EagleRJO

Since one of my favorite series I collect are circulated Morgan silver dollars it would have to be a decent 1893-S Morgan. About the cost of a new car even in a circulated grade that would still fit in the collection. Forget about one in mint state or the even more elusive 1895 (P) Proof Morgan which costs the equivalent of a small house to acquire. I could probably swing a bottom end grade 1893-S to finish my all date and mark circulated Morgan collection. But I just don't think I would be happy with that or think it would fit with all the other coins generally in the XF to BU range. Maybe one day if I hit the lottery or I'm retired with some extra cash I will fill that collection hole.

Thanks for posting the additional pics of that 1874 3CN Sandon. Those more clearly show a smooth indentation as described that would not result from a planchet flaw that flaked off. Also, it no longer appears that there was a slight undercut of the coronet tip as mentioned in the other thread, and the appearance of that as well as an uneven indentation surface were likely just the result of the lighting and picture angles. Therefore it is likely a struck through error. Due to the irregular outline the only thing I can come up with is that a rounded piece or corner of a small metal machine part broke off somewhere in the mint and ended up with the irregular fracture plane flatwise on the obverse die when the coin was struck. Btw, nice collection of 3CN's.

Attached is a pic of a Bronze 1943-S 1C graded MS63 BN.

Yes, a very interesting collecting style which has an impact on the lower end prices sometimes. With some coins I was following or bidding on I sometimes saw a jump upwards in prices at the lowest end of the available grades which completely baffled me until I found out about "low ball" sets. I suspected you had this coin in-hand as the available pics didn't seem conclusive or appeared counterintuitive to a strike through, and you are rarely off base when opining definitively. I am still pondering what could be struck through to produce a smooth depression in that shape, and I assume the appearance that the depressed area slightly encompases the coronet point is just an optical illusion or more shadows. Perhaps a piece of rounded metal from the machines broke off and ended up with the broken surface flatwise against the obverse [anvil?] die and with the edge right at the tip of the coronet?

I have seen this same comment in several recent threads now about potentially damaged coins. Are you looking to buy these coins, or simply wondering if the coins are being offered for sale? Is that 1874 3CN a coin you purchased and have in-hand? Even the high resolution pics from the SB listing archives and NGC certification are not clear if it's a completely smooth depression and seem to show some unevenness at the bottom, although this could just be shadows. And it appears to be a very unusual jagged shape for which I can't imagine what ended up on the dies that could have been struck through to produce a completely smooth base of that shape and which didn't have any apparent effect on the point of the coronet. More out of curiosity as it's strangely not labeled by NGC as having an error, and either a struck-through or planchet flaw would both be mint errors. https://auctions.stacksbowers.com/lots/view/3-11ADMA/1874-nickel-three-cent-piece-ms-64-ngc https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/1976472-001/64/

Sandon et al. gave some very good advice about counterfeits, which can be very difficult to detect sometimes. You would have to spend countless hours learning about particular coins, the counterfeits of those coins and die indicators as well as spend significant amounts of time examining coins. You would also need die variety references, tools more advanced collectors have, and methods for determining the specific gravity of coins. And just looking at pictures of coins is sometimes not sufficient to really tell if a particular coin may be a counterfeit. So that is a decision each collector needs to make based on their collecting style and aptitude for learning about counterfeits. And newer collectors or those not willing to accept some risk should just stick with coins already certified, particularly for more valuable coins. By "special equipment" I assume you are referring to a very accurate scale, magnifying loupes, calipers, a magnet, a scope and things needed to determine SG which more serious collectors should have anyway.

NGC VarietyPlus only lists doubled dies they will attribute, and the one I noted is minor as I think many of the modern doubled dies are. I usually check both VarietyVista.com and DoubledDie.com as between them you can usually find any listed DD.

The is a DDO for the 2000-P NH 25C, but it just involves doubling at the ear not the lettering. http://doubleddie.com/2513337.html

They are not already on your ignore list?

What specifically are you thinking may not be damage? Posting cropped full pics of each side in focus is often needed to give complete answers. See the following topic, which also has info on damage vs error and variety coins. https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/430263-basic-resources-glossary/

What burns my britches are all the coins on ebay with machine doubling claimed to be true doubled die coins. Very insidious. https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/5688/Double-Dies-vs-Machine-Doubling/

Yes, it was likely the very rapid payment of those massive war reparations to Prussia, completed near the end of 1873 about 2 years ahead of schedule, combined with economic boom at that time which significantly increased holdings by more wealthy people that could be stashed. Then the Long Depression and WWI followed. It's very interesting how world events can have an impact on coin collecting.

