EagleRJO

The values NGC is quoting are from the Price Guide found here ... https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/dollars/morgan-dollars-1878-1921/17118/1880-s-1-ms/?des=ms Note that they list the $34.50 value for the lowest circulated grade of PrAg and the $63 is for the highest circulated grade of AU58+, with there being only mint state or uncirculated values above that. The $29,000 is shown for the highest listed grade so far at a unicorn MS69, with only 5 MS69 coins graded by NGC and no MS70 grades listed. An MS69 for that coin would be extremely rare, and thus the very high price that then starts dropping like a rock below that. The $34,50 for a PrAg may have been melt value at the time the chart was done, which is a little old, and spot prices for silver have dropped a lot recently. So it is understandable that just slapping a current date on what may be old prices can be confusing. Current melt for that coin would be around $20 (26.7g / 31.1 g per toz x $24.1 $ per toz spot today). Also note that some collectors actually seek the lowest possible grade for some coins when doing a "lowball set" which awards more points as the grade goes down. As a result, sometimes you will see higher prices for the lowest grades compared to mid grade circulated coins. As others have noted your coin is likely worth melt value, unless there just happens to be several people working on the same lowball set competing for the coin, which is not very common but I have seen it happen watching bidding of Morgans at Great Collections.

Also stack something up to reset your arm on while taking a phone pic. The difference becomes very apparent when you zoom in on the pic taken.

Attached is a digital overlay of the outside diameter of an Ike Dollar to check the size of the cut. It is almost spot on, and I would say within the accuracy of the method to be a match. So there would be no need to try and fit another Ike dollar in the cutout. That leaves just the appearance of the edge rubbing me the wrong way, where the right side of the edge looks like it was filed down to clean up a vice job cut with one of the punches discussed and unlike the clean cut a blanking machine would produce.

Powermad, I have used that tool before for very thick sheet metal, as well as the bolt-up threaded punches, but those are not exactly what I was thinking about. Very similar to the one you posted [but more like the attached], which I think would have made a clean cut. Perhaps the different appearance on the right side of the edge is from filing down the edge to remove any rolled metal from the cut using tools like the ones you posted. I am leaning towards a legit clipped planchet error with the weak edge opposite the cut, but the size of the clip and edge appearance are still rubbing me the wrong way.

Similar to that as noted. I didn't find the one I was thinking of from a quick search, but it didn't come with gromets. It's been a while but It may have been intended for punching holes in studs and was just being used for mechanical work. Bottom line is it was a very expensive tool that would not just be left laying around to do a vice job on a coin with a nice clean cut, similar to the mint punch machine.

I think that makes the edge appearance even more of a mystery, and why I would be very interested in finding out the submission results. We may be talking about the same tool, but just similar to the one described, which I think is available as hydraulic actuated for thicker metal that is used in the mechanical field. That would likely easily clip a corner of pretty thick sheet metal, and the edge of a coin. But not likely the more common and inexpensive bolt up threaded punches which tend to bind when there isn't equal resistance, let alone trying to clip off just one side with it and get a clean cut (unlike a raw punch or enlarging a hole where there is equal perimeter resistance). I have had problems with using these bolt up punches with say one side on a seam of thicker metal similar to a coin. In my mind it's not very likely that someone doing a vice job will have an expensive specialty tool like the hydraulic punch being discussed that could do a cut with a single squeeze, although it is possible.

Glad to hear that it looks like they are legit with the coins being included in an upcoming SB auction. What about the 3 Mace 6 Candareens which was the only really questionable one with a thickness that was way off at 2.09mm vs the 1.50mm spec?

Crop the pics to just larger than the coin which should reduce the file size considerably. It's a better way to post pics anyway as it presents a better view of the con without downloading and enlarging the pic. Also about the coin, with missing letters it's likely either damage or a struck-through mint error. However, it is probably damage as strike through errors are not very common. See the following link for some help with strike through errors. https://www.error-ref.com/?s=Struck+Through+Errors

Really, "anything"? He keeps saying the same sell point twice, which just sounds weird.

I have used those also, which are basically bolt up punches, and I'm not sure it would really work on the edge of a coin. I was referring to a bolt cutter like tool, maybe with a hose, for holes in thick sheet metal that could be used to clip off an edge. That could be used to clip off the edge of a coin in a vice, maybe with two squeezes consistent with the edge appearance, but again the weak edge opposite the cut and someone possibly filing the edge aside.

