EagleRJO

I'm not that familiar with the newer horizontal presses, but wouldn't the collar on those presses keep the coin in place to be similarly struck by a loose die that may be both horizontally misaligned and rotated. P.S. Of the possibilities you mentioned I think it would have to be a combination of a partial or straight clipped end of coil punch and tapered blank to account for both the missing rim portions and weakly struck areas, also combined with rotated dies anyway. All of those combined together just doesn't seem very likely vs just rotated and tilted dies. And since dies can still become loose in the chucks and rotate with the horizontal coin presses, it actually seems more likely that those horizontal dies would then also tip or tilt downward due to gravity.

I don't see any doubling, which I think is where Greenstang was going, unless it's just the images posted. It just looks like an old and worn cent. I will give you a little more info here that may apply to other coins you have questions about. For this coin, and other coins where you think there might be doubling, see the attached infographic to help you identify various forms of doubling having the coin in-hand. Sometimes you have to tilt the coin at an angle to see if any doubling is at the same level (true hub doubling), or lower with a step/shelf like appearance which is common machine doubling from the strike or die deterioration with no added value. Doubled die coins with true hub doubling are the only ones that may have added value. If you do see some indications of true hub doubling with the coin in-hand, you can then go to sites like DoubledDie.com or VarietyVista.com to see if it matches a known DD. The doubleddie.com site in particular also has some very good info on "Doubled Dies" and "Worthless Doubling" if you click on those links in the left hand menu. Keep in mind that those sites pretty much lists almost all the known doubled die coins, and not necessarily ones that are significant enough be be attributed by a TPG like NGC or have any extra value. NGC lists coins with varieties that they will attribute (i.e. add to a label if it can be identified) at the following VarietyPlus link ... https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/united-states/ ... and the following webpage for your 1946-D 1C ... https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/united-states/cents/lincoln-cents-wheat-reverse-1909-1958/?page=1

I assume you roll hunt like me and some others who periodically come across coins struck with minor die chips and cracks from overused dies. Not as bad as it was long ago, but still I like a frugal government that gets good coin mileage and beats the snot out of dies.

To me it looks like it could be a strike from loose dies, with a combination of vertically misaligned (tilted) and rotated dies. There are very weak areas on both sides of the dime, particularly at the rims, which might line up if the dies also rotated when they worked loose to come out of vertical alignment. I can imagine this happening, and would be similar to the attached combination tilted/rotated die coin shown on the error-ref.com site. https://www.error-ref.com/vertical-misaligned-die-error-tilted-die-error/ https://www.error-ref.com/rotated_die_error/

Bulk posts rarely seem to work out and often get confusing, with limited useful information. Plus learning how to evaluate coins yourself, starting with the references Sandon posted above, is always the best option in my mind if you have a good number of coins. Then you can always post individual coin topics where there is a question or you just want another opinion. That's a good suggestion just to get started, and may help in evaluating other coins yourself.

No, see the following NGC link for melt values. Also, dealers are usually only willing to pay a little under melt value (bid price) and will sell for around or a little over melt value (ask price), possibly with a discount or markup for a small amount or single coin. https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/coin-melt-values.aspx

You are right that's not the classic "poor man's double [sic] die" which is also a 1955 cent with less doubling from loose and worn dies during the strike, compared to the true 1955 DDO 1C created from a misaligned or rotated second press during hubbing of working dies. Also it is "doubled die" and not "double die". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1955_doubled_die_cent https://www.pcgs.com/news/its-doubled-die Concerning the coin production process and doubling there is some really good info at the following links. How Dies are Made: https://doubleddie.com/58201.html Doubled Dies: https://doubleddie.com/58222.html Worthless Machine Doubling: https://doubleddie.com/144801.html

Good advice.

The 1955 DDO Lincoln Cent is one of the most popular and valuable varieties, with over a dozen known counterfeits and little to no chance of finding one in the wild. That looks like an archived image from a less well known auction company for coins, so I would suspect a counterfeit or you are being trolled thinking you will drool over it.

You might have been thinking about a common "BIE" variety Lincoln cent discussed here ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/429124-bie-or-libierty-lincoln-cents/ But that's not a small raised area in "Liberty" from a die chip. It appears to just be an indentation from a gouge after it left the mint, which is just damage without any added value.

