EagleRJO

I don't see any consistent difference in vertical vs horizontal elements I would expect to see from a doubled die that was worn. It appears some of the elements have simply been flattened out due to circulation.

I don't see any doubling, so maybe you could point out where you see that. In any event it doesn't match the known doubled die for a 1917 cent shown at the following links. And I think the terms used for doubling are the same thing. http://doubleddie.com/288601.html https://www.lincolncentresource.com/doubledies/1917ddo1.html

Attached is a pic for a complete 1980 mint set, with the blue trim cello sheet having the 6 Philly coins and the red trim cello sheet like the one you posted having the 7 D & S coins with two SBA's (one D and one S). You can find complete sets with both sheets and the envelope for under $10.

I believe you have to be a dealer submitting a sealed and marked container. But how would that be meaningful as you would lose money doing that.

I meant to keep the annual sets in the OGP without submitting them. And it looks like the TPGs already offer that attribute service for sets, although I don't really see a significant demand for just that. https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/6225/NGC-US-Mint-Set-Attributions/

It may also be just a die that is a lite worn with some chips at the JFM initials. No added value.

NGC already does that for sets, or for individual set coins sometimes with a special label. But I would just keep it in the OPG.

You can clearly see that the rim and edge has taken an off center hit which has dented the coin edge closer to the reverse and mashed together several denticles on the reverse. This would not necessarily result in damage to the obverse. There would be no reason to measure anything with a micrometer. This is not an error coin or worth any premium or more of your time investigating. It's just post-mint impact damage which did not occur at the mint. no matter exactly what the cause was.

I agree the ask price for the error coin does seem way out of line. And it's really pointless to banter about lists the op didn't ask about.

You can see where a heavy hit on the edge has pushed in the rim after it left the mint.

Why are you guys bantering about lists as the op was just interested in asking about an error coin which is rare by definition.

That's a nice error coin, but not worth $3k imo. Let me guess it's for sale on ebay which often has ridiculous pricing. It's likely a one-off error but you might find similar comps at various auction sites.

I agree it's a large date. Usually you just have to look at the shape of the "2" and how close it is to the rim.

Maybe you could point out where Sandon was incorrect, as I'm not seeing that. He was discussing NGC's FB designation for Mercury dimes and FT designation for Roosevelt dimes, such as the op's coin, and then stated PCG$ standards may be different. Seems correct to me, so what part was wrong?

There are a few recent topics on this if you search the forum, but I agree Excel is one of the best options as there is not much in terms of good software to catalog collections that you can't pretty much do yourself. Excel is actually pretty easy and intuitive if you just watch a few tutorials and play around with it for a while. @cobymordet posted a good example which is similar to one I have, except I add where I purchased the coin and don't include value since that changes over time. I also imbed or link pictures. You can also use different tabs to organize it as you see fit with for example All, Gold, Morgans, Half Dollars, Mint Sets, etc. Another option to consider is creating a Custom Registry Set which some members use to catalog collections. However, I found this to be a little clunky, since I have mostly raw coins. and didn't go that route. https://coins.www.collectors-society.com/wcm/CoinCustomSetListing.aspx

I would take a more cautious position on this as fairly knowledgeable collectors and even some dealers have been fooled by fake gold coins produced in the Middle East during the 1960s and 1970s in response to FDR's Great Government Gold Heist. Even though they are made with somewhat inferior gold and a weaker strike that often has some telltale die transfer or tool marks, they can be extremely deceptive and dominate top counterfeit lists. Particularly gold Indian Head half eagles and quarter eagles like on NGCs top 50 counterfeit list ... https://www.ngccoin.com/resources/counterfeit-detection/top/united-states/ So I would recommend that ANY gold coin other than modern gold bullion coins from and guaranteed by a reputable bullion dealer (e.g. Apmex or JD, and the "Mint Direct" coins in particular) should be slabbed by a TPG. https://www.apmex.com/mintdirect

I am a little confused by this as bullion coins and collectible coins are really two different things in my mind. I am a coin collector but also buy gold/silver bullion bars and coins as noted above. So for me the American Gold Eagle coins, or possibly Indian Heads or Saints in an AU grade, are a good middle ground with having gold bullion that looks really nice as a collector if that is what you mean. Note that many don't consider gold coins in a circulated AU or lower grade as "collectible" coins. If you want a collectible gold coin, such as the Indian Heads in an MS grade, you are no longer really buying it as bullion and will pay a significant premium above spot for them. And I agree that anything other than modern gold bullion coins from and certified by a reputable bullion dealer should be slabbed as they are one of the most counterfeited coins.

You might look at the American Gold Eagle (AGE) bullion coins as a good mix of the two. I like the way they look, with a better strike than older pieces, and they are not just a slab of gold. I buy the 1-ounce gold coins, but they have smaller ones like the attached $10 1/4-ounce AGE (as well as a similar $5 1/10-ounce AGE). As Mike said they are more of a bullion coin, but so are the older ones as they were originally intended to just represent a certain dollar amount. But I wouldn't consider the American Gold Eagles as collectable coins. Beyond that I am partial to the earlier date Indian Head gold pieces, with good availability in general, but they go for a little more in a collectible MS grade so you would have to settle for less gold.

You can check these sites to look up markers or indicators to look for with the coin in-hand. http://varietyvista.com/ https://doubleddie.com/

Good analysis by Bob which I agree with. Don't send the coin in to a TPG.

In Coin Explorer there are often just a few registry set examples instead of a full complement of various grades, like with a recent topic about a 1794 Flowing Hair Dollar.

Are there any plans to add images of various grades to Coin Explorer, similar to CoinFacts? As an NGC member I would prefer to reference in-house resources.

If you want to see why ppl are saying it's not genuine check out images of legit coins in various grades at the following link. CoinFacts can be used to look up any US coin. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1794-1/6851

WOW, I guess you found a good one and the secret sauce to keep her happy, like remembering your anniversary and buying her stuff such as those British coins occasionally. 😉 Btw what are you guys planning for the 50th anniversary? That's a big one! And lucky for her it's the "Gold" anniversary.

Perhaps the TPG considered these a result of a weak strike or worn die, which can sometimes be mistaken for wear. https://www.pcgs.com/News/tips-from-the-pcgs-grading-room-december-2012/ https://www.numismaticnews.net/collecting-101/weak-strike-or-worn-die