Mohawk

Thanks I'm very aware of the topic & discussion amongst the SMS set & as many numismatic enthusiast have sang the same song about privately assembled yes indeed you are exactly right if you would just ponder for a brief moment our lovely director at the time there of Mrs.Eva Adams "Privately Assembled" sets as the one In my small but very unique collection  I may be a Novice Numismatic Enthusiasts  but with Knowledge and a unique small collection that's why I love the hobby just as some prefer golf the beauty of coinage the craftsmanship the research and absolutely the history behind its existant is a wonderful world full of opportunities and discoveries to all that is will to embrace it! By the way if you would have actually embraced the set in which I've shown one will find that there is a Pat# now that I have your attention take that patent # and simply follow the trail.....Now in between time also name a set that you have seen as mine Have you seen another?? In fact if anyone has than why haven't they been revealed?? No one Privately Assembles Just 1 also the morgan is a BMP! Thanks everyone 

That's a good plan Bsshog.......I don't think that these will maintain the level of pricing that they're at currently down the road.  As I said in another thread, these are kind of like a fad, I think.  They're hot now, but they won't stay hot.  In the 90's, there were some Beanie Babies that sold for thousands.  Now they languish unsold in thrift shops with 99 cent price tags and forgotten about in totes in attics.  I don't think that these W quarters will likely be forgotten about as badly as Beanie Babies, but the prices will come down to more sane levels.  How low I don't know, but the 1996-W dime, with a mintage of under 2 million, can be had for less than $20 raw. 

Looks like I need a younger faust now... LOL this never ends! SO many varieties, I am excited to build my collection. I have no idea whats in store for me and its excited not knowing what im buying next haha.

That's my strategy too.  If I get one, I get one but if not, no big deal.  I'm definitely not going to start buying $500 boxes of quarters over this. 

Very neat Capone......it's always cool to see a nice ancient being posted!  Now, though, I'm going to have to stare at your photos with my aorta guide and see if I can figure out who it is! 

Hey Pete,
Is that the Commodus piece that you weren't hot on?  I think it's pretty sweet myself....I really dig that purple tone a lot!  If I could find an empress coin with that look, I'd be one happy guy.  I think you did very well there!
~Tom

Wow....that is ridiculous!  I think that there is going to be a lot of ridiculousness surrounding these.  If I find one, I find one but I know I won't be the first one and I'd have to sign up for PCGS to certify the thing anyway.  $5000 is a good incentive, don't get me wrong, but I'm not going to get all hyped up on something I know I won't win.  It would be cool to find one to flip, though.  Might help me get another Faustina the Younger denarius or maybe my first Lucilla denarius    Good luck everyone!!

Hey Pete,
Is that the Commodus piece that you weren't hot on?  I think it's pretty sweet myself....I really dig that purple tone a lot!  If I could find an empress coin with that look, I'd be one happy guy.  I think you did very well there!
~Tom

Pete, if I haven't told you yet, she's absolutely gorgeous!  Very nice pick up my friend!
~Tom

Wow....that is ridiculous!  I think that there is going to be a lot of ridiculousness surrounding these.  If I find one, I find one but I know I won't be the first one and I'd have to sign up for PCGS to certify the thing anyway.  $5000 is a good incentive, don't get me wrong, but I'm not going to get all hyped up on something I know I won't win.  It would be cool to find one to flip, though.  Might help me get another Faustina the Younger denarius or maybe my first Lucilla denarius    Good luck everyone!!

Actually, I do.  I'd like to add that if a someone wants to sell a coin, that they do so in their own sales thread, not in another member's.  I had someone hijack my thread today trying to sell a damaged 2009-D Lincoln Cent for over $2,400.  I closed the thread and reposted in a new thread, but I found that to be extremely rude and it possibly could have damaged my selling reputation if someone thought it was actually me trying to pull that one.

It's interesting that there are examples of this coin out there that are still raw....you'd think that they'd have all taken a trip through a TPG by this point, but it just goes to show you that you never know what may still turn up out there.  Now, if only I could find myself a 1969 Large Date Canadian Dime...........

Keep searching. It's out there somewhere!!

