EagleRJO

The Sacagawea dollar is not gold. It is mostly copper with several other alloys to give it the dullish golden color. I would look for some of the oldest coins in the collection that are still in good condition as a possibility for some to keep. Also Morgan dollars with a "CC" mint mark (located at the bottom of the coin back) can be valuable. You can check the following webpage for some ballpark values of Morgans, which are what a dealer may list a coin for and not what a dealer may pay for a coin which would likely be significantly less. https://www.usacoinbook.com/coins/dollars/morgan/

Something similar from that era may be a good pick to set aside for yourself. I would briefly dip the coin in acetone to get rid of fingerprints and oils from your hand, and then put it in a slab holder similar to what's discussed here for protection. https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/429835-i-found-some-nice-professional-coin-slabs-on-amazon/ Did you inherit any gold coins? They are of course more valuable and I think look nicer.

Looking at the surface depression near the top of the coin it appears to have jagged edges and gets deeper from the top going down. So I would tend to agree.

so, @Errorfinderhow has it worked out across the street at PCG$?

You will find games involving collecting coin symbols like the attached, but I don't believe there is enough of a player base to develop one about the history or hobby of coin collecting. Even if there was, I think it would end up being more of an app and not a game. https://www.eneba.com/steam-coin-dash-pc-steam-key

I think that's a good suggestion

You can use the attached to identify machine doubling, which does not add any value.

If you are just looking to sell them bring the entire collection to several local coin shops for estimates. Be prepared for lower than expected numbers as it seems like most are not graded, if the pics are representative of the collection, as they will likely go low on grades. Also, they need to buy them at a price where they can turn around and sell them at market prices at a profit.

I keep all of the coins I get direct from the mint in the OGP. As others mentioned, not only is there a potential for contamination but imo it's a waste of $80, and usually a loss, to have a TPG put it in a coin coffin. I actually like the way the coins look in the OGP better than a slabbed coin.

It does look like the composition was changed to brass in 1962 (1944 to 1946 "shell casing brass" aside) based on the attached mint specs from ANA and the US mint as published by Coin World.

I'm confused. I don't understand how you can have the X-1 currency coin that does not have the denomination on that coin. Was it misidentified by NGC as someone else suggested? Or perhaps I am just stuck with the mindset of how US coins are done.

Interesting. Where can you get that. I might try it out on a few junk coins I have just out of curiosity.

I was just amazed at the size, length (5 football fields long) and weight of the coils the mint uses to produce the blanks.

"Rolls" was not the correct term, although accurate descriptively. The US mint uses huge "Coils" of various composition metals to produce blanks. They are about two feet wide and 1,500 feet long! Attached is a pic of a coil being handled by special equipment due to the weight. For size comparison you can see under the coil pallet the legs of a worker in black pants just beyond the equipment. The US mint still produces blanks for all coins except pennies, numismatic coins, and bullion coins which are purchased from private companies. So the mint does produce the blanks for quarters. See this link to a US mint webpage with that info ... https://www.usmint.gov/learn/production-process/coin-production

@Sandon, @RWB, et al. Although the op's coin is definitely clad, I am just curious about the possibility of there being 90% silver quarter rolls at the Philadelphia mint, even though they may not be striking anything that would require those rolls for a particular year, such as 2005 for the coin being discussed. If they have struck "S" mark silver proofs at that mint in the past, what do they do with any leftover rolls? It would seem like they would just store them for possible future use. And then, however astronomically unlikely, what if the new unqualified forklift driver they hired to meet DEI targets mistakenly grabs a leftover silver roll for a clad run. The poor product quality, poor quality control, poor product packaging, and other issues that are coming up since the mint went woke early last year makes me wonder if that actually could happen.

If you stick around posting coins and questions you will lean quite a lot about coins and coin collecting in general, including the answer to your question and identifying clad coins which occasionally comes up. If you are interested there is an excellent thread by @Sandonon resources for collectors with many references I find to be invaluable.

Funny you added the flag. I ran a business a while ago that used something very similar to the attached as a company logo.

I would use the PCG$ CoinFacts for specific certified comparison coins, which has 1921-D PO1 thru 1921-D MS67+ for comparison (see the following link). NGC doesn't have a comparable reference of I would link that. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1921-d-1/images/7298 Also, even if NGC VarietyPlus doesn't have the VAM-1AE2, that is the one that matches spot on. It's not a special variety so it probably doesn't matter if submitted to NGC for grading, which I wouldn't recommend doing as the coin's NGC value is only $40 for a AU, and slightly less for an XF.

People have been very consistent that your coin is a normal circulated 1955 Lincoln Cent, and it is not the very valuable 1955 DDO variety, minor anomalies aside. The attached is a comparison of Lincoln's head for your coin vs the uncirculated 1955-S posted above, as well as some focus areas for that coin. I would also go to the focus areas for that coin in the latest ANA Grading Standards, which I don't have in front of me now to quote.

You definitely mixed up the coins as the one worth a lot is the 1955 DDO with very clear doubling of the lettering and the date, like the one Sandon posted. The one originally posted is not the valuable 1955 DDO.

Seems like the mint is getting every coin possible out of a pair of dies, just like the old days. Makes for a little more interesting roll hunting, even if they are not worth a premium. And I like a cost conscious government that works for us. It's all good. You can tag them using @name or quote them if it's intended for an individual. However, it is a post in an open forum, so if you only want a particular individual to see a post then send them a PM. Btw, welcome to the forum, and since you are newer I would recommend checking out the following thread posted by Sandon ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/428817-resources-for-new-collectors/#comment-9817530

Teach a man to fish ...

Completely agree. I have a scope and only use it to verify what I am seeing with no or little magnification, or to look for specific die markers when evaluating a coin. I'm not sure what you are referring to, and were provided straight forward answers, so maybe you could elaborate.

Hey Bill, that looks like an AU Details due to the cleaning scratches, and struck at an early die state of a VAM-1AE2, but which still definitively matches a good amount of the die markers. Also, the one near the mint mark with a blue arrow appears to be a scratch. @Mr.Bill347Btw, you are getting good at taking better coin pics which made it easier to match up die markers. How did you take the full coin pics?

I agree but sometimes it's difficult to tell for sure with just pics. You can use the attached with the coin in-hand to confirm the MD.