Woods020

James, If you are into token collecting JustBob has a fun thread over in the US, World and Ancient section entitled “Token Tuesday - Post Em If You Got Em”. Nothing wrong with doing it here either just making you aware of it.

It means it was part of a private collection, and the owner of the private collection named it the Indra Seno Collection. I am unfamiliar with this collection or the owner. I think it’s a little overused on the collections. Only a few collections from very influential numismatist, in my simple opinion, are the only ones I would consider additive to the coin. Certainly not DL Hansen labels everywhere these days. But someone may be able to chime in and name the owner of that collection.

None of them are worth grading. Most of them appear lightly circulated, but even in MS none of them really warrant grading. Nice album coins for your collection though. The one exception would be a doubled die 1970 S Large Date. It brings a hefty premium. 1970 S small date is worth saving for your collection. It’s not a big money coin but depending on condition may be a $10 to $20 coin. With that said can you post better pictures of the two 1970 S? I can’t see if they are large date or small and sure can’t see if it by a remote chance had a DDO.

I completely fail to see the point of this entire post. The feedback here given to newbies seeking advice is consistently slow down, don’t rush to grade, if it isn’t worth $150 (depending on who says it) don’t grade, learn before you grade…….. That advice is given to prevent people from grading coins not worth it. If someone was foolish and made the submission the market value would be face value or what someone wanted to give you. There are lowball registries where people specifically collect low grade certified coins. But I fail to see any value in this discussion?? What is your point? It’s not as if we don’t work to prevent someone from doing what you are implying and the point is made multiple times a day in various inquiries.

Agreed. It’s basic pricing theory. They are priced and sold at what the market will support. It does fluctuate a little with spot but it’s also never going to be near spot.

Michele, What is it you want to do with the coins you have? Is it to begin collecting, or have you inherited some coins and would like to sell? Advice may be different depending on your end game. However, there is some basic guidance that applies. 1. Grading fee, shipping both ways, etc will mean it will cost you in the $50/$60 range per coin all in. Now this will vary based on how many you ship at one time, grading tier, etc but that’s directional. 2. If the coin is not going have a value of say $150 or more then financially it won’t be a good decision. 3. If you want to begin collecting, there are many ways to properly store your coins without having them slabbed. We can give you advice if needed on storage. 4. Slow down. The coins aren’t going anywhere. Learn to assess condition and value and then make decisions on where to go with it. You can have the coins graded a year from now if you decide. Resources suggestions: - Grading 1. PCGS photograde app is a nice way to get high level grading down with picture examples 2. ANA grading standards is a good book to purchase and use 3. YouTube is generally speaking a terrible place for information, but some reputable information can be found PCGS put out a nice video series on coin grading. Here is the link to coin grading 101. You can progress through them over time. 4. Look at a bunch of graded examples look on Heritage Auction, Great Collections, etc and study the graded coins. See if you can determine why one graded higher than another. It takes time and looking at a bunch of coins to start to get it. - Pricing 1. Look at sold prices for similar graded coins. eBay and major auction houses all have search functions for sold listings. This is one of the best indicators is what people actually pay. 2. If you want to invest in a membership, Greysheet is a widely used pricing resource also used by many dealers. 3. Many pricing guides (redbook, PCGS, NGC, etc) are directional but inflated. They can often times be misleading. I hope this helps. Stick with it and it will click soon enough.

I’ll definitely take a look at the list. I will probably end up with a proof to fill that slot, but I would love to find a nice business strike. They are work quite a few more points.

This one looks cleaned/whizzed to me

I need a good clad 65-98 quarter for my registry set. Ideally an MS 68. If you have one that fits the bill I’m interested.

Clearly I need to learn the lower end of the Sheldon scale and how it corresponds to letter grades. I concur this is an 8.