Yeah.....I used to be on those, too, years ago.  They weren't to my liking either Karen, and I think you for the compliment  

When you post a question about a coin or coins, it's worth remembering that the people giving you answers--unless it is specifically about an NGC policy matter or submission--are volunteer hobbyists who do this for fun. They are not speaking for NGC; they speak only for themselves, and they want to help people. When you do a good job of posting your inquiry, you increase your chances of helpful replies, because you show respect for the volunteers' time.
Please do:
Ask a question, or multiple questions. We need to know what to focus on. Authenticity? Grade? Identification? Value? All of these? Think about your questions. "What would this grade at NGC?" and "What grade would you give this coin?" are two very different questions. If you ask the first one, only people who know a lot about NGC's ways have much to offer you. "How much is this worth?" is another nebulous question. Better: "What would a dealer pay me for this?" Or: "What would a dealer sell this for?" Post clear photos of the entire obverse, reverse, and if necessary the edge. If need be, add zoomed photos of specific features, but always clear shots of both full sides. Post all pictures of a given coin in the same thread. Accept that if you have photographic limitations, and you keep posting badly photographed coins, you'll keep being told they're not good enough to use to answer your question. You can't expect everyone to read all your threads and know your circumstances, be they poverty or Parkinson's or can'tbebothereditis. It's not their fault your photos can't or won't get better, even if it is also not always your own fault. Use a thread title that describes the coin(s), so that people who know the subject matter are likelier to read the thread. If you just inherited Bampaw's silver dollar collection which you can see spans the period 1850-1921, you could title it "Evaluating silver dollar collection 1850-1921." People who know a lot about those silver dollars will see it and be likely to help you. "Grading advice" is bad; everyone wants grading advice. "Morgan dollar grading advice" is good. "Is this fake?" is bad. "Is this Chinese silver coin fake?" is good. Post only once per coin. (If you have received a huge collection, and you want to start with a picture of the whole hoard with zoomed shots of parts, that's no problem. This guideline is intended to keep people from slamming multiple fully photographed coins into a single thread, making it difficult to figure out which one the answers are talking about. So if it's a hoard, and you single out some for close scrutiny, go with new threads for each of those.) If the picture files are too large in terms of data, learn to make them smaller without losing necessary information. Paint.net is a free image editor for Windows. Open your pictures in it, crop them, and save them as .jpgs. Look at what sizes they are now. This is too easy. If there is any question of identification or authentication, include weight in grams and diameter in millimeters. If you don't know the metric system, use an online converter. Weight is one of the key diagnostics of authenticity and unless the coin is too obviously bogus to bother, you will be asked for it. Just include it with your first post. Tell us what you know, or what you believe to be the case, about the coin. It's okay to be incorrect. Understand that the term "melt" does not automatically mean someone plans to melt the coin down, nor is anyone suggesting you should. It refers simply to the value of the metal for its own sake. Do not freak out when someone says "melt" about Bampaw's Morgan dollars. We really do not want or expect you to throw it in a blast furnace, all right? Use punctuation. Being easy to read works to your benefit. When you write a twelve-line paragraph with no periods or commas, people tune you out. For those who need reminders, this , is a comma. You use it to separate phrases, more or less. This . is a period. You use it to end most sentences. Hitting Enter will insert a paragraph break. You use this between series of thoughts. Live them. Love them. Use them. because ill tell u what really suxors is when some1 posts sententses like this 1 4 about half a page its impossibel 2 read and some people including me will prob not finish readin it which means u arent gettin as many respontses think about it ur only hurtin ur own cozz notice how stooped this reads ur in affect makin urself ten times harder 2 help and frankly its disrespectfull 2 assume entellegent people should do all that extra work 4 ur sake now kinely clean up ur act and rite like u at least got thru 6ixth grade im glad we had this little talk Come prepared to accept responsive answers. Brace yourself to learn that Bampaw or Opa, always considered the family's Great Numismatist, may not have been so great at this. No one seeks to offend your relative's legacy, but the coin must be called what it is. Be patient. No one who doesn't know the answer is going to post "I don't know." It can take days to a week for someone to notice. Remember that some inquiries may require research, for which volunteers are not being paid, and are doing as they have time. Expect that opinions may vary, even among experienced numismatists. Realize that if you're rude and/or difficult, your problem is not the people who take time to fight with you. Your problem is the people who, without a word, mark you down as someone not to bother with in the future--because you have no idea who or how many they are, and thus have no power to alleviate that diagnosis. Kindly do not:
