EagleRJO

I think your off-topic posts like these trying to promote your shady Etsy/eBay raw coin flipping are becoming very disruptive to people like the OP actually trying to learn, and I wish @Administrator would do something about that.

Then you might find "Hobo Nickels" or "Potty Dollars" interesting in addition to the others referenced.

Ignore this. Swing and miss again on a topic about die chips. A die chip if from when a small piece of a metal die breaks off. Then when a coin is struck the planchet metal flows into the void of the die left by the chip, creating a raised area on a coin. When a larger piece of a die breaks off near and including a rim they are called "cuds". https://www.error-ref.com/die-chips/ https://www.error-ref.com/cuds/

On a topic about scopes and loupes, with a link to his garbage coin topic.

Well said @Sandon . Some less experienced collectors or laypeople see $$$ when they read about the high MS grade prices and then look at their coins, not realizing that there is a vast difference in low MS or AU (with potential rub marks) grade coins like the op's and the very top grades like an MS69 here.

I second that statement! I am still trying to figure out why dprince doesn't just lurk and learn more for a while instead of singlehandedly destroying his own reputation. @KoyMihn I think you need to put away the scope as it's leading you down rabbit holes. There is another recent topic on use of scopes you should read. https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/431892-what-is-a-good-coin-microscope-compatible-to-a-windowspc-wi-fi-or-bluetooth/

I don't see any reason to ditch the 10x most collectors use simply because professional coin graders, who need less magnification to see certain things and prefer to see the whole coin with a loupe for speed, use a lower level of magnification. And if you get that good you would see more imperfections so it would be grading conservatively. And one of the reasons I use a mag glass is that looking at larger coins like silver dollars at 10x I can still see the whole coin. https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-grading/grading-process/ngc-grading-process.aspx https://www.pcgs.com/news/tools-of-a-professional-coin-grader https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/1036/high-magnification/

With the reeding intact it's not broadstruck or rolled edges, so no need to measure anything. Just a little more wear at the rims than I would have expected. But it is silver.

If the edges were rolled down it would likely get larger and damage the reeding. Is the reeding at the edge intact, and can you measure the average diameter to 0.1mm? It doesn't look broadstruck, but may have been struck on a planchet without a proper rim from the upsetting machine, possibly from a slightly undersized blank being fed into that machine. A proper rim is there in part to protect against that type of wear.

I think you are misattributing varieties again, including the 1891 dime. While it's just based on a photo and it's blurry, it only looks like a common die chip at the inner bottom loop of the "9" that doesn't match the die markers doing a propper comparison. As advised numerous times now I think you need to start over from scratch with how you are doing authentication and variety attributions. But it seems like you are not good at accepting other opinions or advice, and you have the coins in hand. So maybe you should submit it to prove us wrong.

The consensus generally is that 10x is the max for error and variety identification and grading, and I think the TPGs use less. While many use a 10x loupe, I prefer a 10x magnifying glass with LED lights, which I can set up like a stand to quickly go through coins while roll hunting. I am on my second one it gets so much use, and couldn't imagine going back to the 10x loupe I was using before. Plus with errors, collectors like to be able to see the error even without magnification, and if you need a scope to see the error it's likely not worth much if at all. I also think using scopes leads many newer error hunters astray. I do have a 40x loupe and a scope I use for counterfeit detection and variety attribution, which I think is really the only legitimate uses for that level of magnification. Even then it is more for confirmation or markers, and not for identifying the error or variety. For more info on coin collecting tools see the following article ... https://www.pcgs.com/news/tools-of-a-professional-coin-grader

That is only at a slight angle that may not clearly show the height of doubling per the infographic I posted above. You really need to start with looking at the edge and turn the coin in your hand while viewing it with at least a 10x mag glass or loupe. That is one of the many disadvantages of using a scope to view coins, along with seeing too many minor imperfections and not being able to see cartwheeling from luster.

https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/dollars/early-dollars-1794-1804/16852/1795-flowing-hair-1-ms/

I would tend to agree the doubling appears step or shelf like which would indicate machine doubling. If you look at the doubling at an angle you should be able to distinguish that.

Is it really surprising he doesn't get that a rare variety for a old half dollar has nothing to do with a completely different coin that the op is asking about, which is a Morgan silver dollar where there is no variety that doesn't have a denomination.

A convenience store like 7-11 one or two at a time.

Oh boy, a discussion of a very common modern 1976-D clad coin that may or may not be out of spec possibly being a counterfeit, based in part on bowling tournament requirements. I am trying real hard to ignore posts like these, as the op should do. An out of weight spec modern clad coin, if that is even the case here, would almost certainly be from an out of spec blank coil at the mint.

There are people who collect old antique buttons, but it would really be a shot in the dark unless they were from a recognized maker which they don't appear to be. So the dealer offering melt value to possibly sell the buttons as a precious metal novelty item makes sense to me. About the original medal, it may have legitimate sentimental value to either you or your wife since it was from your father-in-law. I still have letters that were in my fathers files which are completely worthless to anyone other than me. But if he had a large collection where you are just selecting a handful of coins to keep I don't know if a modern commemorative bullion medal from a year they went nuts with those would be in the category of being a "keeper".

What is the weight compared to the mint spec of 5.67g with a tolerance of 0.23g? The edge reeding seems intact, so it can't be broadstruck. It may just be a coin that is slightly out of round with a planchet that was punched from a thinner than normal portion of a coil. These would be considered minor with no added value.

So is the doubling shelf-like, or lower than the primary character, as it appears in the photos?

Doesn't sound like super rare coins, and if they were made into buttons even real coins would be damaged and essentially bullion.

Yes. But I think there are enough people who see the disinformation and call it out, along with the shady Etsy/ebay raw coin flipping. So he is rapidly just approaching class clown status that no one will take seriously, even potentially gullible new collectors which seems to be his target. I don't think I have ever seen anyone so intent on ruining their own reputation.

You can only Edit and/or Hide your own posts. If you decided to post the question in a different area initially you could have edited it to read say "Deleted - Question Reposted in Newbie Section", or something similar. Once people start responding I would just leave it, or ask an Admistator (see the "Ask NGC/NCS" section) to move the whole topic. I can't recall an entire topic being deleted, which would likely only be done if the entire thing was offensive, and I think threads stay open for comment quite a while.