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  1. Hi, New user to this forum, but I've had many transactions on reddit/collectors.com/thesilverforum.com/bullionstacker (Username Keevan, many successful precious metals transactions across those sites.) 21+year eBay account: davek89 I am looking for 1oz/0.5oz/0.25oz/0.1oz gold Krugerrands, years: 1969, 1985-2007 (except 1988, 1990, 1993-1994, 1996, 1998, 2000-2002), and 2012 Let me know what you've got. Thanks!
  2. I, Quintus Arrius, have been seriously thinking about transferring my entire #1 ranked collection of 🐓 to NGC, a move that will necessarily entail time, money 💰 and the expense and risk associated with mandatory cross-grading. I have given this idea a considerable amount of thought and would like the membership here, unless expressly unlawful and illegal and against the NGC rules, regulations and guidelines, to freely share their thoughts both pro (and con, if they can summon up the courage to do so). Accordingly, speak up, or forever hold your pieces.
  3. The following is the reply I received today from one of the Top Three bullion dealers requesting their definition of the topic of this post as it related to an ad they placed regarding an "original" (1904) French 20-franc gold rooster: "BU condition will fall within the range of MS-60 to MS-70." Comments, anyone?
  4. 1900 US Gold $20 Liberty Head Double Eagle - NGC MS63 On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/373388663002? PF70 NGC 2020 ST HELENA UNA AND THE LION GOLD GILDED 1 OZ SILVER PROOF LOW POP On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/164871758089?
  5. 1907 US Gold $20 Liberty Head Double Eagle - NGC MS63 On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/373558185461? 1900 US Gold $20 Liberty Head Double Eagle - NGC MS63 On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/373388663002?
  6. I know it’s Augustus but I’m not to familiar with gold roman coins. Can anyone advise if this is an authentic coin? It’s similar to a few silver augustus coins but I cannot find anything on it. Thank you for any help or if you can point me to any information.
  7. ...Better to slab or not ? I have 4 smaller U.S. bullion gold coins I'll most likely get slabbed and one of them being in it's original packaging as shown in image. I'm concerned that later in life little curious fingers might want to see coin in hand and potentially mar the surface. So, from a collecting standpoint, is it better to leave in original Mint display or have it slabbed and keep Mint display box/material on hand ? Thanks.
  8. Can anyone shed some light on this gold coin ?
  9. Hello guys, I have a couple of newbie questions regarding my 20 Francs French Rooster 1906 but I guess it relevant to any coin. *please find pictures of my coin in the end of the post A. I noticed there are different grades to a coin quality - how do I determinate what is my coin's grade? B. I have checked different website and resources for the coin's value and each one of them showed different value (from $250 to $2000). How can I tell what is the expected coin's value? Thanks
  10. 1892-CC Liberty Gold Eagle $10 Carson City Coin On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1892-CC-Liberty-Gold-Eagle-10-Carson-City-Coin-Certified-NGC-AU-Details/143560660003?
  11. Greetings, I sent my first coin in to NGC for conservation and grading. It is a 1989 Guanyin 5 oz gold medal. I sent the COA and asked on the submission form to have it returned with the coin. When I got the coin back in the mail there was a plastic sleeve with a bright post-it note that said *return COA with coin*. There was no COA returned with the coin. When I called and asked, they said it was being sent separately. A week later (today), I called and the representative told me that it's OK and that the COA isn't necessary. On a $20k coin. I have the original mint packaging but no COA now. So, what do you guys think I should do? Obviously I am not happy. I spent $750 for this conservation and grading alone.
  12. 1932 $10 Indian Head Eagle Gold NGC MS62 Coin Ten Dollar Uncirculated On Ebay
  13. 1911-S $20 Gold Coin NGC MS-63 On Ebay
  14. I have the following coins up for auction on GreatCollections.com https://www.greatcollections.com/Coin/768961/South-Korea-1986-Gold-25000-Won-1988-Olympics-Uncertified-in-Original-Government-Packaging-AGW-04999-oz https://www.greatcollections.com/Coin/768960/1989-Congress-Bicentennial-Clad-Half-Dollar-Silver-Dollar-and-Gold-Five-Dollar-Proof-Set-Uncertified-in-Original-Government-Packaging-3-Coins https://www.greatcollections.com/Coin/768959/2001-US-Capitol-Visitor-Center-Clad-Half-Dollar-Silver-Dollar-and-Gold-5-Proof-Set-Uncertified-in-Original-Government-Packaging-3-Coins https://www.greatcollections.com/Coin/768953/1991-W-Mount-Rushmore-Golden-Anniversary-Gold-5-Proof-Uncertified-in-Original-Government-Packaging https://www.greatcollections.com/Coin/768955/1987-US-Constitution-Bicentennial-Silver-Dollar-and-Gold-Five-Dollar-Proof-Set-Uncertified-in-Original-Government-Packaging-2-Coins Many of these coins have very low bids. Come and check out and happy bidding.
