• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Woods020

Member: Seasoned Veteran
  • Posts

    2,062
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

Everything posted by Woods020

  1. Looks pretty full steppy to me. Another nice nickel Lem.
  2. Crop the pictures. A little cropping goes a long way to reducing file size.
  3. Welcome to the forum. I will include below a link to instructions on how to submit, and it also includes the costs in the tier section. Economy, the cheapest route, will be $22 for coins under $300 in value. It goes up from there. Don’t forget shipping costs to and from the grader. You want to insure them so it’s not cheap to ship. Depending on how many you submit, how quick you want them back, etc you realistically are looking at all in costs of say $40-$60 per coin. Again it’s variable depending on many factors. Before you submit if you will post clear, well focused pictures front and back of each coin you are considering many members here can give you opinions on if it’s worth it or not and a potential grade. General rule is unless a graded coin is worth say $200 or more it isn’t worth grading. Differing people set the threshold differently, and if the coin has sentimental value it’s irrelevant. https://www.ngccoin.com/submit/how-to-submit/
  4. And pay via check or e check. The name of the bullion game is getting your cost as low as possible. And a few percentage points for a credit card payment add up if you buy much. You’ll never see a gain, except in rare circumstances, if you buy one at a time with a credit card. Now if you got the V75 or something like that it’s different. But the average ASE you better try to lower your acquisition cost as much as possible for an investment.
  5. My apologies to the OP. I have totally derailed your post. Hopefully you got what you needed. I’m just in awe of the ancients. I may venture into that territory some day, but for now I love watching the detective work to figure out where in the world and in what era a coin comes from. You don’t do that with US coinage haha.
  6. I can only imagine the library required. Over the last year and a half I have purchased probably nearing 40 numismatic books, and I only collect US coinage. I will say the best tough love advice that I got, albeit bluntly, from some forum members was to put it in the time and read. Looking back now I asked some embarrassingly dumb questions in the beginning, but Im glad I was pushed to put the time it. It will pay off and start to click if you do. Now I fall asleep every night with a numismatic book of some sort in my hand.
  7. While there is definitely something going on with the mint mark, I don’t think it is an RPM or OMM. It doesn’t appear to match any of the RPMs on variety Vista. Likely this is a worn die or chipped die.
  8. If you are buying them for what they are, bullion, you certainly want to buy in as large of a number as you can. The difference adds up largely when you look at buying a monster box vs buying that many individually. Still baffles me that what was intended to be bullion gets the fanfare and grading wars that it does.
  9. Well now my admiration for your knowledge of ancients is a far second to the admiration I have for your approach towards other numismatists whether a past mentor or newbie. I only hope many of us can be as humble and helpful to others as you are, and this hobby will be strong for many generations to come.
  10. I have nothing but the utmost respect for you ancients gurus. The level of knowledge and research required is impressive.
  11. Well clearly don’t do that 😂. But I would assume it’s a lamination then.
  12. It almost looks like a large die break, but I think a lamination is more likely. If that is the case error collectors would probably pay some level of premium, but I don’t think it’s a large premium. I personally don’t collect errors and I am not up to speed on pricing. If you aren’t familiar a lamination error is when a portion of the planchet has a flaw and will separate or flake off. Sometimes they are retained and sometimes you just see the remaining void. Does it look like in hand that this part of the metal is separating?
  13. Agreed. Just damage. It may have been in a tumbler at some point with all that stippling. Metal detector finds get tumbled with rocks or other media that has a similar effect. Could just be a corrosive chemical. Regardless of cause it didn’t happen at the mint.
  14. I don’t think it’s the minor one either. I don’t see any doubling.
  15. I think you are in the right range. I’d say EF 45 to be conservative. Might go low AU on a good day. Can you get a close up of the cheek you the mouth? It almost looks like a retained delamination.
  16. If you can’t get a good picture this is what the DDO would look like. It’s fairly subtle due to weak hubbing. If it is there this DDO is not attributed by NGC only the major one is.
  17. It’s certainly not the strong DDO for this date/mint. There is another DDO that is much more subtle. Can you get a close up and nicely cropped photo of the date? The doubling would primarily be seen in the upper part of the 6 and 9 in the date if there.
  18. Just a very damaged quarter. Just because it was in a roll is irrelevant. People roll and spend damaged coins regularly. What on this coin makes you think error versus damage when you look at it?
  19. It’s been very harshly cleaned. With sandpaper it appears haha. Sans cleaning I can’t say. Look at something like PCGS photograde or look at graded Morgans sold at auction houses. You’ll start to get a feel for how many bag marks equal roughly what grade. This one I can’t tell what was bag marks and what was abrasive cleaning so it’s impossible to tell the what if grade had it not been cleaned.
  20. I wouldn’t swear to it so curious about other opinions. I just think it’s a likely culprit and it seems like the edge of that rounded mountain would be an area of the die that gets some stress.
  21. Greenstang nailed it. This coin is damaged and has been in acid that eroded some of the copper core which makes it look like a pulley. The reference to the value is on the reverse is also correct, and not based on any error. It’s worth a Quarter Dollar (face value) and has no numismatic value. Spend it.
  22. This is a prime example of a tale of two coins based on pictures. These pictures show a lot of contact marks. They still don’t allow a clear view of the coin. If you want to just take very simple pictures front and back with your cell phone and crop them close it will work great. based on these pictures no it would not we worth grading. This coin is MS 61 at the highest it appears. So roughly $50 if that is the case. It may be circulated I just can’t see the obverse well enough. It may also be cleaned based on lines behind the hair but can’t say for sure. The only reason I say a clear picture of the obverse is that there is a DDO of this coin. Slight chance but it would be worth significantly more.
  23. I would assume it’s a die chip that occurred at the edge of the mountain device.
  24. With those scratches on the obverse this would be a damaged coin. The good news is for $4.50 it’s an easy one to cull.