Coinbuf

One of my few toned copper coins

Gold is the only wildcard so I think we should be on either a 1910 dated coin or a gold $10 Indian.

You have a great imagination op, and a damaged quarter that will only ever be worth a quarter.

Are you using the pro mode on the phone? It may be called something else for iphone as that is what its called on my android. In that mode you can adjust lots of settings like the white balance and such. If your not see if your phone has something like that to adjust the camera to suit the lighting better.

A tough topic that can have many different answers depending on the experiences that different collectors have had. I know a little about your journey, a few years prior to covid I was able to locate (with the help of a dealer friend) the final MS coin to complete my 1909 to 1958 wheat cent registry set a total of 142 coins. I am still working on the rest of the set 1959 to current, another 133 coins (and counting) not including varieties and proofs. Conventional wisdom says to buy the expensive coins first as those will generally continue to rise at a faster pace than the common coins. In the past this has mostly been true and at least for the next few years I think this will continue. So as long as you also expect the coin market to continue to rise my advice is rather than filling common date holes concentrate on the more difficult and less available issues. This will test your patience but will have two benefits. First you will have the tough expensive coins out of the way, and second if you lose interest in this set along the way and decide to sell it (in theory) will be easier to sell the keys than the commons. A real key to a nice collection is to keep the FOMO in check, Morgan dollars are very very common coins and are not difficult to locate, so do not go crazy just because you did not win an auction lot. There will be another, that is guaranteed. Of course this will make the progress in the beginning slower but it will force you to make the tough choices on how much you need to adjust your grade goal for these coins. This is how I mostly did my set, the very first coin I bought was the 09-SVDB, followed by many of the tougher branch mints from the teens and twenties. However sometimes availability can force you to move on and come back. While some will say that the entire Morgan set can be bought in a day at a large show (which is actually quite factual) it can take time to find the right coin for you in the grade you want. Case in point my very last coin for the 09-58 set was my 26-S, while I had many opportunities to purchase this coin along the way it was one of the hardest to find in my target grade with the eye appeal that I required. As to your other question; buying and then upgrading later; I strongly urge you to again hold the FOMO in check and not fall to the though process of "I must buy one now!". This way of collecting will end up costing you way more in the long run and take longer to complete your set. Again I speak from experience on this matter.

Perfectly at home here.

What @GBradsaid!

Well the edge looks correct, I'm somewhat on the fence given the blotchy look to the color but in all honesty I have not seen very many improperly annealed coins so it may be much more common than I know. I would guess that a true improperly annealed planchet would not change if given an acetone bath where a foreign substance on the surface would be removed, but don't take that advice without some confirmation as I have never done it.

Love that photo from the movie Gran Torino.

I agree with everything except I think his is a nickel.

As I am not familiar with this material I cannot help with your question, however for what its worth I did not find @JKK's comment to be condescending. More like a teacher invoking a thought process to reach a conclusion. Its unfortunate that you read/interpreted it differently.

Welcome to the forum the process is quite simple, you send the coins to NGC and NGC will grade and encapsulate them. There is never a guarantee that you will receive any specific grade especially a 70 grade. If that is your goal then I would suggest that you have the coins reviewed by a local coin shop (if there is one that you trust) or a trusted collector/numismatist that is close to you. If those options are not available to you then your only choice is to pick the ones that you think have the best chance or submit the group. Also check if there are any upcoming coin shows in your area, you might be able to have the coins reviewed by some of the dealers at a show for a small fee. Clearly sending in 15 coins will be costly so I suggest you exhaust all other options first. The process to submit is very straight forward, on the NGC home page you will see a blue line about 1/3 down the page with several menu items listed. Hover over the one titled submit and a drop down menu will appear. Choose the first item "How to submit" and follow the directions. One possible solution to your quest is to sell a couple of the raw coins you have and use the proceeds to purchase an already graded 70 coin. That way you are assured of getting the 70 grade you seek without all the submission costs. Best of luck with whatever course you choose.

