Woods020

There was a similar article in coin world earlier this year about several confiscations of both coins and bank notes. It’s rampant apparently. https://www.coinworld.com/news/us-coins/officials-seize-fake-coins-notes-at-chicago-mail-facility

I am tentatively planning on attending that event and will look forward to the demo. As much as I gave you in the other post I’m happy to see this. I do think you could pass along a lot of knowledge should you want. I’ll try to bring some dirty silver if I do come so you have volunteers for sure.

I was on an AA flight last week that went back to the gate and kicked off a fellow sitting across from me in first class for not wearing his mask properly. They aren’t messing around. Didn’t help he was already drunk either I suppose.

What are your numismatic credentials? Not to pick an argument but that’s a funny statement to me. There is no formal certification process per se to demonstrate mastery. I’ve looked and am contemplating the ANA diploma program but that’s far from a true credential. Other than that there is research and/or authorship of reference material. Such publications would suffice in my opinion but I’m not aware of any you or most of us have written. So that leaves us with self proclaimed mastery from many years of collecting and reading. That hardly qualifies as a credential either because that could be the equivalent of a participation trophy for many years in the hobby. So again what credential do you, or 99% of the people in this forum and hobby for that matter, possess? I completely concede I am new-ish, in your hated demographic, and still have a lifetime of learning ahead of me in numismatics. With that said the only credentials the vast majority have are self prescribed. However, your contributions to the hobby, in my observation thus far, are short retorts or condescending remarks to anyone who has a question. You somehow think it shows a mastery when ironically it shows the opposite. The truly expert among us answer questions with explanations and facts. Not that I have an issue with criticism whatsoever and am happy to learn from it. Unfortunately, it does little to progress the hobby or demonstrate your mastery of it when it’s all you offer. Those who deserve the utmost respect are those that can synthesize a question, no matter how ridiculous it may be, and give an accurate answer with factual context. That is a demonstrated mastery that I think is the best credential most experts in the hobby can present. Here is a quote to add to the list from a fellow from your home town: “Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain and most fools do.” Benjamin Franklin

ANA has a lot of great videos on line as well Kurt 😁. The internet isn’t a complete evil. It’s being able to sort through the 95% to find the 5% reputable information. I am signed up for a seminar tomorrow with ANA that is an online teleconference. Not a video by any means but it requires the internet hahaha.

I had been keeping an eye out for this token and found one of the top pops for this die pair. Alabama was a single merchant state regarding civil war tokens. There are 32 varieties known of the White & Swann tokens with a total maximum population of about 175 pieces per current rarity ratings (R-8 to R-10 depending on token) The origin of White & Swann is unknown. Based on research I have a suspicion that the two names mentioned stem from the following: Swann Farms was a large player during the time and still operates as a 6th generation farm in the Huntsville area. James White and Andrew Beirne were Virginia gentlemen, of the old school, both scions of old and influential families of the Old Dominion, with many of the virtues of the vices of that splendid type of the Anglo American known as the Old Virginia cavalier stock. James White was for a time in partnership with Alexander Gilbreath, the pioneer merchant in the county. James White was a man of considerable means and invested largely in real estate, owning with other property a fine body of land on both sides of Tennessee river near Whitesburg, which town received its name from him. He was blessed with a large family, of which Thomas W. White and Gen’l Ad. White are the representatives in Alabama, many of his descendants living in Virginia, where the family owned a large property.

Kind of surprising it still has the design on the coin as well albeit worn. Seems that if the die was out the coin would have no design elements at all. It almost makes you think this was struck normally and then lived a rough life doesn’t it?

The Type II are far inferior. I have been looking for an impressive one for a while now. There is inevitable weakness somewhere. Finding one with all rivets in the shield well defined is next to impossible.

Right now it’s a Standing Liberty Quarter that was a recent acquisition. It’s well struck and the toning is simply amazing to my eye. In fairness my “favorite” is a moving target.

A usual Lem nickel. Top quality and eye candy.

What are you suggesting is an error? Everything on this DIME is the result of deteriorated dies. Not an error and not worth a premium. Look at a roll of dimes and most of them will have issues like this.

I’m not a copper expert by any means but someone can tell you thoughts on authenticity. I personally would be concerned with the verdigris. Wanted to make sure you saw that.

Just playing devils advocate because I do sincerely respect knowledgeable numismatists…. 1. Does it really matter? I think an accurate description of the coin is a fundamental requirement. Knowledge of market trends and pricing is needed to offer fair buy and sell pricing. Aside from that what would a “certified” expert be able to offer that would be needed 99/100 times? Yes buyers may have more in depth questions from time to time and the knowledge would be helpful certainly, but the vast majority of coin transactions today occur based on the coin and the label on the slab. That doesn’t necessitate more than a general numismatic knowledge. Again not saying anyone could do it, but I don’t think it takes a “PHD” in numismatics when most times a “Bachelors” is sufficient. 2. How would new players develop? Meaning I respect deeply those who have done this for decades, and certainly think they will have a deeper knowledge than even the sharpest new comer with a few years experience. Would the master dealers demand a premium for their coin sales vs an intermediate? We always preach buy the coin. Does it really matter who is selling it? Now with all that said is if the point is simply to display that they have a mastery of the subject and claim a superior knowledge great. I can’t argue that they have earned it. But other than simply saying I’m a master of the subject what would it accomplish?

Yes. Melt is the value of the base metal (silver, gold,etc) if you just sold it solely for the metal to melt.

Here is a good example from a reputable dealer. They may be close enough to you to give them a visit. They have an 1881 half eagle in AU58 graded by NGC for $579 asking price. You can make an offer. Melt is about $461. You can move up to an MS coin for a little more. And as I said you can often find them in slightly lower grade for melt. Just giving you an example in your area. https://www.northeastcoin.com/popupcontainer.jsp?include=vi&itemKey=zi18_1000249744

Now that others have said it, I’m curious. The reverse does look like it could be a proof. The obverse I don’t know. May be the picture. But obviously agree if it’s a proof this is a moot post. I would also like to see a picture of the full reverse. I want to see if that’s a die crack or damage through the F in half Dollar.

This is exactly how I started in collecting. I started buying bullion, and soon noticed I could buy a pre-1933 gold piece or an old silver of some sort for close to what the modern bullion products are. And there was no question to me as to which one was more fun. As far as what to buy, I don’t know that there is a definitive answer. Gold is hot right now so keep that in mind. But if you aren’t as worried about top grades, it is not hard to find say XF to even AU slabbed examples of older gold quarter through double eagle at about melt price (the intrinsic value of the gold). It would be a good way to venture into gold with little downside and see what you like. And you’re essentially paying the bullion price.

I have an album started on merchant tokens as well. Ironically I have this one already in the album. I’ve amassed quite a few but it’s a drop in the bucket as to what is out there.

It’s unquestionably a dime

Can you post a full pic of the coin front and back? I’m curious to see if it’s circulated. I will say that dimes of recent years mintage have a ton of these issues. The dies are worn badly. You will see a lot of die chips and cracks as well. Finding a dime now without something like that it almost seems is rarer than one with something like that it seems.

Franklins are heart breakers in my experience. I’ve sent a couple I swore were FBL and they didn’t make it. They are very strict on them and I have seen others say the same. There are two areas that would worry me. The immediate left of the crack is allowable to be slightly weak. But the two areas I put arrows to would be questionable.

This is a huge help. I’ve got an album I’m putting together of trade tokens and this helps a lot. I recently found the book written by Wood that focuses specifically on Alabama trade tokens and scrip. I am most definitely going to add the hard times tokens to the list for the set. For the mobile one, I’ve seen several that state they are from the mobile jockey club. But there is no indication on the token itself that states it was related to that club. I definitely need to do some reading on that subject. Apparently that club had several made through the years.

Thank you! I have the State Quarters and proofs in the set already.

Thanks Bob!! Hard times tokens for sure aren’t something I’ve looked into.

I have debated on that. I’ve never dove into notes, but there are an extensive amount of Alabama banks with notes through the years. I’ve looked at several but need to read more before I take that plunge.