Coinbuf

No matter the sales enjoy the experience, I did this myself a good 15 years ago and it was very educational to see things from the other side of the table.

No it is a large date.

Welcome to the forum, from your photos this appears to be a fake these are made in China and can be bought for a couple of bucks. Sadly we see this question posted all the time and not a single one has been real so far. If you are truly convinced that this is real then you can certainly send it in to NGC for them to authenticate and slab it. However my advice is not to waste your money doing so.

Be prepared to have the other dealers flock to your table and attempt to cherry pick your material while expecting you to sell at wholesale prices, like blood in the water. I'd suggest that you have some junk silver or perhaps some silver rounds if possible, always a few stackers in the crowd. If you have some of those items that you bought before the run up on silver prices that can be an easy way to cover the table costs for a smaller show.

The pop reports are trash, the constant crackouts and regrade attempts have made them all but worthless. The best you can hope to glean from them is a general sense of how many have been graded and a very general idea of what the population curve looks like for those that are graded.

Welcome to the forum, I'm sorry but your photo is out of focus and I cannot tell anything from the photo you have posted. Also you need to start with a photo of the whole coin (cropped and in focus) both obv and rev, describe what you are seeing and then provide a close up (in focus) of that area. Also you need to back off the magnification, as I always say everything looks like something at the micron level. Closeups do not need to be this close to see what is going on, in fact magnification this high usually distorts what is actually there and promotes pareidolia.

From the photo it looks like that area was scrapped and the outer layer of metal/tone was removed leaving the brassy mint color that did not have time to tone in the couch. As you removed it from that environment and placed it into your desk my thought is that it has not reacted to anything yet and is thus untoned in that scuffed area. And yes that does appear to be a die crack on the reverse. While this appears to be a copper large date; undamaged zinc Lincolns do at times have some very bright yellow and orange toning patterns to them.

Well that was a lengthy first post welcome to the forum. I would not break apart any sets from the 50's & 60's, these have value and some are sought after by collectors as the coins in them sometimes have tarnished very colorfully. As you get to the sets from the 70's, and forward these have very little value to most collectors, dealers don't want them and will in many cases only pay face value for the coins in them. I have seen it written by some dealers that they actually cut those sets up and use them to make change in their stores. So those you can cut up and place in albums if that is the storage method that you prefer. Best in your collecting.

@Emmy1, if you bought these as original gold coins I would suggest that you return them for a refund. If these were advertised as replicas or copies then you got what you paid for.

Neither, no coin is ever automatically deemed PF70 or PF69 just because it is a proof. You can do whatever suits you in terms of how you catalog your coins, if to you the coins meet your definition of a PF70 then by all means feel free to call them that. But with the understanding that you may be the only one that would grade them that way.

Thanks for those additional photos JP, your reverse photo in the op must have had something on the plastic or the lens which made the lines look blurry.

I too think that it is rather small, but perhaps larger than RWB thinks the number is.

Without seeing a photo it's rather difficult to say. There was a time when some collectors would use lacquer or varnish to protect copper coins with some success, those usually have a different sheen or look to them. I would not recommend leaving them in any type of oil for long term storage, over time the oil will either become rancid or dry up. I do remember hearing about a guy that received some coins in a tin of gun oil, no idea how that turned out.

No its not the hits that I have concerns over, its the overall look. This is one of those coins that would have gotten a split grade back in the early ANACS days. The obverse shows light rub on the coat, lower jawline, cheek, and forehead. From a strict wear and mark standpoint it looks AU58, however I'm not seeing enough luster so I see the obverse as AU53 overall. The reverse is tougher as at first glance it looks XF45, but the blending of the upper wheat lines and the lack of any discernable luster lead me to an XF40 grade for the reverse. I always grade a coin by the worst side; which is the correct way; so that is how I reach my conclusion of XF40. However as I noted that is from these photos, in hand I might have a different opinion.

XF40 from these photos, the obverse could pass for AU but the reverse holds it down.

One more is CollectiveCoin I have never used this site for buying or selling but I do know a few that are active on it and claim to have made sales there.

Suitable for a low grade album, no numismatic value over the value of the copper.

When it weighs 3.11 grams on an accurate scale.

You have appearance review checked, that is for coins that are already in NGC holders that you think are overgraded, you need to uncheck that box. Also do not forget to select the return shipping method box #3 One last thing, I would suggest in the future that you not fill in your personal info before the screenshot, many people consider that unsafe.

NCS is a conservation service that NGC offers if you have a coin that is covered in thick crusty gunk, PVC, stains, or some other substance on the coin. They will review the coin(s) you send and if they feel that conservation will be successful they will do what is needed to remove whatever stuff is on the coin. If they do not think the coin can be successfully saved or conserved it will be retuned in the condition you sent. Reholder is a service that is normally used if you have a coin already in an NGC holder that may have gotten chipped or cracked. They will remove the coin form the old holder and place it into a new one. Some people that have really bad OCD and want their slabs to all be uniform and will use this service level so everything matches. One caution, some older holders are valued by some collectors so do your research before you send anything in for this, depending on the holder generation you may be losing value when the old holder is gone.

That is the tier for the mega rare uber expensive coins, very expensive but also very quick. When you have a very expensive coin that has a value over 10K this is the tier it must be submitted under, also this tier can also be used if you are incredibly impatient and must have your coin graded as quickly as possible and are willing to pay the high fee. Of course paying $200 to grade a $1 coin pretty much defines the phrase money to burn in my book.

Welcome to the forum, the nickel in your photos is discolored and you are experiencing pareidolia. Like when you see your dog's face in a cloud, it looks like a two just by happenstance there is nothing actually there other than the substance that stained the coin.

While I don't have a must do or list of things that I feel are must do items for my numismatic journey, I have some goals for my collection. One such goal has been to include an uber high grade classic coin to the collection. This has never been a high priority or something that I felt I "had" to do just a want list item that I figured I would find someday that would not only fit this minor goal but be very nice upgrade to one set or the other. I think that I always expected that would be a new coin for my Lincoln set, given that it is a very large, long set I guess that it seemed the most likely set to find one that was within financial reach. There are tons of MS68 and MS69 graded modern Lincoln coins but the most available MS68 classic coins in that series are the steel cents and they still sell for right around 1K on average, doable but not really the coin that I was motivated to go after at those prices. However recently on GC I saw an auction for a 1940-D Mercury dime in MS68FB, not only is this a great classic design coin but it was also a numerical upgrade for several sets. So I did as usual and threw in a $20 bid to place the coin on my watchlist, I check recent auction results for this grade and figured that it would likely sell for more than I was prepared to go. A couple of days before the end of the auction I checked on the status and was surprised to see the price still rather low. Ok that does happen sometimes and then a flurry of action in the last hour pushes the prices up near or beyond average. So I decided what I was willing to go, which was below the recent averages; and place my final bid fully expecting to be out bid in those last hours. I checked my emails after the auction deadline and low and behold I had won for just under my high bid! I thought that is great, and then the doubts start to creep in. Why did I win for less that recent average sales; did I miss something that others saw? Did I just buy a dog coin, what did I just do! Well nothing to do but wait for the package to arrive and see the coin in hand. Fast forward to yesterday when the package came, I can now say that I very happy with my new coin, not a dog at least in my opinion. I suspect that because this coin is blast white played some part in the lower than average selling price, had it been toned I expect it would have been much more expensive. Also the lack of a CAC bean may have been a factor to some buyers at this grade level, not a deal breaker for me. So there it is, a minor bucket list item checked off with what I find to be a very beautiful coin with one of the most attractive classic designs. The only photos I have are the GC one's for now.