Coinbuf

the weekly thread bump! The coin I use for my avatar on the PCGS forum.

A slightly different type of holder.

The only slabbed Franklin I own, actually just about the only Franklin I own.

Glad that you had a good show and enjoyed the experience. To this question you posed prior to the show, in my limited experience (I have not been to any of the east coast shows only the Long Beach show) unless I know the dealer I very seldom buy at large shows. The reason for that is I expect the dealers have to price their coins higher in order to cover the expense of these large shows. So I go to the only close large show, or at least I will again once the LB show does not require papers to enter the show; to see the one or two large national dealers that I know and to look. These large shows are great for seeing a vast amount of coins in one place, but myself I have never gone to one of these shows with more than $100 to spend on coins, and I rarely ever return home with less than the original $100 I took. When I do see a coin at the table of the one or two dealers that I will buy from they have held the item for me and I have sent them a check on the Monday following the show. Certainly this only works with dealers that you have formed a relationship with over time.

Thank you, I hope to have some photos of it up soon as I think it has a very nice look. And it certainly was not inexpensive at close to $1,400 it is twice as expensive as any other coin in the set. I am sure that little green bean was responsible for pushing the price up in the GC auction where I bought it, but I really wanted it so I sold off a couple of Morgan dollars to make it happen. Going back to the 40-D, I do not really understand why the point bump is so low for the 40-D in 67+ when both the P and S coins have a very large spread in the points. I would guess that its an oversight on the part of the registry team and one day they may decide to change that. If that does change in the future then perhaps it might be worth taking a second look at. I have only one coin that I really want to upgrade and that is the 40-S half, I would really like one day to have a 67 in that slot. This is another coin where the registry point values seem very skewed, 1500 points for the MS66 to 6000 points for one grade higher. And its not like 67's are rare as the NGC pop report shows 21 in 67. However given the hefty price tag of around $5K I may never be able to afford one. In the past I have been critical of the dual award system that NGC uses, but in this case I am happy that your set will receive a first place award too, you have a magnificent set and it deserves to be recognized. Congratulations in advance as I fully expect you to win the NGC only 1st place award.

I also agree that your suspicion may be correct, the entire reverse looks lightly polished to help hide the removal.

I would like to see some ships as a theme, sure there are a couple of commems that have ships on the reverse but a 25 coin set of different historically important ships would be a neat theme. Problem is the mint is sure to pick garbage like the love boat, and then find some way of making that look even worse with the horrible engraving that is the norm.

It has damage imprinted on the reverse, take it back to the parking lot you found it in and with some sleuthing you should be able to match it up to the correct patch of asphalt.

Good question, his profile shows he has not logged in for months now, perhaps this place became too PC for him. There seems to be quite a few members here now that get triggered very easily. I hope he is ok and is just taking a break.

Just a touch of worthless strike or split plate doubling, worth one cent.

The 40-D will be tough unless you can find one that has just been made or crossed. The NGC census shows 3 in 67+ and one in 68, however I have not found even one of those four coins listed in any of the NGC registry sets I've looked at. Perhaps they are in private sets where the coins are not shown or listed, or they have been cracked and crossed for use in the PCGS registry. Either way you will have quite a challenge to find one in NGC plastic; but I hope you are able to find one. Not a coin that I really have any interest in chasing myself. Most of the time these sell for around 1K and up vs an MS67 which usually sells around $125 and the registry only gives you a 20 point bump from MS67 to MS67+, too much expense given the low reward imo.

@Oldhoopster is correct the number five in the date took a hit that moved some metal and made it look more like a 9. Value is just one cent.

Darn now I have to add you to the invite list. Good to see that your ok.