  15. Forgive me if this post seems naieve or simplistic. I am just looking for opinions please. I have a collection of 100+ gold sovereigns that I intend to leave my daughter as an inheritance. I'm considering having pretty much all of them certified / graded by NGC, my primary reasoning to be to assure they are not counterfeit. I imagine over time that the price of gold will continue to rise and increasingly buyers will want assurances gold coins are not counterfeit. I have a wide range from probably VG to MS63 or MS64. It will also help her determine value if she ever decides to sell them one day. Does anyone think this is a reasonable / stupid idea, should I be more selective about what I get graded ? Opinions of any kind including criticism welcome, so long as they are expressed with kindness :)
  16. I had a buyer not commit to about three coins so I relisted them with a portion of my collection all together in the same listing. Gold Indians to wheat pennies https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/143365951366
  17. Blemishes appear to be on the holder and not the coin. Could also be inside of the holder. Selling at $405 shipped. Cash, checks, money orders or no fee PayPal or regular PP net $405 to me. Message here or email to BAJJERFAN@aol.com AS ALWAYS:THANKS FOR LOOKING!
  18. 1902-S: AU55 1910: AU58 1911: AU55 1926: MS61 1926: MS61 $1950 Email for questions, more pic etc, or to purchase: charleshicks51@gmail.com
  19. Hi again. Two questions. One, why does this coin look gold and it has no mint mark. Am I right when I read it's a proof?
  20. I recently purchased some $5 and $10 gold coins of various years dating back to the late 1890s and early 1900s. I want to get the coins graded and valued. I am picking the tier class gold coins and I don't understand where it says a maximum value up to $3,000. What does that mean? In other words if the value of the coin is $6,000, will it still be graded and valued? I don't know the value of the coins which is why I want to have them valued. Can someone help me answer that question.
  21. Out of all of the material I've read on counterfeit Indian quarter eagles, I haven't heard anyone mention luster as a way to distinguish between genuine and spurious examples of these coins. On genuine uncirculated examples, there is a cartwheel effect that centers on the top right corner of the Indian's headdress. There is also a secondary cartwheel effect that centers in the Indian's neck. I've never seen a counterfeit example successfully imitate these two cartwheel effects at once. Has anyone else noticed this, or seen any experts on this series mention this? I consider it a very helpful way to determine genuine uncirculated Indian quarter eagles from fake ones. It's nearly impossible to notice unless it's in hand or in a video explicitly showing that effect (I did my best to capture it here):
  22. Some of you may remember from my post about getting my MS65 1888 in early 2018 that, at the time I won that coin, I’d only seen one other coin of that date come up for sale that had been graded by NGC. That wasn’t too surprising given that, at the time, only 20 had been graded by NGC and, even now, only 22 have been encapsulated by NGC. I don’t think I’ve ever bothered to check this before but PCGS has graded a total of 33. So, assuming there hasn’t been any that were cracked out and/or re-submitted without having the old labels sent in to have them pulled from the census, there’s at most 55 of these coins graded by the two major companies. Side note – but I’m a bit surprised that more of these have been graded by PCGS than NGC – I thought NGC tended to grade more World coins and had a better reputation with World coins but maybe collectors of this series prefer PCGS overall – or maybe they used to. It’s all hard to say for sure. That other coin was an MS-62 that the seller wanted $875.00 for. I watched that thing I think for the better