JKK

So let's see. One person has said they are inflated. One strongly suspects AT. One has even identified the seller without prompting as a known purveyor of deceptive photography. What part of any of that reflects any credit on this seller that would make you think that was a good place to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars?

So let's see. One person has said they are inflated. One strongly suspects AT. One has even identified the seller without prompting as a known purveyor of deceptive photography. What part of any of that reflects any credit on this seller that would make you think that was a good place to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars?

So let's see. One person has said they are inflated. One strongly suspects AT. One has even identified the seller without prompting as a known purveyor of deceptive photography. What part of any of that reflects any credit on this seller that would make you think that was a good place to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars?

Selling it is unlikely, unless you find someone who imagines it to be an error rather than a simple damaged coin. My suggestion is not to get your heart broken too much when you are new to the world of coins. Start by assuming there's probably a mundane and low-value explanation for whatever you're seeing, and then be pleasantly surprised if you come up with an actual error.

Obtain: a Red Book.
Safeguard: protect loose coins from damage where they might lose value.
Segregate: by country, denomination, then type is the usual way. A red book helps you know when a change is not obvious, such as the dropping of silver from most US coins in 1965.
Summarize: count up the overall numbers.
Document: make a spreadsheet. Consider simply totaling up types of common coins (typically bulk silver). List separately coins to be looked up, individually graded, or researched.
Divide: for those that have retail premiums rather than just bullion value, take about 50% of the premium and figure that's what a dealer gives you. A private collector, more like 70% is fair. For bullion value coins, take about 90% of melt.
Total it up. You now have a pretty good idea what you could expect to realize, with ID errors or grading newbism your main variables.

Obtain: a Red Book.
Safeguard: protect loose coins from damage where they might lose value.
Segregate: by country, denomination, then type is the usual way. A red book helps you know when a change is not obvious, such as the dropping of silver from most US coins in 1965.
Summarize: count up the overall numbers.
Document: make a spreadsheet. Consider simply totaling up types of common coins (typically bulk silver). List separately coins to be looked up, individually graded, or researched.
Divide: for those that have retail premiums rather than just bullion value, take about 50% of the premium and figure that's what a dealer gives you. A private collector, more like 70% is fair. For bullion value coins, take about 90% of melt.
Total it up. You now have a pretty good idea what you could expect to realize, with ID errors or grading newbism your main variables.

Obtain: a Red Book.
Safeguard: protect loose coins from damage where they might lose value.
Segregate: by country, denomination, then type is the usual way. A red book helps you know when a change is not obvious, such as the dropping of silver from most US coins in 1965.
Summarize: count up the overall numbers.
Document: make a spreadsheet. Consider simply totaling up types of common coins (typically bulk silver). List separately coins to be looked up, individually graded, or researched.
Divide: for those that have retail premiums rather than just bullion value, take about 50% of the premium and figure that's what a dealer gives you. A private collector, more like 70% is fair. For bullion value coins, take about 90% of melt.
Total it up. You now have a pretty good idea what you could expect to realize, with ID errors or grading newbism your main variables.

Looks Venetian. The key there is to figure out which Doge they are talking about. To start playing doge ball, I would start looking up the legend. I did so and came up with Alois Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 1722-1736 AD.

I'll translate: "I didn't get the validation I sought. Therefore, you all are mean and wrong and bad."

Looks Venetian. The key there is to figure out which Doge they are talking about. To start playing doge ball, I would start looking up the legend. I did so and came up with Alois Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 1722-1736 AD.

Looks Venetian. The key there is to figure out which Doge they are talking about. To start playing doge ball, I would start looking up the legend. I did so and came up with Alois Mocenigo, Doge of Venice 1722-1736 AD.

