JKK

It's almost surely not gold. If you want more opinions, you could always get in touch with the Tacoma-Lakewood Coin Club. They are a member club of the PNNA, as is mine (Willamette, in Portland), and would surely be able to help you with any numismatic advice you might need.

The value is $0.10. I don't recommend trying it in the coke machine.

The default answer is "none of them." There are financial and emotional reasons to send in coins. In the former, you're gambling (and it is a huge gamble for those new to the hobby) that you'll gain $65ish in value by having them slabbed. If there's minimal chance of that, ask yourself whether you would rather have a piece of plastic that probably says "EF Details -- Cleaned," versus what kind of coin you could buy for $65. In the latter, you're doing it because for whatever reason you heart that coin; maybe it's from your childhood, maybe it's one of Bampaw's (typically overgraded and overspent for) coins and you remember him fondly. If so, okay--but you could put it in an Airtite or some other solid holder for far less money.
My theory is that new collectors who want to "do things right" figure that this means having them graded. No, nope, nah, not true. I've never sent a coin in for grading and probably will not, and I have at least a respectable collection. Decide why you want to grade them, then use good sense, and you'll end up probably much better off.

The default answer is "none of them." There are financial and emotional reasons to send in coins. In the former, you're gambling (and it is a huge gamble for those new to the hobby) that you'll gain $65ish in value by having them slabbed. If there's minimal chance of that, ask yourself whether you would rather have a piece of plastic that probably says "EF Details -- Cleaned," versus what kind of coin you could buy for $65. In the latter, you're doing it because for whatever reason you heart that coin; maybe it's from your childhood, maybe it's one of Bampaw's (typically overgraded and overspent for) coins and you remember him fondly. If so, okay--but you could put it in an Airtite or some other solid holder for far less money.
My theory is that new collectors who want to "do things right" figure that this means having them graded. No, nope, nah, not true. I've never sent a coin in for grading and probably will not, and I have at least a respectable collection. Decide why you want to grade them, then use good sense, and you'll end up probably much better off.

The default answer is "none of them." There are financial and emotional reasons to send in coins. In the former, you're gambling (and it is a huge gamble for those new to the hobby) that you'll gain $65ish in value by having them slabbed. If there's minimal chance of that, ask yourself whether you would rather have a piece of plastic that probably says "EF Details -- Cleaned," versus what kind of coin you could buy for $65. In the latter, you're doing it because for whatever reason you heart that coin; maybe it's from your childhood, maybe it's one of Bampaw's (typically overgraded and overspent for) coins and you remember him fondly. If so, okay--but you could put it in an Airtite or some other solid holder for far less money.
My theory is that new collectors who want to "do things right" figure that this means having them graded. No, nope, nah, not true. I've never sent a coin in for grading and probably will not, and I have at least a respectable collection. Decide why you want to grade them, then use good sense, and you'll end up probably much better off.

The default answer is "none of them." There are financial and emotional reasons to send in coins. In the former, you're gambling (and it is a huge gamble for those new to the hobby) that you'll gain $65ish in value by having them slabbed. If there's minimal chance of that, ask yourself whether you would rather have a piece of plastic that probably says "EF Details -- Cleaned," versus what kind of coin you could buy for $65. In the latter, you're doing it because for whatever reason you heart that coin; maybe it's from your childhood, maybe it's one of Bampaw's (typically overgraded and overspent for) coins and you remember him fondly. If so, okay--but you could put it in an Airtite or some other solid holder for far less money.
My theory is that new collectors who want to "do things right" figure that this means having them graded. No, nope, nah, not true. I've never sent a coin in for grading and probably will not, and I have at least a respectable collection. Decide why you want to grade them, then use good sense, and you'll end up probably much better off.

And there it is. If it's all about building wealth, without precious metals involved, the question is whether one believes that markets will return 9-11% over their investment horizon (more if one is younger or has a greater volatility tolerance, and goes with small-cap index ETFs). If one says no, that won't happen, then that's one thing (and opens other cans of worms). If one says yes, that's reasonable to expect, then the question is how the coin could possibly be expected to appreciate in similar fashion (including the reinvested dividends that such ETFs will offer). That's the eyes-wide-open approach--if it's really about a nest egg. One might do well to take the value of a typical 1940 Lincoln cent, say EF, and determine its value today if it were set aside in, say, 1958 when the memorial reverse changed the type.

And there it is. If it's all about building wealth, without precious metals involved, the question is whether one believes that markets will return 9-11% over their investment horizon (more if one is younger or has a greater volatility tolerance, and goes with small-cap index ETFs). If one says no, that won't happen, then that's one thing (and opens other cans of worms). If one says yes, that's reasonable to expect, then the question is how the coin could possibly be expected to appreciate in similar fashion (including the reinvested dividends that such ETFs will offer). That's the eyes-wide-open approach--if it's really about a nest egg. One might do well to take the value of a typical 1940 Lincoln cent, say EF, and determine its value today if it were set aside in, say, 1958 when the memorial reverse changed the type.

'Stang and Sharann are correct. Not an error, PMD. If you want some confirmation, weigh them both. The worn one should be notably lighter due to metal loss; I'd guess at 10%+, though the lack of wear on the reverse (where normally there is just as much wear as on the obverse of a worn coin) hints that it might be less than 10%.

Acid doesn't melt coins; it attacks them. As for this quarter, it's not a mint error. It's an abused quarter.