Perhaps the shiny appearance on the right side of the cut edge is from a filing. The more I look at the edge and cut the more I think its a vice job, but then there is the distinct weak edge opposite the cut. Perhaps it is legit and someone cleaned up the edge cut to make it look nicer. If this is sent in I would be very curious to know the results of that submission.

A mistake on some counterfeits, and something to keep an eye out for with raw coins, is a mismatched obverse and reverse. The 2021 Type-1 ASE Jessie posted above has the wrong reverse of 2007. This is the diagnostic.

There are HVAC tools used to punch circular holes in heavy ductwork that could be used to produce cuts like that, but I think it becomes apparent to collectors.

When you get the coin back post the results either way as it's always interesting and educational to learn the results.

I thought about the clad later possibly causing the two different edge surfaces, with the cut from right to left in the pic, but it's too thick. That points to a vice job also.

Idk, I think it's a toss up if it's real or altered. The edges look a little rough, and the side view of the cut surface seems to show two attempts or squeezes to cut through the coin, whereas a mint clip would be one cut. However, the following article on clipped coin errors talks about looking for the Blakesley Effect opposite the clip, which is a weak edge, and that does appear to be present (at least on the reverse). It might be worth submitting to a TPG since there is a weak edge opposite the clip, and that is a pretty good sized clip. Link: Article on Clipped Coin Errors

Welcome to the forum! Some Numista data and auction results for your information if the coin is legit. I learned a while ago that it's very difficult to grade or authenticate gold coins just from pics unless you are very familiar with the coin. You may have some luck showing it to a dealer selling those coins at a coin show, but it's not a common coin so your best bet is likely to just submit it to a TPG. https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces17054.html https://www.pcgs.com/valueview/danish-west-indies/1904-p-gj-4-dal-km-72/1111?sn=139175&g=64&h=auctionprices Great Collections Auction Archives - 1904-P GJ 4 Daler (20 Francs) KM-72

That is a D mark, as it wouldn't have a mark if from the Philly mint. It would have to be like a unicorn MS-67 valued over $1,000 (drops like a rock below that if not toned), a DDO or RPM to be worth submitting, which I don't think it is.

Looking at the coins you posted I agree none of them would be candidates for grading submission. Special circumstances aside, they don't have a value of at least around $300 or more, so Just keep them in your own holders. Do you have a list and pics of the coins already submitted?

Well, to make it interesting maybe post a list of the coins you submitted with descriptions and what grade you think they will come back. Also, it looks like you just posted pics of the coins.

Welcome to the forum! I agree with @JKK that the correct answer to possibly sending in more coins for grading is "none of them", at least until you can learn more about them and grading imo. I also agree with @Sandon that you really should learn more about coins before purchasing them. When I was considering buying some older silver dollars for a collection a while back, I came to this board to ask what I thought were some simple questions. I then realized how misinformed I was on certain things from watching some YT vids, and how much I didn't know about the coins I was interested in collecting and evaluating the ones I wanted to purchase, since I was just a roll hunter at the time. I took the advice of several more experienced board members like JPM, JKK, Sandon, Coinbuf, etc, and spent a considerable amount of time reading books and researching the coins I was interested in, as well as how to grade them and how to identify problem coins before buying them. That has served me very well, and has carried over into other types of coins I was interested in collection by following the mantra "know the coin before you buy the coin". I also learned to be more patient, and avoid one of the top mistakes in buying coins which is being willing to overlook problems a coin had, just because I wanted the coin and maybe at a good price. And if you already have coins you purchased that are not in protective holders I would recommend you just put them is capsules or NGC style holders similar to the attached by TeamWill or PCCB.

You can check eBay Sold Listings (not initial listings) for similar coins to get an idea of what they are going for.

@JE1227550Have you calibrated your scale and used a control weight to make sure it is reading accurately? Also, is it strongly or weakly attracted to a magnet?

@powermad5000Adds to what weight? The mint spec for a 1945 1C is 3.11g +/- 0.13g and the op's coin is 3.04g. If you nickel plate a 1945 shell casing brass cent like the op's coin the weight should be above the original mint spec weight, but it isn't. However, if you nickel plate a coin struck on steel cent planchet used in 1943, with a mint spec weight of 2.75g, it likely would be close to the 3.04g weight of the op's coin and also be magnetic. The plot thickens.