@TopPopLowMintage throughout this entire thread you have shown a complete inability (or is it on purpose) to understand the modern coin market. The PCGS examples you recently posted in any attempt to prove your point only reinforce this, the market does not value coins in NGC plastic vs PCGS plastic the same all the time. Many times PCGS coins sell for more and then sometimes the opposite is true and NGC coins sell for more. Much of this disparity revolves around the PCGS exclusive registry which requires the participants there to have all their coin in PCGS plastic. As of today the PCGS pop for this coin is 70 with 2 + and one higher, compared to the NGC pop of 205 with 3 higher (bty you still have this info wrong in your op). So NGC has almost 3 times as many 67 graded examples on the market than PCGS, the very simple law of supply and demand is what has the prices for NGC graded 67's depressed vs the PCGS graded coins not some tin foil hat conspiracy theory of undercutting. This information took me all of 3 minutes to gather and post yet it appears that you did not do any due diligence to understand where the market is now and what market dynamics are in play before you posted your ad. I see that you have lowered your price, I still think your well over the market and your choice of payment options and the way you have approached this whole event is still blasting red flags but its your coin and you can ask what you want. I hope you enjoy that coin because I think you are going to own it for a very long time given your asking price and I don't imagine too many that would want to deal with you given your attitude. If I were you I would send it to PCGS as a crossover, if your able to get it into PCGS plastic at the 67 grade then you would have a much better chance of getting your original asking price. As a seller knowing the market is key to successful marketing.

Do you have any edge photos?

I am not a collector of such material so hopefully one of the fellas that collect ancients will be able to chime in on this subject. Can you expound on what you mean by "What’s up with the huge, large denomination Talers?"

Time for a weekly copper bump.

Been working on photos of my 7070 raw coins, I have this one down for the sharpness and overall look but there is more color that I just have not been able to bring out yet. Well I guess if my photos were perfect I would have nothing to work on.

It may be a lamination error, but the condition of the coin is so poor that it has very little value.

Hard to say for sure in the plastic, perhaps a small die gouge as it seems a strange place for a crack to form.

I cannot say for certain yes or no from this set of photos, those lines could be die polish lines. Notice that the lines appear to go under the devices, under the wing and also under the wreath, usually harsh cleaning lines will continue from the field over the devices as well. Please note that I said "appear" to go under, the photo is angled and the light is very harsh (partially obscuring the field in the second pic) which makes judging this very difficult. As you have the coin in hand perhaps you can tell if those lines are raised or incuse. If those lines are raised then I would say they are die polish lines, if those lines are into the metal (like a tiny valley) then a harsh cleaning is the likely issue. As to the DMPL or grade given by SEGS I would need better photos before I would be able to comment especially with no obv photo, I do agree that from these photos a DMPL designation seems unlikely. Edited to add: I am not inclined to call this whizzed, whizzing usually leaves the surface more satin like and you see metal build up around the devices, I really do not see that but again tough to say from these pics.

Interesting, have not seen it but this is the first time on the forum today for me so maybe it will pop up later.

I do not think those hits would preclude the coin from getting a straight grade, however they are in a prime focal area and your eye is drawn to them. I grade the coin as MS63, might get the "CC" grade bump to MS64; without those hits it would be a solid all day MS64.

It is difficult to grade from photos and even harder when the coins are tilted, try to take your photos with the coin dead flat to the lens and with the correct white balance when possible. The Morgan grades VF imo, however I cannot tell from these photos if there is any cleaning or other issues which could result in a details grade on both coins. 1887-O is not a difficult date to find through mid MS grades and is worth $30-$40 depending on the price of silver. The 1924 Peace dollar grades AU58 or AU55 imo, also very common and this one has some splotchy black toning (especially on the rev) which for me is not eye appealing. Same value as the Morgan $30-$40. Neither is worth the cost to have slabbed from a strict financial standpoint as they are worth $60 (combined) as is and worth maybe $70 after you spend $70 to have them graded and slabbed. Sorry wish the news was better but both of these are very common and in these levels of preservation their value is mostly tied to the silver content value