Coinbuf

Looks like it was stamped into the coin to commemorate an event, perhaps birth/passing years, no way to know for sure. IT was not done at the mint and is not an error.

From your photos I do not see it going PL, and as it is already graded the chance of a * added seems slight.

It looks like a corrosion/carbon spot on the C, if there is actually a depression or hole in the center of the memorial that could be a strike thru perhaps or it could be damage. See if you can get an in focus tight shot of that.

No updates have been forthcoming from anyone at NGC, I assume that covid knocked this project onto the way back burner.

Welcome to the forum Steve, get back to us with some photos.

Not a direct correlation, I have seen floating roofs with full initials, with partial initials, and no initials. This was originally considered (or perhaps just marketed) as a mint error or variety for many years, I guess in some ways it kind of is. This happened because the dies were lapped/polished and overused to the point that the design lost the roof uprights and often the initials. In that regard this is the same as the 3 legged buffalo or the 1969-D Lincoln missing initials (which actually is a variety), just that those coins got the promotion it takes to be a recognized variety while the floating roof did not. As such the floating roof does not add any value to a coin at all, even if it truly can be considered a floating roof. That however has not stopped people from holding onto or attempting to sell these even today. I think the floating roof concept may have possibly started with a fellow by the name of Frank Spadone, he published a book back in the sixties (I think in the sixties) that catalogued a ton of very obscure errors and varieties. Most of what was in those books have been found to not be any type of error or variety now, but a few of the more interesting phrases have lived on. I have not been able to directly tie him to the floating roof, partly as I do not have a copy of that book, nor have I ever found a source of who or where the phrase definitively came from. But I have seen his name mentioned as connected to this over the years as I have looked into it. It is my opinion that dealers seized this opportunity to use the catchy name and sell some coins that really had no value at higher prices to collectors as rare or valuable errors back when the coin business was all raw coins. We know today how this occurred and know that it is not important, but that has not stopped the hype and people still push this to the public as collectable on many of the social media sites like youtube.

I really do not understand your opening post, why do you think you cannot use ebay? And use ebay for what, selling this coin? And what are "those" coins that you think this exceeds?

Any version of the red book can help you with the basic info, obviously the pricing will be out of date but that is not a problem for your needs to start with.

It is a really really bad fake, so in that sense it is real.

Not a DDO, just machine doubling, maybe it would be considered a floating roof but in that condition I do not see it adding any premium.

Welcome to the forum, I agree with Mike's assessment, the coin looks to be AU details but possibly with some marks from being wiped at some time. This coin is a Seated Liberty half dollar, this design was used on the half dollar starting in 1839 until 1891. The front of the coin, called the obverse, stayed the same but the reverse side had a few design changes during the time it was in production. The "O" under the eagle on the reverse is the mintmark and shows that this coin was produced at the New Orleans mint. I want to take this opportunity to strongly urge you not try and improve any of the coins, many people that have recently inherited old coins mistakenly think that shinny is better, in the case of coins that is incorrect. Many go to youtube and find videos on how to clean coins, however what those videos do not say is that you're much more likely to damage and in many cases strip the coin of all its numismatic value using the acidic and harsh cleaning methods these videos recommend. Handle the coins by the edge only and just leave them as they are. If your intent is to sell these coins then I suggest that you find a coin shop or three close to you and ask the store owners to provide you with an estimate of what each would pay for the coins. Keep in mind that the owner will not pay you full retail value as he then needs to mark the coins up if you sell to him. You do not have to sell them to any shop, but that should give you a ballpark idea of the value. If you plan to keep the coins then there are several inexpensive ways to store them and keep them protected from any damage in the future. We are certainly happy to help you figure some basic values also, keeping in mind that we only have photos to judge the coins which is far less perfect than seeing them in hand. Best if you sort the coins into types, cents, dimes, etc... if you have access to Excel you could build a simple spreadsheet with basic information like dates, mintmarks, denominations, and post that first for some insight on which coins are likely to be most valuable. You might also want to see if your local library has a copy of "A Guide Book Of United States Coins" commonly called the red book. This will give a brief description of the coins and has some pricing information, do not rely on the prices as they are often not relevant as the market changes during the year after the book is published. But those prices are helpful to you to be able to understand which coins may be the most valuable.

It appears to be a special label done for HSN, just a marketing gimmick.

Great looking 57 CAM Lee.

