Woods020

*you have the doubleD eye blues 😁

Neat find. I haven’t seen one of those

Mechanical doubling

The Morgans will come back 69/70 for 99% of them more than likely. Pre sale 70s are people that have bought up a large amount. Many dealers have ways of obtaining them in bulk by getting other bidders for them. So if they have say 10 coming in they can pretty safely say 3 or 4 will be 70 if not the majority. It’s simple averages.

The mint actually doesn’t call the Morgan a proof or business strike that I can find. I’m sure they will get special treatment at a minimum. Spider it is also important to note that grading accounts for anything that happens after the striking. Often times the damage occurs during the ejection of the coin, in the big bags they go into, and getting transported/rolled for circulation. Coins that are individually handled as soon as struck avoid this. That doesn’t mean the strike was special per se but they avoid any bag marks

They say they are struck with everything the same except for “slightly” more strike force. I think it’s just marketing to make collectors want to buy them for a slightly better strike. They really aren’t anything special and certainly won’t all grade 70. What it almost seems like you are talking about are SMS sets. Look at say 65-67 sms sets. They are slightly different and while it’s debated are generally readily identifiable and given an SMS grade. You have a whole lot of things mismatched together. A proof silver eagle will be much better struck than a business strike if that’s what you are asking. The Morgans are proof strikes I believe, but at a minimum will get some special treatment. Modern proof coins generally are near perfect and will grade 69/70 with rare exceptions. That hasn’t always been the case. Coining processes have and continue to improve and where it may be rare to get a cameo proof in the 50s now they are all pretty much 69/79 DCaM. But read that I sent you from NGC. Look at the levels of classification. Start with the three types of graded (MS/PF/SP) and then work down. Next look at strike classifications. Click on the detail. Then look at designations, etc…. Right now you are mixing a bunch of types of coins together to get a grading soup

This resource from our hosts may be helpful for what it seems like you want to learn. https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-grading/grading-scale/

Yes uncirculated sets, generally, are just business strikes in a special package. I say generally because there may be some sets that occasionally have an SP coin. I believe the 21 Morgans were proof but I won’t swear to it. I never really looked into them much. But they are also .999 silver unlike any of the circulation coins you are referencing.

This may sound harsh, but the last thing you should think about right now is sending coins in for grading. If you don’t know the basics, and think uncirculated coin sets are burnished, use your time and money to learn the coins. They aren’t going anywhere. You are headed down a road that leads to a lot of wasted money and disappointment. Learn the coins before you buy anything, much less send them in for grading. It may stink to hear now but you will thank me later I promise.

Hang on I think we have some confusion. Burnishing is one type of specially struck coins, but I don’t think that’s what you are asking. And only one of the coins pictured above is burnished. There are coins struck for purposes other than circulation. You will often see these coins graded with an SP/specimen grade. What it seems you are really asking is removing coins from an uncirculated set. Those are just business strike coins packaged for collectors. Generally speaking there isn’t anything different about them and they would be graded just like any other business strike. Similarly proofs broken out of a proof set are graded just like any other proof. lastly just because a coin is in an uncirculated set in no way means it’s a perfect coin (sp/pf70). In fact they rarely will be. So don’t think if you send in coins out of uncirculated sets you will be returned all 70 grades.

It’s got a funny look. I would take greenstang’s word for it that it is ordinary. I was questioning authenticity. But it may just be circulation. It looks like it’s been in a tumbler or it’s cast. It’s stippled on the entire surface.

And why?? 😂

I agree with others not an S/D. I’ve seen you ask questions about several varieties, and if that is what you are interested in it would serve you well to start learning some of the resources available. These are free options and you should compare your coins to the known varieties. If you think you have a winner and want validation post some pics and people will be glad to. But this will save you some time. http://varietyvista.com https://www.ngccoin.com/variety-plus/

Hmmmm. Can you post a good picture front and back of the coin cropped so that it fills in the screen? Nice and sharp. I think this one needs a closer look.

I think it would be a good idea for any new collector to begin with assembling a 7070 type set of circulated coins. It forces you to learn about a ton of different series, asses coin condition across a multitude of designs and metals, and is something to be proud of once complete. Then when they complete that they specialize in what they liked the most, but they do it from a place of knowledge and exposure to what all is out there.

I can’t argue with that haha. Much better to spend it on coins despite the condition. Enjoy the hobby that’s all that matters

That price guide is going to do nothing but disappoint. 45 Mercs in anything less than say VF are worth spot silver price. They are just too common and plentiful in MS. You buy a lot, and you can certainly collect what you want and makes you happy, but you will be much better served over time with fewer purchases and spending the money on a quality coin. For what you have spent on common year proof sets and items like this you could have a few really quality coins. Just something to consider but the most important thing is what do you enjoy so take this with a grain of salt.

I am of the same school of thought as @Coinbuf I am fortunate to have some nicer coins, and some top pops, but I assure you the joy is real. Each and every one I have poured over hundreds of similar coins waiting for the right one. I have agonized over minuscule details to try and find the one that I felt was the nicest I could find or afford. I have bugged several members here asking for second or third opinions on coins before I bought them. That’s the whole joy of collecting to me is the hunt. Not because it costs a lot of money, albeit often times it does. It’s about learning a coin series, reading all you can on them, understanding where strike weakness is common or where design elements aren’t full, and then apply that learning and skill to hunt down the nicest you can find/afford. If the learning and the hunt brought me no joy I’d put that money in the stock market and enjoy a much quicker growth (atleast for now). Sometimes skilled collectors can amass very impressive collections without breaking the bank by having knowledge and a good eye.

That’s the fun of it. You see some insanity 😂

I smell a new thread of posting the craziest coin listings you see. Lots of entertainment to be had

There was a posting a few weeks ago for an estate auction mentioning a rare error Peace Dollar with a V instead of U. This seems to really mess with people if they don’t know better.

I haven’t picked it up yet. On my way to get the No-S proof business strikes first then heading that way. I’m telling you people make up some stories when coins are involved. I’m never disappointed when I look at these listings.

I periodically get on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace to see what ultra rarities are for sale near me. Today I saw two ultra rare NO-S dimes for big money which had a striking resemblance (pun intended) to circulated Philly business strikes. Then I ran across some interesting info on Peace dollars I had not read before. @RWB perhaps this should be a chapter in the next version of your Peace Dollars guide book.

Good catch. I totally missed that.

You can beat that on eBay in a PCGS or NGC slab. Looking at recent sales I see several selling in PF66 CAM between $30 and $35. I do see some go for $50 but plenty to be had for less. And not in an ANACS slab. Not that they are bad per se. It does appear to be an older holder so you may hope for an upgrade with today’s grading standards, but it doesn’t look extra special from what I can see in the pics.