Woods020

It sure looks like a strike through late stage die cap based off the ones I’ve seen in references, but I’m no error expert by any means. It has the slight cupping you usually see on them as well. Any way you can weigh it to two decimal places? Curious to see if any meaningful metal has been lost. If not I think it would be hard to replicate that without altering the weight it would seem.

It pays for your $10 or more. I can’t tell from the pics if the obverse is just darkly toned or if it has some environmental damage. Middle bands on fasces and bottom band nick would exclude full bands designations. Definitely a nice find in a penny roll any day. If you can get a little clearer picture we can tell you more on grade.

😂😂😂😂😂 @VKurtB this new nickname has to stick. You are heretofore Old Bob Ross or OBR for short.

Amazon or eBay are probably your best bets

😂😂😂 That’s what a glance will get you. Maybe my eyes are 1932 models

82 was a fine vintage. Hoghead and I are both 82 models.

You never know. I’ve got the type two that would meet his request and I would sell it. But no help on the type 1 😁

From the initial research I’ve done most shows have a few options at different price points. Corner locations, larger areas, etc seem to be more than a smaller interior table. Now I have yet to rent one in my life so I can’t say that this is always the case. Just what I have seen so far.

My top 3 favorite silver coins I own currently

This is why most people will not buy raw doubled die coins. I’m not seeing a doubled die in the bunch. I am curious though. The 6th coin down is that a Mercury dime? For future reference people will always want to see clear full coin pictures front and back.

It’s plating bubbles/blisters. Very common on the zinc cents. Gases and impurities get trapped between the two layers and blister/bubble. No error just the realities of the current crappy cents.

You are correct. Looks like a 1982 Philadelphia Zincoln. They made the change in composition in 1982.

I think that’s the only approach. One I’ve had to self evaluate and apply here myself. Once it is determined it’s going nowhere then let it fizzle out. The worst thing we can do is continue to engage. It can only make us (the responder) look bad solely because we want to be respected, learn from others, and be a solid member of the numismatic community. The person posting the garbage could care less. I think we owe it to them to give them the benefit of the doubt and not jump to snap decisions off a post or two, but once the writing is on the wall I think we would all be smart to read it. And that’s as much to me as anyone.

I guess it’s fitting that I bought this in a shop in the DC area

Thanks Bob. That’s what I was hoping for.

I recently picked up a pretty nice 1828 13 star 1/2 cent. Unfortunately I don’t have a decent resource for the Cohen varieties and can’t find much online. This has made me order another book, but for now is anyone versed in these?

A recent raw pickup. I’m throwing it in my next submission.

I gotta agree with Mark on this one. What you are saying is completely contradictory to the often discussed gradeflatation that has occurred. I can’t say I’ve been in it nearly as long as either of you, but everyone talks about grades loosening. People pay more for coins in old holders thinking they will upgrade simply because they were graded before the loosening. Not to say that is a smart move but one done every day.

Only a small subset of VAMs are attributed by NGC/PCGS. I think that’s why Variety Slabbing Service exists. To verify the others for VAM collectors. If you are on VAMWorld there is an icon next to the listing for PCGS/NGC/ANACS if they attribute. Of course you can look on NGC Variety Plus also to see what they attribute. But way more are not attributed than are. That VAM is and R-4 (rarity) which isn’t very rare. It may bring a slight premium to a vam guy but not much if any. The ones the TPGs attribute are the ones you want. They are the most dramatic and I think people want them for registries. Those are the ones that bring premiums.

No I’m 99% it’s VAM 4. When it’s convenient post pics of the obverse and I can confirm. Enjoy the promised land. I hope you are headed to your friends lake mansion and plan to be in the water because it’s HOT. I’m headed to the golf course a little later and have to give myself a pep talk to weather the heat. If you are interested in VAMs on your others or how to discern them in general message me. I’m not a pro at all but got an amazing crash course over the last week from John Barnhart, who is the man on these. He is past president of Silver Dollar Collectors Society. He also has an attribution company specifically for these and only charges $6. Super nice guy. I can give you some basics he taught me.

I thought this was the 83CC, but noticed it is the 83P. This is VAM 4 I’m pretty sure. Need to see whole coin to be positive but fairly certain. Check it out and some of the die markers with your coin. http://ec2-13-58-222-16.us-east-2.compute.amazonaws.com/wiki/1883-P_VAM-4

I will tell you I just spent over a week, a few hours a day, looking through 33 slabbed 78 8tf. VAMs for that one put you in an extra special level of hades. There are so many and the nuances are so small. I am finally done and they have been confirmed by someone else but it was more than I bargained for. None of them are are bad as that one.We can figure this one out easy peasy. I meant to check it before I mailed it and in my rush I forgot.

Or post them here actually. Not sure why I felt the needed PM’d 😂

Can you PM me clear front and back pics and one fairly close up of the bottom of the breast and wings where they meet the body? I’ve learned a ton from the Vamworld guys. There is a systematic way to narrow it down but I need to determine which reverse die was used.