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Posts posted by Just Bob
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( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.)
The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors. To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize.
Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions:
Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.)
Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.
- RonnieR131, Sandon and GoldFinger1969
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Welcome to the forum.
If that were my coin, I would leave it just the way it is. I definitely would not have it put in a slab.
Just my opinion, of course.
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On 10/18/2023 at 8:05 AM, Mr_Spud said:
Here’s some Civil War Tokens I purchased recently. The first 2 are using coin images used with permission from eBay seller Steve Hayden where I inserted the pictures into my template. The PCGS one uses images from a Trueview and the others are from another seller (used with his permission) where I also inserted them into my templates.
Those are gorgeous.
Steve has quality tokens, that's for sure. His auctions often bring prices that other sellers can't get.
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On 10/18/2023 at 12:28 PM, Sandon said:The "Magnum Opus" label is likely some dealer's marketing gimmick and has nothing to do with the coin itself.
If your coin is a Lincoln cent and is dated 1983 or later, it is composed of copper-plated zinc (official weight of 2.5 grams). If it is dated 1981 or earlier, it is composed of 95% copper alloy (official weight of 3.11 grams). (See the "Redbook".) If it happens to be dated 1982, you probably can't tell for sure, and we wouldn't even have a clue without photos. It is not possible to weigh a coin that has been "slabbed".
On 10/18/2023 at 12:56 PM, Greenstang said:The date by itself tells you it is a zinc coin
Never heard a coin called "a great work" before, original owner must have really liked it.
According to CoinfinderDave's first post, his coin has no date. That is probably why he asked how to tell what the composition was.
To Dave: if you are using your phone to take pics and post here, try using the edit function to crop your photo. If that doesn't reduce the file size under 4.88 MB, then use the edit function to resize. If your phone does not have this capability, your app store should have a free app to edit photos.
If using a pc or laptop, MSPaint is the perhaps easiest way to resize. I reduce most of my pictures by 50%, or more, and they are still large enough to see details without taking up the whole page.
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On 10/15/2023 at 7:30 PM, ldhair said:
My plans have changed just the last year or so. I no longer feel it would be right to make my family deal with my collection. Because of this, I'm in the process of selling most of the collection. I will be saving some special coins along with junk silver and gold to pass down. I only buy a few coins per year and that may not change.
If you sell at auction, I want a copy of the catalog.
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Those are some really nice circulation finds.
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To me, they are as distracting as scratches. I feel the same about planchet adjustment marks on early gold and silver coins. That doesn't mean that I would never add one to my collection. It does mean that, given a choice between coins with and without die polish lines (or planchet adjustment marks), I would choose the coin without.
Oddly, there are other things that are distracting to many collectors that don't really bother me, like fingerprints.
- Fenntucky Mike and rrantique
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The most likely explanation is that the round indention on the obverse was caused by a coin rolling machine. The fact that it is the same size as the circular design on the reverse is a happy (or unhappy) coincidence.
- powermad5000 and EagleRJO
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I did a quick search of sold items on Ebay, and found that off-center broad struck cents are selling for $10-$30 on average. Blank cent planchets are going for around $3. Better pics are needed to see if that is actually a clipped planchet error (do some reading on the "Blakesley Effect.) It is hard to get a feel for what a real one might bring, because a lot of the ones listed on Ebay, including the ones that have sold, do not look like actual clipped planchet errors. Most look homemade, to me. That being said, it looks like you might could get $5-$10 or so for yours, if it is real.
(For the record, I am not implying that you made the clipped planchet. Just saying that I can't tell if it is a genuine mint error or not from just that one picture of the obverse.)
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Thanks. I have been wanting to see some coins that have been confirmed by a member to have actually been found in a dryer. You can find pictures labeled as "dryer coins" all over the place, but you never know if the coins were really found in a dryer, or if they were found elsewhere and just given that label.
- Modwriter and Hoghead515
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On 10/7/2023 at 2:27 PM, Hoghead515 said:
Looks likes its been caught in the tumbler of a dryer. My dryer tore up earlier this week and ive been working on it. I found over $13 worth of change in the bottom of it and 3 of them in there looked just like this where they got caught up in the tumbler. '
Please post pictures of those, Hog.
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Nice pickups!
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I'm sorry. I realize this has nothing to do with me, but I really don't understand. Why would you need to see this or any coin in hand to know if NGC would grade it or not? Isn't there a list of coins/tokens/medals that they do or do not encapsulate? If you looked at a picture of a Morgan dollar, or an Ethiopian birr, or a Dix civil war token, you would be able to look on your list and say, "yep, we grade those." How is this coin any different?
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In the description, it states, "Cert #s will vary." The seller could be using a stock photo that he/she made by combining pictures of two different slabs. The fact that there are two different backgrounds in the NGC pic makes me wonder if they didn't mix up their photos, too. Regardless, I am always wary when things don't seem completely on the up-an-up. I would find another seller if I were looking to buy one of these.
Good eye.
Welcome to the forum.
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On 9/29/2023 at 9:21 PM, JKK said:
Dang vang sweet....uh, never mind.
Motor City Madman?
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Nothing in Rulau that I could find.
I don't have a copy of Brunk's counterstamp book, but Rich Hartzog's old website has a master list of the merchants in the book, and I could not find a JAP on that list.
Sorry
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Same thing, different terminology. PCGS uses deep cameo; NGC uses ultra cameo.
- EagleRJO, Coinbuf, RonnieR131 and 1 other
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From Russell Rulau's U.S Merchant Tokens 1845-1860: "George Clark was a blacksmith at 118 Wistar St., listed 1857-1875
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Click here for a short article explaining the difference between proof coins and circulation strike coins: Link
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It seems to me that if the reverse was struck through a grease-filled die, it would still have a proto rim, since that would have been formed before the planchet entered the coining chamber. Since the rim appears to be worn even with the surface of the coin around almost the entire circumference, my vote is post-mint damage. The lack of scratches or other evidence of damage could be due to the coin spending some time in circulation after the fact.
- jmcpenny, powermad5000, EagleRJO and 2 others
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Welcome to the forum. May we see a picture of the obverse side?
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How do you choose a favorite between those two? Great looking pair!
Post your 5 cent pieces.
in US, World, and Ancient Coins
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