Who knows, maybe the monastic disciples misread the religious signs and visions with you being the actual reincarnated prior Dalai Lama, which is only discovered when you have a spiritually enlightening epiphany, become a Buddhist, immigrate to Tibet, join the Yellow Hats, and .......... Okay, it's zero. I am sorry about the inaccurate and misleading reply received from dprince that may suggest your coin is anything other than a badly damaged regular cent. Please completely disregard that post, and hopefully @Administrator will eventually do something about his posts. There is absolutely no way that coin is a "wrong planchet" error from possibly being struck on a dime blank since it's the wrong color and size, as well as weighing too much for that error. It also in not any other type of transitional error. There is also no way that's the "experimental" strike cent from around that period which was the previous year and on an aluminum planchet, or that it should be submitted to a grading company for "authentication". Even if that was an accurate weight of an undamaged coin, indicating a blank possibly punched from a slightly thinner part of a coil, there would be no significant added value to collectors with just a waste of your money. You have what is referred to as a "parking lot coin" which has been repeatedly run over scraping off some of the soft copper. Attached is one of my parking lot finds in my "Good, Bad and Ugly" short set that weighs about the same as your coin. Trust me, it will never be submitted for "authentication".

Too funny Bill. Poor TJ would have gotten his knee-breeches wet!

Of course it's not a variety as that is likely another shameless indirect plug to his shady raw coin variety Etsy/eBay coin flipping, many with misattributed varieties. He just keeps adding on "variety" even when it has nothing to do with the topic. I guess he thinks people won't notice that, and pointing out continuous inconsistencies to him is like talking to a rock. I think someone else also noticed he is referring back to NGC concerning his coin "varieties" to give himself credibility. I really hope @Administrator will eventually do something about this.

That is pretty cool to see a bunch of coins with a progressive die crack.

Hey Mike, I might go with limited luster with coins struck from "fresh" dies, but for MS coins it should still be there. My understanding is flow lines and luster develop even with fresh dies as the metal from the planchet does move or flow into incuse areas of the die to produce the raised portions of the coin, particularly near the center. I haven't noticed or read about "off-center" luster, but perhaps that is something related to coins struck with fresh dies which may have disturbed flow lines. If you do notice that again or see any references about that I would find it interesting.

Yea, those are super expensive even in G grades, so I skipped it. NGC VarietyPlus lists a number of the more significant attributed ones to compare with the coin in-hand, but not a complete die listing like in Parsley's book.

Bill you likely already know this but ignore these comments. NGC lists 1,313 die varieties for half dollars.

The cracks do not appear to be the same, as the one on the obverse is much longer. So I would agree with JPM that it's likely a plating crack. Clad cents from the 1980's in particular have significant plating issues so the cracks don't surprise me, and it may have just been something related to the strike in the cracked areas which created a weakness in the plating there.

For a complete half dollar type set I would follow the listings in a recognized registry set as a guide, such as the NGC Registry set which has 21 different half dollar types (for the 8 basic Flowing Hair thru Kennedy half dollar designs). Note that the PCG$ half dollar type set has 20 different coins as it's a circulation strike set so it doesn't include the 1992-Present "S" mark silver half dollars. https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive/united-states/type-sets/232/definition/ https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/denomination-type-sets/denomination-type-sets/half-dollar-type-set-circulation-strikes-1794-present/composition/3692 I also collect half dollars, particularly certain varieties I find interesting, and have encountered many counterfeit older raw coins on sites like Etsy/eBay, even for less valuable ones. So be very careful as other than a 1794-1836 die variety book by Parsley the references to properly authenticate these coins are pretty scattered. Also, I would double check that 1856 50C as a few things, like the date and wing notches, just don't seem right.

Some large collections of valuable older coins discovered are called a "hoard" with a name that describes something about it. You can get more info from a Google search.

Ignore this. All coins in a good mint state (MS) condition will exhibit the "cartwheel effect" from luster. If not there is either wear or an impairment that has broken the luster. [He didn't even read the article he linked. ]

I agree. I would also be willing to see if I can assist but don't feel comfortable accessing remote folders. Also, for clarity you may want to start a separate thread for each coin. Then it's clear what comments are referencing. Maybe starting with ones you really would like help with.

Unfortunately this naturally does happen sometimes where there are issues which hide a prior cleaning which likely couldn't be discovered without attempting to conserve the coin. I'm sorry you also experienced that as I can imagine it's disappointing. NGC and others can only attempt to conserve a coin, and there is usually no way to know the outcome in advance which should have been clear. Once a coin has been cleaned in the past there is no way to undo the damage done ... https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/1337/Why-Cleaned-Coins-Cannot-Be-Uncleaned/

I agree with others that the first thing to do is figure out a rough grade yourself and then determine if it's worth submitting based on your reason for doing that. For the flips I would use the ones sold on the Wizard Coin Supply site as referenced. As far as labels and containers you can get them from an office supply store or shipping company like FedEx. Then go to the following link for submittal instructions ... https://www.ngccoin.com/submit/how-to-submit/

Ignore any clueless references to die varieties for your coin, which looks like a 1979-D SBA $1 coin, with a "D" mintmark indicative of the coin coming from the Denver mint by the way, where there are no major or valuable varieties. You can also ignore any replies relative to a 1979-P $1 some have incorrectly referenced following the initial post, where at least the op indicated they are a newer collector.