part of two years, wondering if it would sell and wondering if the seller would drop the price if it didn’t – they never did. In early 2016 – before I got laid off a few months later - I tried to offer the seller $650 for it - more than reasonable I thought at the time (I think the price guide at the time put it at about $575 in MS63). They still wanted over $800 and counter-offered with $825. I passed. I had had a hard enough time just making that offer. I found the idea of an MS62 for that set fairly underwhelming. I really wanted MS65 or better for that set but I had been somewhat willing to accept it for that coin just because it was the key-date of the series. That coin continued to sit in their inventory – until it didn’t! it went poof one day and I never knew (but always wondered) if someone finally bit the bullet and paid what they wanted for it or if they just gave up and pulled it off eBay. Well… I think I might have found out! The other day I got an email for my saved search on the 10G series and it was an 1888, in MS62, in the same generation of holder as that one from before (they were both in the newer generation of holder with the edge-view and the prongs). I can’t remember 100% for sure - it’s been a long time, literally years - but I think it was the same seller offering it for sale too. Except now, it wasn’t not listed as a BIN for $875. It was selling in an auction and the starting bid price of $0.99. I guess, after about 5 years or so now, they’ve finally given up on waiting, wishing, and hoping they’d find someone willing to buy it at that price. It reminds me of something “Just Bob” said on the chat boards recently – “you have to remember that, for many series, 600 pieces extant would be a huge hoard.” Even with only 22 graded by NGC (I have no clue how many of the original mintage of ~35,000 survive to this day), if the collector base is shallow enough, as it seems to be with this set, an MS62 could still prove to be a cheap coin that can be had for near melt. “Rare” is relative and “rare” doesn’t always translate into “valuable.” Seeing this pop up like this immediately got my interest and my curiosity piqued. Obviously, my finances being what they are at this point, I have no interest in getting in on this. Even if I had the cash, I wouldn’t have to worry about bidding on this. I have the 1888 that I want already – fortunately this does not have to be salt in the wound right now. I got to watch this sell, never bidding, and smile the whole time, because I got to see what everyone else thinks this thing is truly worth. Even if I’m wrong and it isn’t the same coin or the same seller, I still got to see what this thing went for when the bidders get to set the price. (There’s only 6 graded by NGC in this grade, so I have at least a 16% chance I’m right, right?) I knew going in that it wasn’t going to get anywhere that $875 asking price of yester-year. Even the MS65 I got only pulled in $500, so unless in the last two years a couple of collects with deep pockets that feel a burning need to get one of these coins that’s graded by NGC this wasn’t likely to exceed $500. The end result? $327.75 after shipping (a hair over 37% of that old original $875 asking price). 15 Bidders made 25 bids. So, you can’t say that it flew under the radar or didn’t get much attention. It feels good to know / have it reconfirmed for me (as if getting the MS65 for cheaper wasn’t enough) that I was right to not go for this back in the day and that I was far from being alone in thinking that that asking price was too high. Always go with your gut. If it feels wrong, if it feels like too much, it is. If it feels like a bad buy, it is. If you aren’t 100% thrilled to pull the trigger / enter the bid / hit “buy,” don’t do it. In my experience, if you aren’t happy in that moment, it doesn’t get better. Now to go look at my MS65 1888 10G - which I still think is freaking awesome 13 months later.
