coins. Attached is an example for an 1856-O 50C graded VF-25 from CoinFacts.

Technically correct using the vernacular of the mint, but the only thing that sticks in my side is when it's mint state, which then becomes an "uncirculated circulation strike" ... an apparent oxymoron. P.S. Many consider that "circulation strike" and "business strike" are interchangeable as circulation issue coins are those intended for use in commerce or business. This includes PCG$ and NGS in their discussion on grading. For example NGC states: "Circulation issues, which are also called “business strikes,” are coins that are made for commerce" ... https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/8602/learn-grading-hierarchy-of-grades-designations-and-strike-characters/

Looks like a weak strike for the obverse of the first one, and that 1954-S 1C looks like a common "BIE" variety with a chip between the letters. Sandon started a topic on the BIE cents ,,, https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/429124-bie-or-libierty-lincoln-cents/ Don't feel too bad, I have been roll hunting quarters and sifting through pocket change forever and have not found anything significant.

If you are curious if a coin is proof or proof-like hold a #2 pencil up to it and see if you can read the pencil lettering in the fields. Thanks to @J P M for this old-school trick.