It is great that you want to bond with your daughter over coin collecting, I sure wish that either of my two daughters had shown any interest in coin collecting. Keep in mind that 99% of the people on this forum are not employed by NGC, we are just collectors and dealers that are freely sharing our many years of experience when we answer your questions. While you may want a more detailed explanation this is our free time that we are donating to help the hobby, so when we know what we are looking at (bty thanks for the excellent photos as that helps us to give you answers) we simply answer the question without writing a book on it. In order to learn you must be willing to accept the information, that is why in many threads you will see several posts all saying the same thing, we are corroborating the information that you have already received. If you really want to bond with your daughter then I suggest that some time spent reading and learning about the process of how coins are made now and throughout history would be the best thing you can do for yourself and her. That way you and she will learn how a coin is made and conversely how the type of damage you see on your coin in this thread could not have been done during the minting process. There are many references available sometimes at your local library, one such resource is a book titled "From Mine to Mint" written by one of our forum members. Once you have some knowledge you will be in a better position to teach her and begin to collect, knowledge first collect second.

Well first if you notice on the op's (Jacob) avatar he listed Denver Colorado as home. Second, he (Jacob) has not logged in here since the day after he started this thread just over 3 years ago, so it seems rather unlikely that he will respond to your post. Third the damage to your coin and that of the OP may look similar at first but really they are not alike and far from identical as his has some design showing in the center of the reverse while yours has nothing left of the design in the center of the reverse. And forth it is not at all hard to believe that two coins can have similar damage from two different washing machines. Also, there are plenty of rip off artists that attempt to create the look of a real mint error (like a true broadstrike) using a grinder or sander in order to sell to an unknowledgeable buyer, stuff like this pops up for sale all the time on social media sites as well as places like Etsy.

I have not tried dipping a nickel, proof or business strike. However, I have seen a few before/after photos posted on various forums in past years so I know it can be done, I assume the dip must be highly diluted, but again I've never tried it myself.

We ae somewhat weird. What you have is a normal coin that has been beat up during its travels in circulation. Coins get used for lots of proposes other than to buy things, many are at times used as tool, say you need to screw in a slot head screw but do not have a screwdriver. The penny comes to the rescue and does the job, however copper is very soft and can be easily damaged when used (or abused) in such a manor. This one looks to have spent some time in a parking lot, run over by cars and carts which has damaged the coin and left it with many scrapes and cuts. All of these damage is covered under the blanket term PMD (post mint damage), the coin did not leave the mint looking like this.

Yuck , It may dip off if it hasn't etched the surface.

That is part of the design, perhaps you noticed it due to the die break but normal. I noticed as I view images for this coin that part of the design is more pronounced on the coins for circulation vs the proofs. Here is a photo I pulled from ebay of a proof coin, you can see the same design feature just not as strongly separated.

Welcome to the forum, that is not an error nor was that mark a product of the coining of the coin. That is a reed mark, another coin with a reeded edge hit that coin and left the impression of the reeds on the cheek. Very common, not an error, no added value over the $.10 face value.

I would not for any financial reasons, perhaps if you have some personal reason or attachment. Looks like an XF maybe slide into a low AU grade from the photos, I just checked auction results and even MS63 and MS64's are crossing the block at sub $100. Not saying that you could not find someone who is not knowledgeable in coins that might pay enough to cover the costs plus a buck or two, but I would not bet on it.

The photos are not helping the cause, the white balance looks off and a single harsh light source is not giving us a very good look at the color or surfaces. Having said that this looks like a cleaned and retoned AU slider, if I only had these photos to make a decision from I would turn and run away. @Woods020 mentioned that pullaway effect that you see around the stars and lettering of the obverse, that indeed is a common sign that the toning might be natural. However, on the reverse you see none of that, the colors run right up and over the design and lettering elements. As to sending in you already have an opinion from an NGC expert, Mr. Lange, so spending the money to get this back as AU details cleaned or questionable color would not be advisable.

I found my first two quarters with the new obverse design today. I was not a fan of the mint photos and I can say I'm equally less than impressed after seeing this in hand. Also found another W quarter too, this is the 9th or 10th American Memorial W quarter I've found so far.

Good luck, hope the show goes well for you!

Can you link the thread that you read from 2019: I suspect that you missed some info on that thread. Greenstang is correct and here is a site with some information on how a broad strike error happens and what one looks like, if you scroll down to the second example in the article you can see that your coin looks nothing like a true broad strike. broadstrike