  23. I picked this up in late 2017 but we were focused on the holidays and an upcoming move so I never go to log-on here and post about picking this up, or even add it to my registry. Back in December my wife gave me the okay to pick up a small gold coin. The original idea I had in mind was to pick up an 1877 for my Netherlands 10G set. The 1877 is the last of the more common dates that I still don't own for that set and at the time leading up to her giving me the okay there was an MS66 on sale for a good price. Unfortunately, for me, that coin sold about 4 days before I got to buy something. The joys of life and timing sometimes I suppose. I wasn't too broken up about it. Unlike the 1888 that would pop up for sale 2 months later the 1877 comes up for sale pretty regularly in MS65 or MS66. I'll just have to be patient on that front for a while. In the mean time, I'm never one to waste the wife saying it's okay for me to buy something golden, so I started looking around and saw a bunch of Swiss and French 20 Franc coins going for prices and grades that I was okay paying. I thought about it for a while. The Swiss 20 has been on my list for a while because it would form a nice pair with my 1922 Swiss 10 Franc, but I've thought it would be fun to have a Rooster for a while too. I ultimately decided on the rooster, picking up this MS64 from 1913 - the year before the start of WWI. Many European countries were putting out small gold coins with an AGW of about 0.19-0.20 troy ounces at the time. The fact that they're all about the same size and from the same time period makes them interesting to look at together and cross-compare. I'm going to be a bit more relaxed on grades with this set/project. I'll mostly be looking for MS65 or higher when I can find it for a nice price but I'm generally happy with MS64s, especially on 100+ year old coins. I'm trying to be more particular with the 10Gs but that's a very special set for me. I've been wanting to build up a collection of European gold type coins from the late Victorian era (late 19th century) and early 20th century. The years I'm wanting to target for this range roughly from 1875 (the year the Netherlands 10G set starts) to 1913 (the start of WWI). I picked up the Swiss 10 Franc from 1922 years ago mostly on a whim because it looked interesting and was going for a nice price, but I'm wanting to keep this project, as and if I get it off the ground, to mostly pre-WWI coins because the world was a very different place during and after that War than it was prior to it. I will have some deviations from this. I want to pick up some British Sovereigns from the George VI and early Elizabeth II period and I want to get at least one Netherlands 10G coin from during the reign of Wilhelm II (father Wilhelm III, ruling from about 1840-1849, short reign). I will also be looking for a 1920s Swiss 20 Franc to pair with the 10 Franc at some point too, just because I like the Swiss cross design on that coin. I'll be excited to see in person is the French "Lucky Angel" design from the late 19th century, and it'll be fun to add some Italian gold because my wife lived there for several years as a child and Italy holds a special place in her heart. Of course, that's quite a list, and I'm getting ahead of myself because it'll take me a while to get through that and beyond. I'm expecting this to be my next major project as the Netherlands 10G set winds down for a while. Since those coins come up for sale so rarely I can't just buy more for the set whenever I want, so I'll need something else that's more flexible to play with while I wait.
  24. Well, when I made the last entry I was really leaning towards the MS66. By the time I went to bed on Saturday I had pretty much convinced myself that the MS66 was the way to go and that I should bid aggressively to make sure I got that coin. So then why am I writing this, saying that I bid on and won the MS65 tonight and why am I so stinkin’ happy about it that my wife is snickering about it at my expense? Well, my basis for thinking that the MS66 was the way to go was thinking it looked better in the pictures. But that’s in the pictures. The person that took photos of the MS66 seems to have known what they were doing. The lighting and everything else about the pictures of the MS65 is comparatively lousy, and I think the coin probably looks just fine in person. That undermined the rationale for going with the MS66 for me. Sunday night I was running some back-ups of personal files and cleaning up some old things that I don’t want or need to keep anymore. In the course of this I found my last “family photo” of the 6 coins I had, including the three in the old fatty holders (the 1876, 1879, and 1887). This really got me thinking again about how that MS65 would fit with the rest of my existing set. This also got me thinking again about the fact that some of the serial numbers were the same out to three digits and it got me wondering just how similar they were, so I pulled them out and looked. The serial numbers for the coins in the fatties are: 1876: 195949-XXX 1877: 195945-XXX 1879: 195974-XXX 1887: 196363-XXX … And there you have it. That coin’s invoice number had 5 digits in common with my 1876 and 4 digits in common with my 1879. There’s only a difference of 4 between two of the invoice #s and a span of less than 30 for all three of them. There’s a very good chance to my mind that the 1876 and 1877 were at NGC together getting graded at the same time, and maybe the 1879 too, maybe 15 or 20 years ago (I don’t know exactly when that holder and those numbers were in use – maybe others would know better?). I may never know what that story is, but I have to think there’s a story there and a shared history. That’s something I just can’t pass up. I just love the thought of that and the possibilities. I told my wife about this. She just laughed and said, “you are such a coin collector.” The MS66, in a current gen holder, was probably graded in the last 6-12 months, and it just isn't part of that same story. In the context of the set, that’s worth a lot. Initially I’d been thinking that the MS65 should go for less than $300, but I could see chasing it up to $325. After I saw all of this and got thinking about it, I fell in love with the idea that I decided I was willing to pay up to $350 just to get to bring the three coins, bought at different times, I think from 3 different merchants, back together. It turns out my prior research and watching of the market was about right in the first place I won the coin at $290.