JP, You will get much more feedback posting questions in a separate post for each coin. Not as many of the people you want to give you advice will dig through these. Here is my thoughts, but they are just that my thoughts. First it’s hard to see all the surfaces with the glare. It may be hiding a lot or nothing I do t know. 64 D - I don’t know that you will get a 58 with the marks on the cheek. It’s the prime focal point and distracting. Maybe a 55 on a good day or a 53 if the glare is hiding anything. 64 P - It does appear to be a nice coin, but at higher grades the nuances are subtle I would want to see it without the glare. Literally that reflection can hide a ton of stuff. Not to say you are trying to hide it just saying it’s hard to say a coin is/is not 68 and nearing perfection without seeing it as clear as day.

It’s close but VG may be a stretch. It may be G-8. Others may Disagree.

The Kitco price is for 1 Troy ounce of silver.

Again looks exactly as it should with the correct designer initials. Lower case A. This artist always uses this configuration.

Hi luckey and welcome to the forum. You can take your coins to a certified NGC dealer and they can submit on your behalf. It may benefit you also to have them give you a first opinion on if they warrant submission. Check with local coin dealers and most will be able to submit.

The very first response (Moxie) to the inquiry states it is damage. Once that was out of the way we attempted to answer his question and provide a learning experience. Continuing just to yell damage and not address his question would not go very far at helping others learn or the hobby. Since you are very clearly disgruntled with the moderators are you taking the old adage of “if you can’t beat them join them” to heart? Are you trying out for a moderator role for all of the rest of us??

It does look just like Richard Alan Masters as evidenced by the official mint image. You can also admire his other work at his personal studio if you like. https://richardalanmasters.com/about/

Agreed it looks like the same coin. The lighting and angles of the two different sets of photos highlights different imperfections more or less, but there is enough in both sets to see it’s the same.

Saddle horn doubling is the one that gets mentioned a lot on this one. I don’t know that it has been officially attributed as such. There is a long list of “varieties” on state quarters that are nothing of interest in reality.

Regardless of what you call it they are extremely common. I put a few aside early on and threw them back in circulation after seeing just how many there are. It’s neat to look at but not rare or special by any means. About the only thing worth noting on any of the state quarters is the Wisconsin “extra leaf” varieties (low & high). Nothing else is really worth the time looking unless you just do it for fun, which a lot of us do. But don’t expect much if any premium. I say this not to be a person_too_unaware_of_social_graces, but more that I know YouTube has hyped the “valuable and rare state quarter errors” and it is just BS. A lot of them are die chips, mechanical doubling, etc just hyped.

I was hoping they were in that XF range, but nonetheless you may be in for a nice surprise. Real world recent auction sales for these two would put the price range as: 1901 S : $2700 - $3000 range. Greysheet is $3000. 1913 S : $700 - $900 range. Greysheet is $975

I just re-read your post. The two slabbed coins are keys for the series and worth a nice amount of money. Quite the gift for sure. What are the grades of the two graded?

Does the collection contain any of the following? These are the more sought after and higher value ones to look for. If you do have any you can post a clear picture front and back each in its own thread and people can give you grade estimates. - 1892 S - 1893 S - 1896 S - 1896 O - 1897 S - 1897 O - 1898 O - 1901 O - 1901 S - 1908 S - 1909 O - 1911 D - 1913 - 1913 S - 1914 S

I’ll give a lot of credit where credit is due. The members of this forum have taught me a lot, and I am very appreciative. I am sure you were one of the ones I was grumbling under my breath about as I read responses early on until one day it started clicking. Low and behold what they are telling me from their years of learning actually has merit. Who knew? 😂 I do appreciate the membership here and this is a great place to learn if someone wants to. To mention another piece of advice perhaps you and others gave me is that nothing is a substitute for good old fashioned studying, like with books and everything. So this isn’t THE answer to learning, but this forum is a good tool to have in the learning arsenal. I only try now to pay it back and help others where I can with what little I’ve learned.

Don’t feel silly. I assure you I’ve asked dumber questions. Stick with it. It will come quickly with a little work.