Your question has a number of what if's, and unknown variables to answer.   First what does "very nice condition" mean to you?   AU, MS63, MS68, very nice condition may very well mean something very different to you than to myself.   Second you seem to assume that people will still collect coins in the future, they very well may do so (and I hope so) but that is not a known event.   The government is working and planning to move to a cashless society in the near future, so coins may only continue to be made to sell to collectors vs for use in circulating commerce.   If or when that happens all the coins produced and sold will be of very high quality, in fact it might be more valuable to find coins produced under that scenario that are worn as opposed to high grade coins.
As has already been pointed out, many common date high mintage coins of the past two centuries trade at or close to the spot value of the metal they are made from in the lower MS and AU grades.   Those are the type of coins you are most likely to pull from circulation, while not impossible to find the occasional high grade coin (by that I am talking MS68 or better) from your pocket, it is very rare.   Most very high grade modern coins come from mint sets or rolls of coins that never reached circulation, not from pocket change.
Another variable you seem to have left out is the time value of money.   With our current hyper inflation just in the time it took me to write this post the change in my pocket has less purchasing power, ok slight hyperbole but you get my point.   Coins of the previous centuries had real value because they were produced from a precious valuable metal, todays coins are made from base metals with no real value over the face value of the minted coin.   Chances are very high that if you hold vast quantities of todays coinage you will actually be losing value and purchasing power into the future.   And do not forget the physical storage it takes to save quantities of coins, I don't have it on my computer but there is a photo that I have seen posted on the PCGS forum of a guy that saved tons of cents.   He posted the photo of his garage full of 55 gallon plastic barrels each full to the top of cents, I cannot even imagine the cost to store and possibly move such a quantity of coins.
Coin collecting is a personal journey, and if saving lots of "pocket change" makes you happy then great do that, but if you are thinking that doing so is somehow a good storage of value or that you will be hailed as the savior of modern coinage, well that might be a stretch.    If your goal is to provide future wealth for your family then depositing your pocket change into an interest bearing account or getting a second job and putting those funds into a SPY fund will likely provide a much better return than searching and holding onto lots of modern change.

The only error is the one made by whatever yahoo damaged that perfectly good Merc, long after it had left the mint. I can only imagine how awful the effect was on the obverse. Normally I would throw in a barb here for not having shared both sides with us, but in this case I'm sure we were spared a truly sorry sight.

The only error is the one made by whatever yahoo damaged that perfectly good Merc, long after it had left the mint. I can only imagine how awful the effect was on the obverse. Normally I would throw in a barb here for not having shared both sides with us, but in this case I'm sure we were spared a truly sorry sight.

Replated. Common school chemistry experiment. Value is one cent.

Replated. Common school chemistry experiment. Value is one cent.

Without the weight and diameter, we're handicapped. However, I think your best candidate is BMC 3, Macedonia, Mende hemiobol. The animal is a braying donkey, not a horse. (Not being a wiseacre. Take me literally.) Look at the third one from the top.

Oh, and the reason they sell cleaners is to make money from the vast army of new collectors who imagine a coin has to be "shinny" (they usually can't spell, either) and that if they just shine it up, it'll somehow be more valuable, and no one will be able to tell. They are incorrect. We nearly always can tell when it's been cleaned. There are times, places, and people where the stars align for cleaning to make sense. Those people know who they are. Anyone who isn't one of them should be very hesitant, and should treat off-the-shelf cleaners as dangerous to coin value.

Oh, and the reason they sell cleaners is to make money from the vast army of new collectors who imagine a coin has to be "shinny" (they usually can't spell, either) and that if they just shine it up, it'll somehow be more valuable, and no one will be able to tell. They are incorrect. We nearly always can tell when it's been cleaned. There are times, places, and people where the stars align for cleaning to make sense. Those people know who they are. Anyone who isn't one of them should be very hesitant, and should treat off-the-shelf cleaners as dangerous to coin value.

Without going into too much detail--we do not do that here with regard to counterfeiting, to avoid giving helpful feedback to the bad guys who keep an eye on the board--the details look muddier and rougher than I'd expect. Some of that could be wear and damage; I do not know. These circulated in the Far East, as you know, and any coin that left a lot of examples in China is a major counterfeiting target. Doesn't mean that it is; it means that careful authentication is of above average importance.

It could be simply battered, but some aspects of it make me wonder about authenticity. What does it weigh? One decimal place, please. I notice a few chops on it, but those don't confirm authenticity. For one thing, chops also could be faked. Another clue is that this issue is evidently not common; there is a reason no one counterfeits, for example, 1964 Jeffs--but they counterfeit the holy living out of 09-S VDBs.

It could be simply battered, but some aspects of it make me wonder about authenticity. What does it weigh? One decimal place, please. I notice a few chops on it, but those don't confirm authenticity. For one thing, chops also could be faked. Another clue is that this issue is evidently not common; there is a reason no one counterfeits, for example, 1964 Jeffs--but they counterfeit the holy living out of 09-S VDBs.

No.
And I've already given you my opinion about your worthless videos trying to deceive people.
.
 

So let's see. One person has said they are inflated. One strongly suspects AT. One has even identified the seller without prompting as a known purveyor of deceptive photography. What part of any of that reflects any credit on this seller that would make you think that was a good place to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars?

So let's see. One person has said they are inflated. One strongly suspects AT. One has even identified the seller without prompting as a known purveyor of deceptive photography. What part of any of that reflects any credit on this seller that would make you think that was a good place to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars?

So let's see. One person has said they are inflated. One strongly suspects AT. One has even identified the seller without prompting as a known purveyor of deceptive photography. What part of any of that reflects any credit on this seller that would make you think that was a good place to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars?