powermad5000

Thank you for the additional photos. I think they confirm that the discolored dime is an acid reduced coin. The acid attacks the metal evenly so acid reduced coins will likely still have their edge reeding albeit weaker reeding than when the coin was initially struck. Depending on how the coin was laying and how long it sat in the acid can cause that spotty look. This coin probably didn't sit in the acid bath as long as some of the others we have seen here where the clad layer is completely missing on both sides and the reeding is almost nonexistent.

If you look at a lot of Lincoln Wheat Cents, you will notice many with "weak" lettering on the reverse on the opposite side of Lincoln's bust. It is an issue with the design of the cent and the amount of metal from the coin being struck that gets pushed into the die to form the bust of Lincoln on the obverse left less metal to flow into the design of the reverse die for the lettering to strike up fully. In laymen's terms, there is only so much metal to go around. You will see many Lincoln Wheat cents across all of the years they were made with weak lettering on the reverses. This effect was so pronounced in 1922 that you will see Lincoln Wheats graded with Strong Reverse and Weak Reverse on the labels in the slabs. This is not an error, but rather an issue the Mint had with the relief of the design.

I do agree. But as I have a diverse collection, on series that have lesser interest than Morgans such as some dimes and Franklin Halves for instance, when looking to fill slots with coins that are more populous in numbers and easier to obtain, I have found that I am still able to find and obtain some of these coins at undervalued prices.

I'm sorry, but I see heavy damage on this coin. It is possible it was a parking lot find at some point. Nothing in the Mint process would produce a coin that looks like this.

Hello and welcome! I think you may have a "combination" coin. The reverse has deep abrasions that would be in conjunction with a dryer coin, and the rim has the indications of a spooned coin. I guess it would be possible for someone to rescue a dryer coin and decide it is now not "good" anymore so to try to make something else out of it.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I think your coin may be acid reduced, but if you could, would you mind posting it next to any regular cash register change circulation dime? Also maybe put the normal dime under yours and take a picture of that too, so we can see if there is a noticeable difference in size?

There was a craze created by the pandemic and bored people on lockdown getting into coins. They started buying things up and paying more than price guide prices especially for Morgans. It is starting to come back down a bit, but I don't think we will ever see Morgans especially go back to pre-pandemic levels.

I am saddened to hear your feelings openly displayed here. I can only think there have been others who just made their exit without comment. You own your feelings and have a right to have those feelings. Nobody can change your feelings but yourself. I will say, maybe just try to look at things a little differently. Grading has been around basically since collecting began in the 1800's. TPG grading by contrast has only recently begun in the last about 30 years. There are many collectors and some on this board who do NOT submit a single coin nor own a single slab. They grade their coins themselves and their feeling is that works for them. I collected coins for almost 40 years without ever submitting a single coin. That did not mean what I collected had no worth. And I learned I had some really nice excellent coins and some that were just not so good. I collected those way back then because I wanted them, because I liked how they looked, because they interested me, not because I had to send them in. I also have learned a lot from just general collecting and also from grading. But grading in and of itself is not the be all end all of this hobby. What is is putting that last coin into an album that finally completes the journey of the album. What is is meeting other people and having interesting conversations about coins and collecting. What is is sitting down at a table and opening your coin box and remembering the places you went to find what you have and the stories attached to the coins in the box. Remember, if you do come onto here, and ask a question, you will get answers. Sometimes the answers are not what you might want to hear, but I would think you would like to get the truthful answer to a question rather than an answer that deceives. You can do as you wish, as is with all things in life. Just, there are things to consider in this hobby that have nothing to do with grading, and collecting can be done without it. Collecting can be done just because you like the way something looks. And that look does not have to be "perfect" either.

Hello and welcome to the forum! I am also in the camp of there being damage on the obverse from a coin roll wrapping machine. There are many different coins of different denominations out in the wild that have this mark on them to varying degrees. It is not an error, just damage.

I think it is. The OP's coin is worn down to VF and the photo provided by @cobymordet I believe is from NCG Variety Plus and is of a basically pristine example, not worn to VF like the OP's coin. To me, on the OP's coin, the left side of the 1 is showing the same marker. The 9 is worn and is not showing what would on a pristine example. The 4 has the tail of the other 4 matching that same marker as in the pristine example. As for the 2, even in the pristine example, the metal of the 1 at the left edge of the 2 is faint so on a VF it could just blend in. Also, the lighting in the OP's photo might be hiding that faint metal of the 1 in the shadows. I think it has enough similarities that would not be found on a plain 1942 D. Just my opinion.

