J P M

On 10/29/2023 at 8:37 AM, edhalbrook said:

Shame you are done. I love your nickels hunt. I also get nickels and roll hunt. Got a 1959 pretty clean one today. Actually has steps A little tiny dent on two steps but otherwise you can see them all. Also got a 1940 s and a 1941. I get about 10 rolls a week. Trying to find a Henning nickel. Got a Dansco book with only BU's and a Whitman 38 - 64 circulated going. Also a couple of Harris ones. Coin roll hunting I'm having a hard time finding the 2004 P Peace and 1975 nickel.  

What book you starting next? 

I will never be done per say. I still roll hunt and save all my BU coins in all the series . It is a life long hobby and it's not over yet. Ya never know there is always  a chance to find something a little different.

Many buy a classical minted coin thinking they can always sell it for bullion price. But then it is always worth a bit more than melt you say. Also you may fall in love with it and never sell it. If you buy a bullion coin that is it's intent. You may also fall in love with it but maybe not as much that you can't part with it .

On 10/28/2023 at 11:34 AM, RWB said:

But don't pay for the holder - that's someone else's loss, don't make it yours.

I like buying holders other people have paid for. That way I am only paying for the coin inside the holder. 

On 10/28/2023 at 6:06 PM, dprince1138 said:

Here is a grading reference that I have used.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheldon_coin_grading_scale

I grade my coins as I sell them on ebay.

Also, here are the documents that I use for recommended value and known varieties.

NGC Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC

United States Categories | VarietyPlus® | NGC

Here are methods to determine counterfeit silver coins.

(I have a magnet and a sensitive scale)

Fake Silver Coins: 14 Ways to Spot Counterfeits - Silver Coins

 

I grade my coins as I sell them ? What does that mean?  If it passes the 14 ways test is it ok to sell it ? I am so confused 

On 10/28/2023 at 6:38 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

If the sole purpose of this forum becomes pre screen grading of millions of uneducated persons coins the forum will become undesirable and unusable.

It happens every day. Most of us try to help when we can so that new people have a bit of a chance. I agree everyone must be there own advocate in this hobby but talking to numismatics with years of experience is a good place to start.  

On 10/28/2023 at 12:04 PM, powermad5000 said:

I am wondering if in part this goes back to an earlier discussion started by @Lem E about the striking quality between P and D, also evidenced in my post about the Vegas cash machine nickel. Maybe @J P M it is not a question of raw mintage number but of it just being harder to find higher quality P strikes and then also combining this with some of the current unexplained "overbidding" which is still going on for over two to three years now. I was doing some looking at different coin types for sale the other day and noticed that some certain types seem to be going for over price guide figures (was looking out of curiosity at the Lincoln cent 4 cent series and noted that Professional Life seemed to be going at reasonable prices, but Presidency was running high). All I can guess is certain types combined with mintmark are harder to find in good grades (seems P is the more difficult to find).

I have always found Denver coins to be a better strike and almost proof like many times. Even though the Denver dies for years were made at Philly they were better looking ? I think it is as Lem said Not as many of these coins are graded high and also people are looking for the DD ones. Many times it is the Denver coin that is the hard to find coin . Supply and demand is what it is and some is and some ain't.   

On 10/28/2023 at 10:11 AM, edhalbrook said:

Would this be the same nickel? I mean if you pulled it from a uncirculated set and all? I like collecting nickels. My Dansco book only goes to 2000 though. 

That would be a mint set. I do not pull sets apart for books or folders I only pick roll hunted coins for that. For my collections of graded coins I buy coins other people paid to have graded it's cheaper that way. 

It looks to be stained. It may have a die crack on the obverse but it is hard to tell from the photo and would not be worth a premium due to the coins condition.  

On 10/27/2023 at 5:57 PM, Lem E said:

I don’t think the Philly coins came out of the grading room very well and then people are probably looking for the DDO as well. The Denver coins are easier to find in higher grades. I still don’t have a P Handshake example yet. 

Yes, I find some coins are just a mystery why they bid the way they do. I just don't get it. 67 and 68s are out there but do not show up very often

Melt + 5% at most places I have seen. Yes, But in a holder it is always more

On 10/26/2023 at 3:19 PM, EagleRJO said:

I assume you also look at the edges first stacked to see if anything stands out.

Yes I always look there first. That is why the Greek coin stood out so much

The new cents do not have much copper on them and they are easily effected by the environment. Most of these new shield cents are not going to survive as long as the cents of the past.   

On 10/26/2023 at 1:32 AM, powermad5000 said:

I do find it amazing that 60's silver is still anywhere in circulation at all in any given condition. I on occasion will still get a silver dime or a silver quarter. Worn but still silver.

Yes It is not very common a find. I think the last generation of old time collectors are leaving there circulation finds to there family's and many are not interested in coin collecting. I live in a big retirement area so I find a lot of older change at the banks. This last roll was full of VF and F Bicentennial half's. I think this coin was most likely in a draw somewhere. It is AU and has mostly what I call tray scratches from normal handling on the fields on either side of the bust. The reverse is a close to MS in the fields due to all the raised devices.    

