jackson64

Absolutely superb coins and medals and wonderful pics/presentation. Congrats on the upcoming birth. I got my granddaughter interested in numismatics with simple purchase and display of things she loved. She did a school report on Tanzania, so I bought her a Tanzania coin with a beautiful butterfly on it. We went to Disney, and I got her a Mickey Mouse coin-- I also got her a Spiderman coin since that's her favorite superhero.

She has always been an animal lover, so I started her a themed set of "bear coins". She has a shelf displaying the Spiderman, Mickey and Tanzania coin in her room. The bear collection is too large to display but we pull them out occasionally and she likes to go through them. Now she says that wolves are her favorite animal so I might have to get her a few of those too...

Again, congrats on great coins/grades, your new home ( being closer to family is a blessing) and your wife's new job also! 

Cone top and steel beer cans from old, extinct breweries and brands-- some of the artwork on these early cans is wonderful.. Fortunately, the tack room in the stables stays mostly closed and weather resistant so I can display them there. My wife draws the line with my collecting when it comes to empty beer cans lining the walls in the house ..

They are nice pieces of Americana 

PCGS price guide for a 41-D MS67 FSB is $140...

rons.. nicely toned 1941-D at great collections--currently just $52 for this MS67FB.. bet it goes for < $200

19 hours ago, rons said:

You are saving money by being a year behind the issue. I collect modern commemoratives and find that their price drops after the initial excitement has subsided. How great is it to have a helper with your collecting?  Keep up the good work.

Agreed.. I have a Sacagawea proof set-- I always run a year or more behind but then remember I have them and often- with patience- even get the PF69DCAM date I need for around $10.

Rev-- I also have a set of these 2 oz coins. Since I only buy 1 each and keep them raw, I usually get them when released ( the 2020 White Lion coin was purchased a few months ago.) I actually saw the opposite happen with this series though, as the Falcon and a few other Beasts actually kept getting higher in price as time passed.

Ray said, "I am not belittling PCGS or collectors that have them but you have to agree the grades they place on coins is not of the same quality as an NGC grade." 

Actually, I don't have to agree-- and neither do a large percentage of decades-long numismatists. And even though PCGS coins sell at a premium, often, above NGC coins of same grade/series, I would not agree that PCGS grading is superior either.

I don't know what series you collect, but it would be a HUGE sacrifice to collect many of the classic series coins without buying PCGS coins. First, there are some series that appear to be almost 80%+ PCGS holdered, so if you are limited to selecting from the 20% of NGC slabs, then the quality of your collection suffers. Many series and dates may only have a few dozen coins THAT EXIST in the grade range in accordance with one's budget- and PCGS standards WERE actually higher for many years.

The bottom line is, I am an NGC registry collector and send my submissions to NGC because of the service and quick returns ( relatively) however I am not a "rah rah" type who has to be close-minded into joining a red team or blue team and then talking smack about the other. As Walker fan says-- there are beauties and dogs in both holders (NGC had its dog years too and I could post pics of dozens of ugly, harshly-cleaned, over-graded coins in either slab.) It is good for the registry ( especially as a tool for collectors to organize, photo, list, show-off collections) to have the best coins-- now with PCGS holders allowed again, I can hunt for the nicest coin I can find to fill a slot--not just the nicest NGC holdered coin available. 

I must question-- should a true numismatist have such blind corporate/brand loyalty? Does the RahRah Ford guy refuse his uncle's classic vette from the inheritance? Wrong label?.. not even an apt comparison because the RahRah coin guy is being loyal to a plastic holder and not the actual coins.....

 I also noticed a marked drop in registry participation after NGC precluded PCGS graded coins -- large drops in the chat rooms, journals and waning interest in general participation even if coins were still being collected ( myself included).

I find those labels annoying actually. I have a few yearly sets and I like the holders to match ( for the most part.).. Having a complete set of Burnished ASE's SP70's but one of them is in a weird blue labeled holder does not give the set the orderly feel I like...…. ( I also have a complete Proof Ike dollar set but 2 of the labels are "photo labels" and the coins are in the holders backwards.

I've written posts about the annoyance of some foreign coin sets where 25 of 30 coins put the queen's bust on the label side but 4 or 5 coins have the reverse on the label side???? Makes no sense.....

On 12/4/2019 at 2:12 PM, Six Mile Rick said:

Well, I myself trust the USPS. All packages I have sent have been well wrapped and padded with insurance added. Well over 1000 packages sent and always a well tracked and complete shipment.