It is listed currently at $80 in the NGC price guide. I don't care if the label is green, brown, or purple. The coin is the coin. I just did a search on eBay for a 1921 (P) Morgan on eBay in MS 63 and graded by NGC. Using price + shipping : lowest first, and using only Buy it Now listings, within less than one minute, I just located well over a dozen of these already graded by NGC in MS 63 for $50-60. Not all of them have the level of white this coin exhibits but some are very close to it, and many are nearly or are equivalent in eye appeal. If you really want one of these for your collection, I just saved you $20-$30.

Thank you for the reverse photo. Being so much metal was not struck on the obverse explains the weakness of the details on the obverse which would be indicative of a part of the die having broken off creating a rather large cud on your coin. I would say this is a legit error and a rather large cud as far as coins with those go. If you purchased this coin, it is a legit error in my humble opinion. If you got it out of circulation, even better, and congratulations as finding any errors in circulation is extremely unlikely, especially one such as this with an outstanding and not subtle feature on it. For your future posts, please try to provide clear, cropped photos of both sides of the coin, and in proper orientation. It only takes a second to turn the coin for proper top to bottom viewing. Think less background, and more coin and that you also would not want to view your coins sideways or upside down. Then your closeup of any feature in question can be under mag, but make sure it is not too close and too pixelated for us to see it. Excellent! We have an actual error!

If your nickel didn't exhibit any other abrasions, gouges, or other subsequent damage, I would have taken a look to see if it was a struck through error for being struck through a piece of wire or staple which has been known to happen at the Mint. View the coins in the link I have provided to error-ref.com for examples. You will note on those examples there is no raised metal at the edges of the indents, and also there is no scrape marks in the indent itself. https://www.error-ref.com/struck-through_wire/ When I look at the line in your coin, I can see scrape marks at the bottom of where you believe there to be a strike through by a staple. This tells me the mark was caused by a scrape, and not struck through a staple. Then combined with all the rest of the damage on it, it makes sense. It is a nickel that has seen some tough abuse. It is not an error, however.

First off, coins from the Mint are struck not stamped. That said, the coin you have actually is "stamped" (much like as in a counterstamp where someone punches their initials or a design into a coin already struck). It took me seconds to see the backwards image of a dime onto a nickel to send my brain right into vise job territory. Being there is a preponderance of posts like yours that appear here within a given year makes me wonder if there isn't another cutesy YoubeeTubee video showing how allegedly "cool" it is to make vise job coins in your garage. For the record, it is not cool or kewl for those of that era. You should keep in mind people can do some weird stuff to coins. Most of the time, only the person doing the damage can say why they did what they did. What we know is that damage is damage and sometimes people do these things as an experiment, sometimes to illegitimately make an "error" to defraud someone, or simply deface currency because they can.

Don't feel bad. I checked Numista for this specific thing, and yours with the no numeral was not on their site which is quite comprehensive. It is basically lumped in with the 50 yen from the whole period but doesn't get specific that this particular coin seems to be a one year only with a proper explanation.

Mea culpa. I thought this one was a charged fee. At first, I thought you were irate with me for my comment. But I read your rant and see it is directed elsewhere. While I agree, we all know the TPG's are a business and as such charge $$ to perform a service. I am sure you and I would keep in touch with that courteous side of doing business and that treating customers more like "friends" would be something we would do. We would listen to the issue and determine that money was already paid, and rather than charge more to fix it, we would know that it would be of our better interest to make a single situation right, resulting in a happy customer, which would result in more future business with said customer. And after all, anyone who submits their coins to a TPG is a customer. What I have noted of most businesses, when they start to get too big, they lose this basic empathy with their customers. I was afraid this would be the outcome, but at least as duly noted, at least it is a no fee Variety Plus.

Hello and welcome to the forum! You have a well worn and well circulated common 1964 D Jefferson Nickel. While there is a variety for this year and mintmark of a D over D which is very scarce, I cannot ascertain from the photos given if it were to have this characteristic and would need closeup photos of the mintmark to be able to tell. Most likely it is just a common 1964 D Jefferson Nickel well circulated and worth face value. If you are having trouble identifying this coin, you should obtain a copy of the current Red Book of United States Coins. This book is widely available at book stores, online sellers, and at numismatic events.