Your Dimes don't have a P but they are from Philadelphia. 

I would never buy raw coins but I see nothing wrong with buying graded coins on eBay. Most dealers have acceptable prices. Of course then there are the crazy ones.

Not a bad 40 % silver find in a roll tonight.

On 10/24/2023 at 4:57 PM, Henri Charriere said:

For the record... yesterday I regaled members on an item advertised on eBay for a flat $1,900., exclusive of sales tax and shipping costs.  

Today, simply for viewing the NGC-certified MS63 20-franc gold rooster, I was informed the seller had deducting a whopping 2% off his ridiculous selling price. [To fellow New Yorkers, that amounts to less than 2% of our sales tax. So now the selling price is $1,862.]

Moments ago, I checked MA-SHOPS listings and spotted the following which ought to put this matter in perspective:

For sale are each of the following 1906 gold roosters, all PCGS-certified, their respective grades and price in USD (exclusive of conversion fees from USD to euros).  You the reader can decide for yourself whether my assertion of exorbitant pricing is valid.

MS-62 - $471.22   MS-63- (unavailable)  MS-64 - 725.35. MS-65 - $947.74.

I steadfastly maintain an asking price of $1862., down in the past 24 hrs. from 1,900., is unwarranted.

 

Anyone can ask whatever price they want to sell a item. The trick is finding a buyer to pay that price. I think many items are overpriced so I wont be buying any of those thank you.

On 10/24/2023 at 5:05 PM, EagleRJO said:

That colorized $1 coin was pretty bad, but still not as horrible as some of the colorized ASEs I have seen.

Yes I have seen some of those red white and blue painted ASE's they are horrible and expensive. I saw one at antique store down south for $60 and said to the clerk that coins is only worth $32 brand new and now that it has all that junk on it I think it is worthless. 

A stain ?

On 10/23/2023 at 5:11 PM, EagleRJO said:

Submerging a coin in a very weak acidic solution like Coca Cola to remove more reactive surface organics, which "cleans" an old dirty coin, and submerging one in an acid strong enough to completely remove hard outer nickel-copper cladding, like concentrated sulfuric acid we played around with in chemistry lab, are two completely different things.  The latter eats away the very reactive copper core more readily, so it ends up starting to look like an "oreo cookie" even before the cladding is dissolved.

Attached is an acid damaged coin from this forum not that long ago, and another one from an error-ref.com link.  By the time the outer cladding is dissolved the reeded edge would be completely gone, and surfaces would be a little mushy with a granular appearance.  I think the second example shows this more clearly, and the op's coin doesn't look anything like the ones we played around with in chemistry lab.  So no dice.

https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/429415-quarter-damage-hard-to-explain-what-happened-to-this-guy-especially-on-the-edge/#comment-9826712

The only thing I can think of is a foreign copper coin blank got mixed in with some 25C blanks, or both outer cladding layers were not well bonded and peeled off after blanking.  But both of those seem extremely unlikely, which is why I think this one is strange, and the dealer just ended up punting the op's coin.

I would also contact Sullivan Numismatics, as others have suggested too, who are well known experts on error coins and have a number of them with missing clad layers listed on their website.  I don't think it can hurt, and if they and the expert you were referred to agree on what you have that would be a pretty definitive answer.

https://sullivannumismatics.com/search.php?page=1&section=product&search_query=missing+clad+layers

Nice research Eagle. Those coins are a mess. 

On 10/23/2023 at 8:46 AM, cobymordet said:

How long would a quarter have to remain submerged in coke to eat away half of the coin thickness?

Well that is kinda like asking how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop...............we may never know.

On 10/22/2023 at 5:11 PM, EagleRJO said:

This one really is a little strange, and I'm not so sure it's acid damaged as it doesn't have that really mushy and granular appearance, like the damaged clad ones that have been posted here or as shown on Error-Ref,com.  And how likely is it for an acid to completely eat away the outer cladding and not significantly damage the core when copper is more reactive.

Did the dealer who looked at the coin indicate why they thought you should show it to an expert instead of identifying it as damaged?  And have you tried contacting Sullivan Numismatics about the coin?

Acid Is my opinion . It may be grainy looking up close . This coin looks like a old( Coca Cola soak experiment)some of the old timers will know what I mean .Also the acid eats the coin uniformly and slow so most of the details remain but it gets smaller everywhere the edge had reeds so they will stay showing a bit but the whole rim is dissolving working toward the center.

On 10/23/2023 at 6:06 AM, Hoghead515 said:

I dont know if it its size or what but it took the rim from the quarter and widened it out quite a bit on the dime. Could have been caught in a different area of the dryer also. Im not sure exactly.

Yes some roll against the barrel and some get caught and spin with the barrel against the coin. it is easy for a coin to flip sideways and roll with the barrel. Just throw some change into those donation tornado holes at the store and watch it roll.