Maybe one or two over the past 15 years with USPS, and those were coins under $50 I thought I'd risk with first class...….. As an aside, the Flat Rate small box was just $4 a few years ago and now is almost $8! Couple that with the ebay sales tax and a combined 10% on seller's fees and paypal and coin collecting's "surcharges" seem to be skyrocketing.

That coin looks so much more defined-- from fingers, mountains to simple lettering ( has "depth").. they did a fantastic job and kudos to you for preserving such a fine coin.

8 hours ago, gherrmann44 said:

I'm loving it Jackson! My own 7070 has brought me countless hours of enjoyment and knowledge. Right now I'm working on potential upgrades such as an arrows date for the obverse legend dime slot instead of the 1876 XF dime I have in that slot now. The 7070 has slots specific to the 1853-55 arrows coins but none for the 1873-74 coins. This is why I'm looking for that arrows dime to represent them all. Your choice of the twenty cent piece to represent the Carson City Mint is an excellent choice. Congratulations on your find. Gary

You make an excellent point which I have groused about-- the 7070 for all of its variety does not go far enough! The half dollar type sets include separate slots for the 1873/74 arrows coins ( as do the other seated coinage issues).. also I would have liked to have holes for certain series that technically have had more modest changes that are delineated within the series-- examples would be the various types of 3 cent silver coins and  "type 2" and "type 3" standing liberty quarter slots--among others. But it is still a blast with always something to search for when you have this kind of variety.

You may not like the answer but I believe that if you sent in PCGS to NGC or NGC to PCGS as a crossover then it really is about ego with the graders. I have about 50% same or upgrade with ANACS small slabs ( quite a few actually go up) but the big 2 almost universally downgrade 75% of the time.

As an aside, I forget who did it but a collector/member tried an experiment a few years ago and posted the process on the chat boards/forums here. He sent in 20 ASE's and received MS69 and 70's on all 20 coins-- he documented each coin and photographed the process as he cracked out each coin and re-submitted them ( line by line and numbered on the submission form for accuracy).. the result? 13 of the 20 coins changed grades!-- with 6 former 69's becoming 70's and 7 70's dropping to 69's... I believe personally that as well as coins are minted and packaged today that 69 or 70 are indistinguishable 90% of the time.

Another story to finish-- I had a 1917-D reverse Walking Liberty Half graded as MS62 and felt it was nicer ( plus the price jumped, at the time, from $1500 in MS62 to over $2000 in 63).. I sent that sucker in TWICE for grade review and the coin was just sent back to me at the same grade with an invoice. I was so frustrated I ended up selling it to a dealer friend of mine for cash and a St Gaudens generic. Long story short, he sent it in again to NGC but this time cracked out of the PCGS holder -- he got an MS64 grade which was over $3500 back then. Never was sure whether it was because of his dealer status or the fact it was not in a PCGS holder but he got a significant 2 grade jump where I just got a charge on my debit card.

I have a discerning eye for Walkers and have 3 coins that I KNOW are undergraded or at least would be an easy + if sent by a dealer, but I will never waste the money again on regrades or crossovers.-- Crackouts are another story however, I have had some hit/miss luck with those ( but then the risk of a coin in a current NGC slab coming back as ungradeable is a big risk too as I have had about a half dozen NGC crackouts come back in a bodybag as "artificially toned" or "cleaned" when the coin was untouched from slab to flip to grader)

Thanks everyone-- has been on my office desk all week and I've picked it up a dozen times at least and just soaked it in-- love a nice burnished silver coin's luster.

On ‎9‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 9:11 PM, deposito said:

I want them to go up.  Later. 

I feel the same way about silver and gold bullion ! For now I'm still adding the occasional roll of ASE's, maple leafs etc and like to spend under $20 an ounce. The next true upward bounce might finish off my bullion acquisitions if it's back to $500+ a roll. For now, while I'm a buyer and 10+ years away from retirement, let coins and PM's stay affordable!

well done! So what's your next objective? Any sets in the works?

Great post-- and kudos to the local dealer for such great contributions/prizes for your club. I guess this is another downside to living in the sticks, 50 miles from the nearest larger city/town.. not enough folks for a club activity that size.

I think we must remember that the average Ebay seller is looking at  around 10% costs for shipping, seller fees and paypal fees... so $350 seems about right when we consider melt at $300 PLUS $30 in fees placing the coin/fees at $330 for the seller. If he sells at $325 then once fees are factored, he might even be selling at below melt!