Just post pictures without giving any indication of what you want to learn. Post glare-obscured, blurry, or otherwise poor photos. Post only partial pictures of errors or damage. Complain that your pics are too big to post. Use an image editor to crop and save them as .jpgs. Get defensive when told your pics are not good. Maybe you're bad at photography; maybe you don't have a good camera; maybe the photography gods just don't like you. If you can do better, do so. If you cannot do better, than just accept that this limits how much we can help you. Post a new thread for every photo of the same coin. Post new threads in the same forum, or other forums, with reference to the same coin. Once suffices. The shotgun approach makes one look impatient and immature. Use a meaningless thread title like "looking for advice" or "no idea what 2 do" or "plz help." Those tell people nothing about the discussion except that it was begun by someone who picks meaningless thread titles. Omit weight and diameter, unless they are completely irrelevant to your question. Get annoyed if you don't like the answers. If you disagree with them, fine; act on your views. Ask us to tell you how we know it's a counterfeit. While that's a legit question on its face, the problem is that even if you didn't mint the fake, those who make them are always looking for ways to improve. We frown upon supplying helpful feedback to criminals, and so should you. So no, don't ask us that. And if we tell you politely that we aren't going into detail, don't get annoyed because you don't like that answer. Grouse about not getting any replies. No one knows everything; no one has unlimited time; sometimes no one knows the answer. Come in telling how many Youtube videos you have watched about coins. This will lower your credibility. Use Photobucket links. If you do, don't anticipate that people will use them. Photobucket has been connected with numerous malware and virus infections. Spell 'nickel' as 'nickle.' Whether referring to the element or the five-cent coin, this misspelling is a very bad look. If you take the time to do this correctly, you can learn a lot more here than if you skip important steps.
If you do not take the time to do this correctly, some posters may decide that their time is better spent helping other people.
Lastly, here is a Cliff's Notes version that would take care of 95% of the most common disappointed inquiries. If you want to post yours anyway, fine, but just please kindly do not engage in a protracted and dullard debate when you are told that:
Your 1804 silver dollar is a bad counterfeit. Look up authentic examples and compare closely. Your 1776 Continental dollar is a bad counterfeit or a souvenir replica. Many were churned out. What you think is a double die is almost surely mechanical doubling, which carries no premium. What you think is a mint error is likely post-mint damage, and your coin is worth face value. Your "silver" non-1943 penny is plated, replated, has had the plating come off, is altered, or somesuch. Your "bronze" 1943 penny is altered somehow, and is worth very little. Your Greek "silver" coin with flanges sticking out of its edges is a bad cast counterfeit. Your cheesy-looking brass token is not gold, and is not a coin. Any clown can mint brass tokens with bad designs. Cleaning your coins is a stupid idea. Yes, even for you. You, too. If you ask how, listen to the people who tell you not to do so. If you cite Etsy as an authority, people will laugh their heads off with good reason. This is horrible for your cred. If you cite a Youtube video as an authority, people will laugh with good reason. This is bad for your cred. If you have more than three supposed error coins you found in change, and plan to post them all, the odds are overwhelming that none of them are mint errors worthy of note. If you keep posting these without seeming to learn, people might conclude that learning is not your thing. There, that rounds up the usual suspects. I'm not saying those answers are automatically always right. However, as the strongest probabilities, they should be presumed correct unless they can be proven wrong. If you have one child and something is broken in the house, not by you or your spouse, typically the child did it. If you can prove the kid innocent, fair enough; but you know the kid almost surely did it. If you argue about a "double die" at fatuous length when it's clear you don't know what one really is, you will look like the kid with soot all over him insisting he didn't really dig around in the fireplace.
Don't be that kid.
===
Opinions, comments, additions, suggestions?

