Woods020

It’s not that they miss them. It’s that variety attribution is an additional service and not included in the base grading fee except in rare exceptions. When you submit for grading there will be a variety service you can choose. You then pay a fee ($15 I think at both but not sure). Then they will look for variety. If it has one it will be noted. If not then obviously they won’t. But if there isn’t a variety they recognize you don’t get the fee back. That’s why it’s important to make sure you have true variety and that the grading service you use recognizes it.

It shows signs of cleaning. Are the lines across the face on the obverse scratches? Hard to tell in the pics.

Thank you sir. These things are all over the place on metal. The silver colored ones pictured are “white metal” ALA- 6 is copper-nickel ALA-2 is brass ALA-3 is copper They did make a few in silver, and they are by far the hardest to find I have quickly learned. Leave it to me to stumble on a token with 40 variants to find.

Jeremy, It is impossible to tell you a lot from those pictures. Just looking at contact marks it’s probably MS 64/65. However based on the lighting it’s not possible to see luster or finer scratches. It may have been cleaned but these pictures won’t show it. Long story short you need correctly lighted pictures for anyone to tell you anything reliably.

They will only do it if you pay the additional fee. They may see an error, but it won’t be attributed without an attribution fee and that service requested on the submission form.

No DDR. Using the same resource I included in the other post you can see no known DDRs for this date/mint. http://www.varietyvista.com/01b LC Doubled Dies Vol 2/DDR listing.htm

Personally I don’t see an RPM, but the pictures are fuzzy. As you are newer in collecting I wanted to provide you a nice resource to confirm suspected varieties. Your coin should match all the indicators matching the variety listing on this site exactly. Just because it has something different doesn’t mean it’s a variety. I’m linking to the specific page for the coin in question, but many coin types are listed. http://www.varietyvista.com/02b LC RPMs Vol 2/RPMs 1975D.htm Also to note not all varieties that are listed are also acknowledged by the grading services. If you do have one that matches you then need to see if it’s major enough to be included. Many minor varieties aren’t. Here is the resource to our hosts variety attribution list that they will attribute. https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/united-states/

Welcome to the forum. This appears to be a die break. The die literally cracks/breaks with repeated use and allows metal to flow outside of the intended design.

For a little variety in this section here is something a little different from the U.S. I have recently started a collection of coins, medals, tokens and other exonumia related to the state of Alabama. In a stacks auction this week several nice tokens came across the block from the Mobile Jockey Club (Mobile Alabama). Little is known about the club, and the earliest mention that I can find is in a Mobile newspaper in October 1842 (article attached). The medals and tokens associated with this club were created and procured by noted numismatist Joseph Napoleon Tricot (JNT) Levick. Levick had many accomplishments such as founding member of both Philadelphia and New York numismatic societies, ANA hall of fame member, and launched the first numismatic periodical (American Journal of Numismatics) in which he also included the first photographic plate of coins. There are more than 40 known mules and varieties of these tokens and I keep a vigil eye out as I see them come to the market. If you happen to run across any let me know. I would love to see if it’s one I have or one I need.

Looks like a large 5 to me. It’s in rough shape I can’t help you with the die marriage.

Also if you have questions such as is this worth grading, does this have a variety, etc. feel free to post pictures on here and ask before you spend any money. Some very knowledgeable members here are always happy to help.

Don’t be discouraged. The best advice I can give is to study before you buy. And be in no hurry to submit for grading. Coins aren’t going anywhere. Learn as much as you can then buy. Grading is largely subjective by the way. Many people will have slightly different opinions within one or two grades. It’s just par for the course. 3 graders at PCGS felt it was a 66. Others think a 64. It happens don’t be bothered by it.

Can you pictures of both sides of the coin?

While interesting it boils down to a die break, and doesn’t add much value if any. Interestingly there are over 1500 known “bie” errors on cents mostly occurring in the 1950s. Cool to look at but not value additive. Certainly not worth error attribution fees.

No clue other than the likely scenario where it was adopted in local lingo from an early settler. South Carolina and it’s ports were a fairly major European trade colony. If it links to British origin I figure it is likely from a settler using the term and it “caught on” with other locals and was engrained as a regional phrase. Lots of local phraseology developed like that. But that is 100% speculation on my part.

I think the origin has something to do with when coins could be cut to make smaller denominations. My suspicion only and not a fact. In that a “case” anything was one whole coin. Now it’s used in examples like the machine will only take a quarter. If I give you two dimes and a nickel will you give me a case quarter. And I’m using quarter for example. It could be case dollar, etc…. Again just my understanding of the meaning.

Correct. That would NOT be a case quarter 😂

I always thought case was to differentiate a single as well, but in a slightly different way. For example with a quarter, a case quarter is meant as a whole quarter and not two dimes and a nickel equaling 25 cents. Atleast that’s always been my southern interpretation haha.

It may be a reflection in the picture but it looks like a slight MAD on the reverse as well.

The O in God is correct for this Peace Dollar. It looks like it has some abrasion in the Trust area. Where the U(V) and the S appear to be affected. I don’t think it was a mint made issue because part of the V seems to be missing. I looked at the VAMs and I don’t see anything like this listed. I agree I think the real value is sentimental. When you say you had it looked at, by whom? If they told you super fine I probably wouldn’t trust their opinion. Super Fine isn’t a grade name that is used. Very Fine or Extremely Fine maybe? And I don’t know what they would mean from a V strike error. I’m curious who this was.

Fascinating. Thanks for sharing. I learned a few things for sure.

Don’t be bothered. We have all done it. And this was a legitimate question and clear pictures. You are already ahead of the game compared to most. Welcome to the forum!

Some guy in the marketplace section was selling some cartoon themed “coins” that are square. I had never seen them before he wanted to sell some. They are chibi from some island country of Niue. Apparently these crazy things are selling for $499 if they make MS70 when graded. There’s an odd shaped, odd themed, and very oddly inflated coin.

I’m not a medal collector either, but I do think this one is well done. If you collect these or have a tie to the Air Force I could see why you would jump on it.

I wouldn’t touch it. I don’t foresee it going to a higher grade of regraded, and possibly the opposite. It could just be my view, but there is possibly some wear on the hair around the face and impaired luster for sure in that area. Could just as well come back AU potentially and you would kick yourself. moral of the story: Little to nothing to gain and more to lose. Leave it as is.