I think Mike may be right. It is known that in times of war commoners in Europe often melted down circulating precious metal coins to turn them into objects that could be more readily hidden if invading soldiers started pillaging. So it's possible that around the start of WWI in 1914 that many of the 1890-1912 Wilhelm-II coins in circulation at that time were melted down by commoners to stash the metal. Whereas there may have been a considerable number of the 1872-1873 Wilhelm-I coins already stashed in large quantities by more wealthy people, particularly from massive reparations payments in Prussia and economic boom during that period, who could more readily move them if needed or possibly already have them in various vaults. That is apparently why I have had difficulty finding certain German silver coins that I liked in circulation from around both WWI and WWII for a reasonable price, and have passed on a few because of that.

It's hard to tell if the op's coin shows raised metal around the hit since the pics are blurry, but there clearly is a corresponding dent on the opposite side of the coin indicative of post mint damage. On that nickel 1874 three cent piece the depressed area looks a little jagged and seems to go slightly under the point of the coronet, so perhaps that could that be a planchet flaw with a small area that chipped off. It gets a little blurry when I zoom in.

They have this thing on the internet called Kindle and Internet Archive.

Looks like there are some dings and nicks, but the mushy appearance combined with the blisters on a clad coin are classic signs of heat damage.

If you just want one off center strike error something like the attached 2000 cent might work if you could scoop one for around $10 or so. Reasonable condition with a decent offset, and the date is still fully visible. No need to authenticate really as it's pretty obvious what happened.

Particularly on eBay unless it's a reputable dealer like LCR Coin, Apmex, or Northeast who also have a storefront there. I can’t count the number of times I have seen posts by people here and elsewhere who buy something from a "dealer" on eBay only to find out it's not what was represented or for an outrageous price.

As noted error and variety coins is a niche area of collecting that is very subjective based on what you like. I find them very interesting and collect some, but I wouldn't say it's a specialty area I focus my collection on. Significant error coins are very difficult to find in circulation, usually have to be purchased, and can be expensive for very prominent and unusual ones. Preferably buy slabbed ones as there are countless fakes and coins misrepresented as errors being offered for sale particularly on sites like ebay. I would first read up on coins in general (see pinned topics at the top of this sub-forum) as well as the coin production process (errors only occur during production), and read up on errors from reputable sites such as error-ref.com. Forget YouTube. Also read articles from TPG sites (e.g. https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/7765/learn-grading-mint-errors-part-1/) and other articles like the following on clipped planchet errors (which discusses the "Blakesley Effect" noted). I would also research prices for sold error coins (not list prices) on auction house sites and ebay, and possibly obtain a recent copy of the attached price guide for mint errors book for some ballpark pricing. https://www.error-ref.com/ https://www.australian-coins.com/error-coins/how-to-determine-if-a-clipped-planchet-error-is-real/ Note that with off-center strikes the more desireable and valuable ones have a large offset, but one where the date and mark are still visible to identify the coin, like the attached.

The known PRM's for a 1943-D 1C can be found at the following link ... http://www.varietyvista.com/02a LC RPMs Vol 1/RPMs 1943D.htm The coin is worn with environmental damage so I don't think you would really be able to clearly see signs of a mark being re-punched, let alone the other indicators needed to attribute that. What you highlighted in red would be for a RPM-001 FS-501 like the attached. Perhaps you saw this RPM somewhere and mistook a stain or schmutz for a part of the RRM. As Greenstang noted the mint mark on your coin is too high up in order to be a match with the FS-501.

I'm calling it. Troll.

Agreed it looks like coin wrapper machine damage. See the following link with a few that look almost exactly like this. https://www.coincommunity.com/errors/wrapping-machine-damage.asp

Yea, the 1958 cent is a pretty good change find considering it's been in circulation for more than half a century.

The color would be Brown (BN) like the attached, not Red (RD) which is a brighter copper color like the one Powermad posted. And I agree it's a spender.

While it may look a little like a dryer coin with the mushy appearance, the significantly lower weight (3.5g vs. 5.0g spec) would suggest an acid that has eaten away some of the metal.