Thank you for that extra info and clarification on what you are looking to liquidate. Using the NGC guide is not going to be super helpful for raw coins because for the most part the guide takes into account the cost of having the coins certified. As an example a raw common date Morgan dollar in low uncirculated condition in todays market is selling around $40 each, because it costs $40+ to have each coin graded and slabbed the going rate for a generic date and grade is roughly $75-$95 for graded coins. The problem again is that this ratio changes as the rarity and value of the coin goes up so its not really possible to use a straight ratio, its just not a one size fits all type of problem. My suggestion to you is first determine the grade of each coin you have. That sounds simple but can be challenging to non collectors, I find that for most a visual guide is the easiest way to judge the grade of your coin. For this I recommend Photograde, take one coin and compare it to the different grades on the app until you find one that as closely as possible matches your coin. Second use the redbook (available at most public libraries) to determine which coins are very common vs those that are more rare. In the redbook you will find the mintages for each coin and a value for each coin (biased on your grade assessment) at the time the book was printed. That will allow you to get a feel for the overall value, then you can go to ebay and as was suggested before you can search the sold listings for your coin and grade to see what the retail market is at this time. Please be critical with the coins do not over grade and identify any coins that are damaged (bent, holed, or severely scraped or gouged) as those problems will reduce the value of the coins, sometimes by quite a bit. All this will take some time and effort on your part and if you decide that you would rather skip all that then I suggest you find a local coin shop (or two if possible) and see what those shops would offer you for your coins. While this option will be much quicker you should expect to receive much less then you would by selling yourself 50-60% less on average. A better option might be to see if there are any coin clubs in your area, often times you can get help there from other collectors and it may in turn provide you an opportunity to find some potential buyers. Unfortunately selling coins does require some upfront research but if you take your time stay organized and be honest and critical in your grade assessments you should have no problems getting through it. We are happy to help if you have any questions or to provide some assessments on any coins that you are just not sure about, if you post some clear in focus photos we can usually get you in the ballpark grade wise and determine if there are any issues with the coin. I wish it was as simple as if this do that, but it really is not most of the time. Best of luck.

Very nice coins, love the old soap bar holder Lincoln.

Welcome to the forum, unfortunately there is no perfect ratio or formula that can be applied to set coin prices. Each coin is weighed on its own merits and faults by the market. You have to do some research and see where the market is for each coin at this point in time. You did not say but from your comment I am assuming that you are looking to sell some NGC graded coins not raw coins. I suggest that you start by looking at the NGC coin explorer to see recent auction prices for the coins you have to sell in each grade, I use this to set the low retail price. Then look at ebay sold listings (its very important to look at the sold listings not the current asking prices as those can be wildly different), those sold prices are how I set the high retail price. If you have any coins that are CAC approved you can also look at the CAC website for their price guideline and compare that with your other research. Now you have the information to set a basic bell curve price guidelines for yourself, next you have to decide if your coins fall in the upper portion of that curve or the lower and set your asking prices accordingly. Provide good photos so that people can see what you have to sell and your ready; best of luck with the coins you want to sell.

Whew, I'm glad that you posted those second photos, I was really conflicted by the first set as they made the coin look polished. As you know the coin is a solid AU (not withstanding RWB's old school grading) AU58 details that would likely grade as AU55 or AU53 (on a bad day) due to the hits on the cheek and the amount of circulation wear that is showing in the fields. Congrats on completing the set with a very nice looking example; so what is next?

Congrats on making that 40-S Lincoln in 67+, I noticed that the pop increased when you added it to your set so I'm assuming you or someone you know made or crossed it.

Sounds like my wife, if something is sitting on the counter for more than five minutes she automatically assumes it must not be needed and is headed for the trash. My office is the only place off limits to her decluttering needs.

Welcome to the forum, yep not much doubt that you have a copy.

As @Oldhoopster said unless you I or Bob were there it is impossible to know the why and how. One possible reason; out of many possible reasons; is that the coin many have been in the ground for an extended period of time and some acid or cleaning agent was used to remove the crud and grime from the coin. Also remember that there was a time when this coin was just another cent that may have fallen into a vat of some acidic substance at some factory in the late 1800's. I'm sure that I and others can come up with many other guesses but at the end of the day it really does not matter, the coin is badly damaged and just is what it is.

I call shotgun!!