EagleRJO

I agree the coin on the left has been trashed, and has some environmental and post mint damage (PMD) at the rims. Even so, what errors are you thinking this coin has? If you have read through some similar posts you will know the members generally don't play the guessing game.

Sometimes counterfeits are made by private entities with the intent that they be put into circulation due to a lack of coins in a region. So they are made with the same materials, weights and dimensions. An example of these "circulation counterfeits" I am familiar with is the Spanish 8 Reales, which were prolific throught Asia for use in trade due to a lack of coins in the late 1800's to early 1900's. While I am not familiar with the Yuan coins, I suspect and it does appear that there are similar issues with them having circulation counterfeits where just checking physical properties becomes inconclusive. It then becomes necessary to compare the coins with certified genuine examples in order to tell if they are legit.

I take measurements of all raw coins as a matter of course. The next step I take is to compare them very carefully to certified genuine examples. I think that is the best a collector can do until they develop a "feel" for if a coin is genuine which could take decades.

In addition to losing the mint seal and risking coin damage by the TPG from the removal thats on you, submitting them for grading results in a $50 to $80 loss as the very minor value bump if any doesn't come close to covering the grading cost. All of my direct from mint coins, including ASEs and Morgans except modern dollars, are in and will remain in the OGP.

I saw that from a quick check and several hundred for an empty album is over the top. I would go with the generic Littleton album before I spent that much on just a Dansco album.

The numbers look good, within around 10% or so, except the 3 Mace 6 Candareens which has a thickness that is way off. Likely indicates a cast replica or counterfeit which are typically thicker due to the lighter materials to get the same weight. Very organized data recording. I'm assuming you have a scientific background.

Hmmm, signing a release to remove it? Makes you wonder why and if you should keep it in the OGP, which is what I would do.

Here is the info I dug up that I think is for your coins including weight and measurements ... https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces274919.html Take a look and see if that matches. Unfortunately it seems like replicas and restrikes of these coins are prolific. Most have a different composition and diffent physical properties and some are modern silver restrikes ... https://en.numista.com/catalogue/exonumia55225.html https://www.apmex.com/product/240641/2021-china-1-oz-antique-silver-kwang-tung-dollar-restrike Accordingly, taking measurements would only be an indicator.

If you could provide the diameter and thickness to 0.1mm and the weight to 0.01g for a few representative coins along with pics of both sides for those weighed coins that would be helpful.

No need to buy ASE's graded as they are only bullion coins. Just buy them raw in mint state (BU raw grade) from a reputable bullion dealer like Apmex, JD Bullion or Littleton for a little over spot plus a dealer mark-up, which is somewhat more for older ones based on demand. Keep in mind that spot prices for silver have been volatile, but appear to be at a relative low historically per the chart posted above. Apmex 2022 BU Grade Silver Eagle Ampex 1986 BU Grade Silver Eagle - First Year Issued Then you can put them in albums, like the ones referenced above, or your own holders like capsules or after market slabs. Direct-Fit Silver Eagle Coin Capsule NGC Style Silver Eagle Coin Slab

Another option is to go with a generic Littleton album with blank pages that fit the coins. They also sell stick-on year labels for the blank pages.

For 1982 to present that would be Dansco Album No. 7232 or Littleton Album No. LCA56. Others may make them. Doesn't seem to be readily available, so it's likely on backorder or discontinued and probably why your asking. eBay is probably your best shot. https://www.danscousa.com/

I usually do pretty much the same with a 1 ounce or 100g gold bar and multiples of 10 ounce silver bars, and then each year add a gold bullion coin and silver ASE since I like the way those look.

Depends on what you consider to be better. For Bullion I occasionally purchase both bars and coins, with the coins having more of a premium and a little higher spread. However, the coins are much nicer, and in the case of ASE's a collectible item with things like the Littleton albums noted above.

Ditto, except I like the Littleton albums for ASE's which have a book like binder spline with a label so you can see what it is on a bookshelf.

ASE are bullion coins, and below MS70 without special labels don't carry much of a premium and in general follow bullion spot prices from bid results on the referenced sites.

The MS70 Silver Eagles with no special label seem to be going for several hundred in general ATM looking at some bid results from Great Collections and eBay, which historically seems to be at a good price. As the grade goes down to MS69 and lower prices drop like a rock, and bullion prices for silver are down considerably at about $22 per ounce when it looks like it should be in the high $20's to low $30's per ounce. I would look at each year and label ASE you are considering selling and the specific bid results on sites like the two referenced, as well as the historical bullion prices, to make those decisions.

I second that. A scope has a very limited practical use such as attributing a variety or checking die markers. A collector is typically just looking at a coin, or at best using a 5x to 10x loupe or mag glass.

Would be nice to see you back posting again Hoop!

Nice! Okay spill the beans, what did you get that coin for?

@Chad 64Mr.Bill collects and bids on many ASE's, and I agree with his advice as a fellow ASE collector. The possibility of loosing the MS70 grade just isn't worth the risk imo. When you go down to an MS69 the value drops like a rock, even with NGC or the other big boy. Some examples of sold coins (not listings) from eBay to consider follow ... ANACS Example 1 ANACS Example 2 ANACS Example 3 NGC Example 1 NGC Example 2 NGC Example 3

I don't have access to my die and more importantly punch information, and will take a look for you when I can. In the meantime, could you post the weight to 0.01g as well as the diameter and thickness to 0.1mm as indicators. It would also be helpful to post pictures of the edge all the way around the coin showing the pattern and any changes.

That's how you end up with a 2023 circulation quarter struck on a pure silver planchet, with that off-the-rails error periodically asked about here, as the new DEI forklift operator grabbed a pure silver coil to make planchets for the circulation strike run of quarters.

Hey @Mr.Bill347that may be a really good idea to use the Intercept Shield (IS) "Proof Set Box" with some kind of spacer, as the OGP for the proof ASE's and 2021 Morgans I have are smaller than the mint sets. Since you have some of the IS proof boxes could you do me a favor and measure the inside clear width height of the box. I know the outside at 5-3/4" but not the inside, so I can maybe figure out some kind of spacer. That would be a big help.

In addition to posting pics of the coin here, including both sides and a close that best represents the detritus, contact customer service of the grading company who slabbed the coin. It may be bits of pizza crust from the grader's lunch who put the coin in a slab.