I think the crazy ones are the ones who sell common date gold at the Auction Houses. Take an average 2016 MS69 AGE 1 ounce-- I see this type of coin at various auctions often ( Heritage, Great Collections, Stacks etc). Currently at $1500 or so as bullion.......

Seller fees are often 10% or more but let's just say 10%.. that means someone would need to bid $1650 to break even for the seller ( obtain bullion base value). What really happens is most auction houses (GC being excepted) have a 15 to 20% buyer's fee also. So buyer's are not going to bid above bullion for common date gold, not in conditional rarity. They will factor the buyer's fee in their bids.... so a 1 ounce common gold coin may sell for $200-300 less than melt at these auctions ( happens all the time, look at auction histories for proof)...

In the end, selling a gold coin at auction might see a $1300 winning bid, another $130 deducted for seller/consignment fee and the random other costs to ship to seller etc...The consignor ends up with $1150 for a $1500 bullion coin and the Auction house profits $300+ for simply receiving shipment and mailing to a new owner....

PS: Gary, I have lots of gold and silver bullion that I have bought that is still below my costs. Always expected it as long-term holdings but the blatant manipulation of bullion prices is frustrating. Paper shorts and vast paper gold vs physical gold/silver has been used for over a decade to keep the worthless dollar as king. I have to even admit to having 100 silver eagles tucked away that I spent $3000 on ! Gonna be awhile before I recoup those losses...

Thanks everyone--especially to all of my fellow Walkerfans ( CBC and Bob included)-- I know she is a little soft on the reverse strike but I felt the eye appeal, luster and miniscule amount of ticks made it a solid 67 overall.... anyone want to buy a beautiful MS66 and try for a crackout shot at 67 or 66+?..

I used topical coins with my granddaughter--- I found  Tanzanian coins with butterflies and also several Spiderman coins.. ( did her geography report on Tanzania and loves butterflies and Spiderman).

There are lots of super hero coins out there if he likes them

PS: if you think it will help jump starting his interest--I have some of the old, brass game tokens in one of my stashes....PM me an address and I'll shoot some various tokens your way ( might even have some old transit tokens from different cities in these mish mash boxes too-- could be nice transitional pieces from game tokens toward coins.............

Great story--thanks for sharing this with us................

I've also been enjoying the Queen's beasts coins. I also have kept mine all raw in capsules. Bought the 2019 Falcon coin so I have all 6 ( but just one set of each)--probably will leave a great amount of my coins to the granddaughter as she is my only grandchild to date and has shown tons more interest in coins than either of my daughters.

You know Tom, I hadn't considered that someone might go to the extreme of adding a MM for the sake of filling a pesky hole in their own album collection. Maybe there was never any intent to re-sell or defraud anyone but just trying to fool themselves ( or anyone they might show their collection to)--- either way, a coin microscope, or even my 50x zoom Sony Cybershot hx300 would certainly be able to create a full-screen, clear image and see if the D was added or has smooth flowing metal around it's base...

Would have loved to have worked at a coin shop in my youth--or even part-time when I retire in 20 years or so. Alas, I think the brick and mortar coin shoppes are passing ( unless they just use it as a face for an online business.)

Did a little research for you--found something peculiar-- most of the 1936-D coins I looked at with some circulation seem to have the dark area around the D mintmark. Zooming in very close, it appears as if the MM was stamped a bit hard on the die and has left a slight concavity around the "D" which seems to fill with residue/oils/dirt etc....

Most 1936-D's on Ebay have asking prices of about $60 for XF quality ( jumps to $150 ask for a nice AU) but the ones actually selling at auction on ebay are going around $35 in XF...

Here's some pics showing the strange, repeat occurance of "the dirty D"

The black around the 36-D mintmark may just be an unfortunate coincidence also as those little dark spots pop up randomly on 80 year old coins ( on Indian Cents they are common and requires a lot of time and discipline to build a set with none) also have seen those black dots pretty commonly on SLQ's.

Don't think anyone would go to the time and effort to add a "D" on an MS63 or below non-scarce coin that can be found for $50 or less.

The 32-S is solid and your 32-D could go either way since the high points on the obverse appear to have the very slightest "slider" hints but the reverse does not have patina breaks or flat/dull coloring on the top of the wings or eagle's breast--I'd guess it as a 62...........