Coinbuf

Weight will solve this question, however, it is not unusual for clad coins to not show the copper core on the edge.

I think you are jumping the gun here powermad, we don't know that this coin has any rotational error at all, post from the op: "Yes I do I think. But it's just a normal penny. When you flip a coin over it should be the right side up. If I post more pics I'll be sure to take them straight on. I was more concerned about getting a clean photo." The op has not posted any further photos to confirm or deny if there is any rotation striking error, he described it as a normal coin.

Your coin has details that would support an XF or AU grade, however, as was noted above the coin has some issues including what might be active PVC contamination. Because of the issues with the coin I think the value is lower than $50.

Looking forward to seeing your results.

Acetone will be the best to use as it will not remove any of the patina the coin has. Having said that, you might find that removing the gunk might leave the surface with bright spots that may look unnatural with the rest of the surface. MS70 might work but it will "brighten" the look of the coin as it will remove some of the patina, word of caution, I have not used MS70 on a gold coin of this type so I cannot be certain of the effect it could have.

I think everyone would agree with you on this, however, when misinformation is presented, it should be called out so that newer members are not mislead by that wrong information. The amount of misinformation about numismatics in general and errors specifically has grown exponentially over the past few years. Sadly, when that misinformation is provided by a know-it-all troll things are bound to deteriorate. @Tobias J Reily Just curious, have you decided to submit this coin or keep it raw.

The last projection I saw had it making landfall as a category 2 or 3, but that may have changed since I last looked. A category 3 could do some substantial damage.

Welcome to the forum, sorry but your coin is just damaged and is not any type of error.

There are 16 RPM's listed on VV, however I do not see a match for your coin. Problem with proof and PL coins is that often you get some reflection artifacts when looking at photos. It sounds like this is in transit to you now so once it arrives you can update with the in hand look.

Unfortunately just die deterioration, examples like this were hawked by some sellers as the "poor mans double die". Welcome to the forum and better luck next time.

Crickets from @Mike Meenderink the master of misinformation, what a surprise that he has no data to support his fantasy value claim.

Better get an Orkin pro, you need someone to exterminate your fantasies.

Make sure he ships to you before you pay, the op is flakier than a biscuit.

Send the registry team an email, I'm sure they will fix it once notified, welcome to the forum.

No worries, just a bit of miscommunication which happens when not face to face. I have not made any assumptions about you, however, it is extremely common for us to see new folks on here who lay claims to all sorts of new discoveries only to turn nasty and defensive when the consensus is not what they want to hear. I was just trying to avoid that, I look forward to reading your updates. While I still only see MD I am hoping that you have found a new one, that is always exciting.

@Walkerfan That is a lovely example of a very tough date, congratulations on adding that to your collection!

Why do you think this decision by NGC which is only for the NGC registry will have any effect on CAC? To what ordeal are you referring to? CAC will not be reviewing CACG graded coins, period. While the grading and stickering are under the CAC roof so to speak each is its own separate operation yet viewed as identical from the CAC perspective. A CAC graded MS65 is, in the yes of CAC, the exact same as an NGC MS65 with a green bean. As such there will not be a need or a way for a CACG graded coin to be reviewed by CAC for a sticker. As a side note, a few people have been confused by seeing a green bean on the label of the new CACG holder. That is not to signify that it has been reviewed and awarded a green bean, but that the green bean is a brand symbol, no different than the fulcrum scale that NGC uses on its label. I'm not sure why any of this makes you uneasy or feel like you're in a rabbit hole, and I do not share your sense of doom and gloom, in fact I think a new TPG can serve the hobby well as new competition is essential to keeping everyone (by everyone I mean the current TPG's) on their toes.

Welcome to the forum, please don't take this the wrong way but for someone that is self admittedly "new to buying US coins" you are sure jumping into the deep end of the pool. Are you an experienced buyer of coinage outside of US coins? IF not then you might want to consider the possibility of having this purchase screened by someone who has more experience in this area. Within every grade there is a range of quality from high to low, paying top dollar for a coin that is considered by many to be of lower quality can be quite a shock when you go to sell it someday. Also there are many factors that go into pricing besides just the quality as perceived by the seller, some of those are; the presence of or lack of a CAC bean, special provenance or history of who might have owned the coin previously, and more. But as to your question if you are not familiar with the NGC site the coin explorer section is where you can find lots of information about almost every coin you might wish to inquire about, link provided. Coin Explorer Below I have posted the section for a 1882 PF trade (non cameo as you did not state CAM), as you can see the recent auction prices have a varied range all of which can be due to the factors I listed above. Also remember that this data is auction history, if you are considering a purchase from a dealer you should expect to pay his markup which will end up higher than most of the auction numbers that the explorer shows.

There is a very big difference between your coin (which I believe is only MD) and the photo you pulled of the WDDO-003, yours is clearly shelflike and not at all like a true doubled die. Doubled die coins are not decided by the "spread" of the doubling but rather by what caused the doubling. However, from your posts you seem to have convinced yourself completely that you are correct so having an internet fight over this will not be of any further value, I suggest that you send it off to be evaluated by the people that can make the call as they will have the coin in hand to evaluate. As I said I think you will get the coin back with an MD determination, but I have been wrong and could be again. Please update this thread when you get your results so that we all can learn from this experience.

We cannot help you if you do not help us with good photos. I said earlier that we need photos of both sides and the edge, however, your edge photo is not in focus, well your fingers are but the edge of the coin is not. Do you have a calibrated scale that can weigh to two decimal places? If so what is the weight? Without anything to go on all anyone can say at this point is you have a dime worth ten cents.

I am not aware of any specific term or nomenclature used to describe what you are seeing on the edge. The coin was struck with late die state dies as evidenced by the heavy/course flow lines you see in the fields radiating from the devices to the rim. That may have caused the "Railroad track" feature that you see, again not something I have seen or heard a term for, perhaps another member knows more on this.

looks like a very slightly misaligned die (called MAD), not unusual and not an error worth any premium. While this is somewhat common and indicative of the typical poor quality control at the US mint operations for circulation coinage, it is not out of tolerance. To have any added value or be considered an error worth note the coin would need to have some portion of the lettering be missing/off the side.

Please show both sides of the coin and the edge, we can only guess that your coin has been damaged from this lone photo, no value over face value.

Aside from a few true proof examples there are no truly rare Morgan dollars, you can find expensive (and inexpensive) examples just about everywhere.

This is a good way to approach coin buying, and when asked I have almost always advised patience. It is important to remember that very few coins are so rare that you need to be quick on the trigger with the first coin to come along. As I type this there are 16 details or genuine examples and over 60 straight graded examples of this date available just on collectors corner alone, there is nothing rare or difficult about finding this or just about any key date. Keep your powder dry and wait for that good coin to show up, there will be many more coins of this date to choose from.