If you had a Red Book, you would be less afraid. You would be able to look up the issue (meaning date/mint combo), see the relative values (high retail) across grades, and answer your own question. Not that I'm discouraging you from asking, but I hate to think of someone being afraid.
The more sought-after errors are listed in the price tables, so that will alert you. Let us take the nicest of those Barbs, the 1902. No mint mark. Now my red book is way out of date, but it will serve the purpose. I look up in Dimes and come to a stop at the Barbers. I see that the 1902 has a much higher mintage than 02-S or 02-O, and that the S is not exactly expensive but is worth neighborhood of triple the Philadephia coin--and that's in G-4. I see that there are no well-known errors in this issue, nothing like the three-legged Buffalo nickel or the 42/1 Merc overdate, etc. I see that this coin's high retail was about $8 in VF when my version came out; jumped to $110 for MS-60.
So what that tells me is that unless I think this dime is uncirculated (which it manifestly is not, not even close), spending $50 or so to have it put in plastic makes no financial sense. It might make numismatic sense if you just loved that coin for some reason, but you'd never make that $50 back in value unless it were up above MS-63 ($170). Even in that case, well, it's questionable. Mine gives it $500 for a PF-63--if you had one of those, yeah, most people would say that's a good way to keep it PF-63 and make sure it really gets that grade, perhaps better. But it manifestly is not. The Red Book has basic grading information and that part would certainly tell you so.
This is why people nag everyone to get a Red Book. It can bridge the gap between "omg could I be sitting on treasure" and "I should not spend too much time on this one." It's where fear goes away.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

If you had a Red Book, you would be less afraid. You would be able to look up the issue (meaning date/mint combo), see the relative values (high retail) across grades, and answer your own question. Not that I'm discouraging you from asking, but I hate to think of someone being afraid.
The more sought-after errors are listed in the price tables, so that will alert you. Let us take the nicest of those Barbs, the 1902. No mint mark. Now my red book is way out of date, but it will serve the purpose. I look up in Dimes and come to a stop at the Barbers. I see that the 1902 has a much higher mintage than 02-S or 02-O, and that the S is not exactly expensive but is worth neighborhood of triple the Philadephia coin--and that's in G-4. I see that there are no well-known errors in this issue, nothing like the three-legged Buffalo nickel or the 42/1 Merc overdate, etc. I see that this coin's high retail was about $8 in VF when my version came out; jumped to $110 for MS-60.
So what that tells me is that unless I think this dime is uncirculated (which it manifestly is not, not even close), spending $50 or so to have it put in plastic makes no financial sense. It might make numismatic sense if you just loved that coin for some reason, but you'd never make that $50 back in value unless it were up above MS-63 ($170). Even in that case, well, it's questionable. Mine gives it $500 for a PF-63--if you had one of those, yeah, most people would say that's a good way to keep it PF-63 and make sure it really gets that grade, perhaps better. But it manifestly is not. The Red Book has basic grading information and that part would certainly tell you so.
This is why people nag everyone to get a Red Book. It can bridge the gap between "omg could I be sitting on treasure" and "I should not spend too much time on this one." It's where fear goes away.

Seems reasonable. Other examples easily viewable have the diacritical.

Respect for being realistic about the probabilities.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

Sorry, your coin has PMD.

If I understand the distinction--and I might be totally off base here--DDD is indicated when the shelves are toward the rim side of devices even when they appear on opposite sides of the coin (as in left of device vs. right, not obv vs. rev). I think normal MD is more imitative of the way a doubled die happens, in that the planchet moves and creates the smooshing so that it's very pronounced on one side and less so on another depending on where the center of the strike is/moves relative to the planchet's center (in a proper strike, the two are exactly the same). Key difference, of course, being that a doubled die happens to the die, whereas MD happens to a strike by a die.
Again, if that's all wet, someone should correct me. Since I do not much care about errors, I've only paid attention to the subject in order to distinguish MD from DDs and am not expert on the minting process.

I'm over it. When you can't pose a question with fewer periods than a Golden Girls reunion, your writing is illegible and you show zero respect for your readers. In such a case, there is no reason for the readers to bother.