Coinbuf

The most recent auction sale for an NGC 5FS was last year and it hammered at $240. There are currently 2 NGC 5FS examples on collector corner by two separate dealers each asking $395. I don't have access to a bluesheet, but from the data I can see my guess is that most dealers might be offering around $225, perhaps up to $250 if the dealer has a way to flip it quickly. It really comes down to what kind of clients each dealer has access to and how quickly he/she might be able to move the coin.

In what universe are you seeing MS65 bicentennial quarters selling for $30 You can buy both of these for less than you could buy and slab one single coin. Your call but this seems like the usual mint ripoff.

Some great coins, I hope that GC will consider doing "great photos" for some of those.

I stopped ordering from the mint over ten years ago, best decision I ever made. That bit on the shipping is way over the top.

It is entirely possible that NCS after evaluating your coin did not perform any conservation service on your coin. If after their review it is determined that a coin cannot be "helped" and the best option is to do nothing, that is the choice they go with. Did you pay the attribution fee to have the Miller designation added, and does NGC even offer the service of adding a Miller designation? I'm not an early copper guy so I am not familiar with the NGC policies pertaining to Miller designations. But if you did not indicate that you wanted that designation (again assuming that it can be added) and pay the extra fee it would not be put on the label NGC will not automatically add all varieties/designations.

If you are satisfied with the coin that is what matters, however you asked. While you did not lose much here the coin is worth $30 dollars (to me) give or take depending on the silver spot prices. Keep in mind that I do not care about varieties or VAM's so I only consider the base coin value. Also, when you buy problem coins all you have done is buy someone else's problems, I don't think you lost much with this one but making a habit of buying problem coins could leave you with an empty wallet and little to show for it. It is usually much harder to sell a problem coin once you need to do so.

Its worth exactly twenty five cents, if you want to spend $30 to slab something that will still be worth a quarter that is your call.

Once a jewelry piece always a jewelry piece, there is no way to remove a jewelry mount without leaving evidence of the mount on the coin.

Impossible to know, might be as suggested an unusual abbreviation for roll, or initials, I know of no specific meaning for the initials.

Yes the 1960 cent you posted displays machine/strike/mechanical doubling which is common and has no added value. However, cents minted in 1960 are not steel.

Those marks are not planchet errors, those are damage from coin rolling/wrapping machines. Which explains why you see so many like that.

A very nice set indeed, hope you can find a home for this as an intact set, that would be very cool.

I agree that this looks more like a strike though. Value for these varies depending on the size and location of the strike through as well as the number of collectors that might be looking to add this to their collection. The condition of your coin will also have an impact on value, most collectors are looking for an attractive example, while not terrible I personally would not consider this coin to have positive eye appeal. That is just my opinion and another collector might not agree with me.

I would not be willing to pay a premium for it, but there might be some who would.

YUCK!!

Your quarter is in very poor condition, lots of circulation damage and its impossible to say if this was a filled die or just circulation damage. Filled dies are very common and minor errors, the TPG's will seldom acknowledge something this minor, and most informed collectors will not pay any premium for such minor errors. Your coin is worth its face value of $.25. Having said that, you will see this type of stuff listed on sites like ebay or etsy with huge asking prices by sellers that are looking to rip off other people.

The op posted a 1964 half and wanted everyone to confirm that he has an SMS coin. Once that did not happen he got upset and edited his posts, you guys did not miss much.

Photos might help, might not, also as you are new you might consider some current forum member references if you have any. Just an FYI this is not facebook you can just add a reply to your original post to bring it back to the top of the marketplace, no need for a new post. Best of luck with selling.

As @sandon replied, the comments both for individual coins and for the registry set itself can is created by the registry set user and as long as the set is set to public (not private) those comments can be seen by anyone that views the set. The set comments are at the very top of the set, and if the comments are long you need to click the blue highlighted text that reads "Read More", as illustrated in the following screen shot of one of my sets to see the full comments section. To see comments on each individual coin you need to click on the little page icon next to the date, again an illustration below from one of my coins/sets.

You are not doing anything wrong except that you won't listen to the opinions that you have received. Since you won't listen to anyone why don't you just stop wasting time and submit the coin. While you have only posted this coin here today, (at least under this screen name) you have posted about this coin on the PCGS forum back in July 2021 and then again today, I have no idea how many other forums or social media sites you have been on with this coin. But back in 2021 and again today on the PCGS forum (and now here) you have been told the facts, since you don't like the answers just stop wasting your time and submit the coin. We all know what the outcome will be, and I suspect that you also know which is why you haven't done so in the past. And bty your grammar is atrocious, if you want to be taken seriously then you might at least take the time to write in a professional manor.

I have no questions myself, and I look forward to reading your final work. But sadly, I also know that no matter how many books or articles are written it won't deter the treasure seekers who only believe you tube from their ridiculous claims and future posts about how many they have found.

If only we had any clue what you are talking about, clear full obv and rev photos would be a good start to that end.

Indeed, the lack of any discernable luster and those halo areas especially noticeable around the eagle are clear signs that the surfaces have been totally messed with. @Epic Waffle this is the kind of coin you would lose a lot of money on if you paid the asking price, and the type of coin to avoid.

It doesn't only affect that one letter, it is just more pronounced on that letter. Look at the tops of the letter U, notice how there is a shallower impression that stretches toward the rim, also caused by die deterioration. The fact that the letter U and the letter T show issues on the tops of the U and under the T is a clear red flag that this cannot be true hub doubling as true hub doubling will only be rotated one direction.

Just some die deterioration/strike doubling, not an error or any type of doubled die.