Personally, I think they're going to be the next numismatic fad, just like the 2014 Baseball coins.  They're going to be hotter than the sun for five minutes, resulting in a high mintage for a modern commemorative and then they're going to tank in value within the next year.  I'd say if someone likes them, go for it, but don't buy them with an investment mindset or looking to profit from them in the long run.  The only way anyone other than the US Mint will profit from these is if they do sell out.  Then flippers right after the sellout is announced will be able to turn a profit, I think.  But if they don't sell out fast, I'd say that they're going to follow the trajectory of any other modern US commemorative coin and that there will be no profit or investment potential.

Agreed.....NGC is definitely more fair here as you can include PCGS coins in the Custom Sets.  PCGS is the one who started this whole "our coins only" mentality with their Registry.  NGC had good reasons for making the changes they did regarding PCGS coins in the competitive sets, but you guys are still beating them up for doing what PCGS has done all along?  Wow........just wow.

And same here with me as well....I've never had a problem like this either.  And, I think the guy who was saying that NGC switched a coin on him actually doesn't know what he's talking about.  Like Conder, I see the same coin in both photos, but under different lighting conditions.  I've only had one issue with NGC's certification since I started submitting to them in 2010 ( it was with a variety attribution, nothing like a suspected switch) and they're actually fixing that up for me right now.  Like you, Karen, I'm loyal to them.  I love NGC.  They've given me the ability to have a little vestpocket sales venture so I can keep collecting coins while I'm working on my Doctorate, they've awarded me a Registry Award last year for my favorite coin collection I've ever done (my birds are dinosaurs collection), they've created this wonderful community that I get to be a part of......NGC has done nothing but enhance numismatics for me and, to me, they are simply the best TPG, no question.  And, like you Rick, I really dig their holders as well!  One of the best ways to protect and display a coin that I know of.........I just wish they'd give us regular guys more opportunities to get our coins slabbed in the black Retro Holders instead of reserving them for the big, bulk submission guys, but that's a very minor issue.  NGC is great, and they are the only TPG that gets my business. 

Agreed.....NGC is definitely more fair here as you can include PCGS coins in the Custom Sets.  PCGS is the one who started this whole "our coins only" mentality with their Registry.  NGC had good reasons for making the changes they did regarding PCGS coins in the competitive sets, but you guys are still beating them up for doing what PCGS has done all along?  Wow........just wow.

Hi Tom,
I will send you an email shortly with submission instructions. Thank you for your patience in this matter. 

hoping all goes well Mohawk!!!

Hi Matt,
Thank you for your reply to this matter.  I really do appreciate it.  I have a further question however........I was looking at NGC's services and fees, and I saw a listing for Designation Review but it said to submit varieties under Variety Plus and I didn't see a specific listing for Grader Review.  How should I go about submitting this coin for the review by Dave Lange?  I want to make sure I do it correctly so that this situation can hopefully be resolved.  I will also be sure to indicate that I am looking for the Friendly Eagle attribution as well. 
In closing, I'd like to thank you for your help on this Matt and for your patience.  I know that I sounded quite frustrated in my first reply to you and I am, but not at you at all.  It's just the situation, that's all.  You've been very helpful to me and highly professional as well.  It is noticed and greatly appreciated.
~Tom

Hi Matt,
I thank you for your reply, however my problem remains unsolved.  This coin is a 1971-D Friendly Eagle based on all of the features of the reverse and, for some reason, your variety expert cannot seem to see that on this coin.  Has this variety expert reviewed my microscope photos because the features are crystal clear in the photos and there is no cause for confusion.   It's very disappointing that NGC's variety expert cannot see that this coin is a Friendly Eagle, and it's an MS 66, so this situation is costing me a lot of money because NGC's lack of attribution has forced this coin into a kind of limbo.  I am not pleased with this at all and I'm gathering for your response that NGC is just done here, your expert has proclaimed that this coin is not the Friendly Eagle and I'm just stuck.  Do I have to go to the competition to get this coin properly attributed?  I really do not want to do that but as of right now NGC is not giving me a choice.  I've been a happy customer of NGC for 8 years, but now NGC is going to cost me money by not attributing a coin that is a scarce variety as that variety.  Is there anyone I can contact to discuss this situation further because I'm not pleased by this at all.
~Tom

Thank you for your post. Please submit the coin to NGC as a "Grader Review - Attention Dave Lange." Please also notate that you are looking for the Friendly Eagle Variety. Even though the images are very close up it is difficult to be certain if the variety can be attributed due to the glare near the eagles head. We will review the coin and attribute if deemed to be the proper variety. Thank you for your patience in this matter. 

Hello and Welcome,
Well, from what I can see, you have a normal circulation strike 1964 cent.  A proof coin will have mirrored surfaces and sharp details as proofs are struck at least twice on polished planchets using polished dies.  As for SMS coins for 1964, they are extremely rare prototypes for the full scale 1965 SMS coinage and I believe that all of the known examples came from the estate of Eva Adams, who was the Director of the US Mint at the time that SMS coins were struck.  But an SMS coin from 1964 will have a similar appearance to one from 1965, with a satiny luster similar to a Business Strike but with a sharp strike and level of detail similar to true Proof Strikes.  However, I wouldn't worry about 1964 SMS coins for the reasons listed above.  You won't just randomly find one.
I hope this is of some help!
~Tom