Hello and welcome to the forum! Well, this is an entertaining thread! As for the coin, maybe you could fashion it into a slip sinker for fishing. Who knows, maybe this tragedy in the numismatic world can be turned into a record catch in the angling world.

Thank you for the images. As soon as you said you submitted this as a mint error, I knew why it came back graded the way it did. It is not a mint error, but a variety as noted by @Sandon. What I have learned in my years of submissions, you have really got to be on top of your submission paperwork, as once it is received by NGC, they are not allowed to make subsequent "changes" to it. I understand fully that you spent the additional $18, but I think what needs to be understood here is once a submission is received with the Mint Error box checked, the coin goes to either a different grading table or a different grading room than would be if it were to go through the Variety Plus route. So, once at the Mint Error table, they took a quick look at it and well, it doesn't have a mint error so the coin got graded as a plain 1942 D. Long ago, this coin would have come back with the slab in a separate plastic bag with a sticker on it that would have said "Not a mint error". Nowadays, you don't get that or an explanation. As far as it goes, I don't think you will be able to recover the $18 fee. You can plead your case to NGC on this but I think you are going to hear that no matter what, you should have checked the proper box for the condition on your coin, and the $18 fee will have to be charged again because the graders upon regrading this coin will have to do the work necessary to confirm that it is of the variety you are claiming it to be. I hate to be the Debbie Downer of this thread, but I have gone my occasional rounds with NGC over the many years of submissions I have made, and I have never gotten an error on my part "overturned" in my favor. One thing you can be happy about is that it straight graded, and didn't return as Details graded for some type of issue such as cleaning, scratches, etc. I am always happy when my coins return straight graded.

I am sorry, but I am further confused by this post the further down I scroll. We are comparing proofs to a circulation strike and also an S to a D to a W. With all the variables in just that, not withstanding any differences in the preparation of the planchets which I believe are supplied to the mint in large quantities, I don't see how any comprehensive conclusion can be made to any aspects of size, thickness, or weight of each of the three.

Nice assemblage @jimbo27! I am wondering why there are some missing VAMs in the registry for the 1921 (P). I have a VAM-1A Pitted Reverse and a VAM-3E Pitted Reverse. As I am not a registry participant it is probably a dumb question as to why there are not slots for those.

Thank you to everyone for providing me the CAC info. Good to know. My apologies to the OP for the additional chatter I created on his post. I felt it relevant however to make that part clear to all. As far as it goes @Roy Winters, it doesn't matter the why you want to submit what you want to submit. It is your $$. Just as it is anyone else. I have submitted many things others would say I just wasted my money on, but it is my money and I can burn it if I want to although I would never do that because I need it for more coins. LOL! The thing about this hobby is we are all free to collect what we want to and do whatever we want with the coins we have collected. Have at it is my opinion!

You can't get CAC stickers anymore as far as I know. The slabs that were stickered were done before CACG grading began. As far as I know if you want a CAC green bean you have to submit the coins directly to CACG for grading and the bean will be printed on the label inside the slab if I am not mistaken. Maybe I am totally wrong, but I know there are some members on here who know the correct info here. I am not participating in the CACG program so I don't know for sure, but I know that things changed when they started doing their own TPG grading. Can you still get a green bean sticker on say an old NGC slab or would it have to now be regraded by CACG to get a green bean?

Hello and welcome to the forum! If by graded you mean submitted to a third party grading service, the answer is no. The plastic will cost more than the coin inside is worth. While you provided good photos of the obverses, you did not provide the same for the reverses which could have physical damage, circulation abrasions or environmental damage not found on the obverses but could definitely impact the overall value of the coins. Just based on the decade these cents are from, you would need very near perfect specimens for these to be worth the costs of submission. Many of the 50's Lincoln Wheats need to grade at a minimum of MS 66 RD (red) just to basically make a break even with TPG grading costs and MS 67 RD to have any substantial value. None of the obverses in your post even come close to those grades and your 56 would be considered a RB (red-brown). Many of these cents were hoarded in substantial amounts by collectors and stored so that is why the value of these cents even in great condition still have a relatively low value.

I see a large date 1982 D of which there were some struck in bronze and some struck in zinc. I do not know what you are seeing as being "weird" on the strike though. It looks normal to me and the "lightness" of the rim and lettering tells me it is probably a zinc and would probably weigh around 2.5g.