EagleRJO

Yes, it's from Capital Plastics which is still in business ... https://www.capitalplastics.com/index.html ... and the attached is from the Capital catalog I was looking at with the type set holder. I just refer to the plastic coin capsules and such generically as "air-tites" which is kind of a brand name, like Band-Aid. Capital has a bunch of small multi-coin holders and type sets in their catalog, but I thought this one was unusual due to the 12x12 size, which reminded me of a small coin board.

This is one big Capital Plastics Air-Tite coin capsule. Reminds me of a small coin board, but encapsulated.

Dealers using stock photos is common, so seeing that holder and certification number on a listing even though you purchased that coin may just be the dealer is still using the same coin as a stock photo. Also, the NGC certification number is composed of a 6 or 7 digit invoice number, a dash, and then a 3 digit coin number associated with that invoice. They may have submitted a large number of coins at the same time to save money and they would all have the same invoice number, but a distinct coin number.

Nice. I like the Type 2 better also. Too bad they are still doing the cheesy dollar store cardboard and plastic presentation boxes.

Nice! Are you going to get a raw 2020-W Nickel say off eBay, or possibly you already have it from a set previously broken up to plug the last hole? It does look like they have just the nickel on eBay.

Just a generic label and adjectival grade from a bulk submission, where it would likely be a lower end numeric MS grade since it was below a grading cut-off by the dealer. I just noticed it has a stage coach label, which I agree doesn't seem to fit with a 1921 Peace dollar. And it seems to be missing a certification number, which it should have if graded BU by PCG$,

I believe this is the coin discussed in a previous topic here ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/430247-brilliant-uncirculated-totally-lost/#comment-9838576 That Brilliant Uncirculated or BU adjectival grade coin is a mint state coin without any defects, where to save some money the dealer didn't request a number grade. I have almost all raw coins in my collection, with the vast number of them (both raw and slabbed) being BU grade. That is fine by me as I really don't care if a paper label says BU, MS62 or MS66. It is all about how the coin looks and if I really like it, not about what some number conveying someone's opinion says on a label. I collect coins and not labels. I have a bunch of similar BU graded Morgan dollars in my collection like the attached, which I only purchased slabbed because I really like the holders which seemed to fit with the period the Morgan's were issued as a little bit of a back-story for them. They would be lower end numerical grade MS coins, but again it's not about a number for me. Bottom line is if you are happy with the coin, not what is on some paper label.

As a follow up concerning resources, there are often common questions asked in the forums or areas of coin collecting where checking some basic references related to that first can be very helpful or answer questions some may have. It is also useful to have a general list of basic online resources related to coin errors and varieties, which are popular topics. In addition, if coin collecting is a hobby you wish to pursue a copy ot the latest "Red Book" and "ANA Grading Standards" are necessary as a minimum (see attached book covers). Concerning coin errors and varieties of coins, it is important to first understand some basics about how coins are made, what actually is a coin error or variety which may have some value, grades of coins that affect values, what is just post mint damage to a coin that is not valuable, and what are some known or recognized coin errors or varieties. How US Coins are Made: US Mint Coin Production Coin Storage: Use of Double-Pocket Flips - NGC Coin Information & Values: NGC Coin Explorer Coin Grades & Info: PCGS CoinFacts Tools for Grading: PCGS Article on Grading Tools Examining Coins: Farazzi Article ANA YT Coin Videos: ANA Coin Collecting Videos ANA Webinars & Videos: ANA eLearning Academy Error Coin Identification: NGC: "What is a Mint Error" Error Coin Reference: https://www.error-ref.com/ Error Coin Die Failures: Die Cracks & Breaks Error Coin Association: https://www.conecaonline.info/ Error Coin Dealer: Sullivan Numismatics Variety vs Mint Error: NGC: Variety vs. Mint Error Variety Coin Info: http://varietyvista.com/ Doubled Die Varieties: https://doubleddie.com/ Machine Doubling Identification: NGC Machine vs True Doubling Varieties Listings & Pics: NGC VarietyPlus Die Clashes & Overlays: Mad Die Clashes Overlays Copper Coin Varieties: https://www.coppercoins.com Cent Errors & Varieties: The Lincoln Cent Resource Half Dime Varieties: Capped Bust H10C Die Varieties Liberty Seated 50C Varieties: Bugert's LSHD Die Varieties Morgan Dollar Varieties: Morgan Dollar VamWorld Variety Coin Dealer: Brian’s Variety Coins Variety & Error Coin Values: https://varietyerrors.com US Coin Values: NGC Price Guide Counterfeit Coins: Chinese Counterfeits Article PDF Coin Submittals: How to Submit Coins to NGC There are also several topics which are commonly posted where a simple comparison with the attached infographics can provide answers which includes: (a) doubling on a coin resulting from either common machine doubling (aka "strike doubling" and "die deterioration doubling") or less commonly from a doubled die, keeping in mind that deteriorated dies can produce struck coins with a similar appearance to machine doubling; and (b) indicators to use when looking for the astronomically rare "not-going-to-happen-finding-one" 1982-D Lincoln small date copper penny. Please refrain from posting questions or comments in this topic to keep it short and to the point for people seeking information, and instead post a new topic tagging me or send me a PM.

This topic contains some basic information and resources related to coins, including standard coin terminology and help in identifying error and variety coins. This may be useful to those wishing to post questions about coins on the board, or those simply wishing to increase their knowledge about coins. Concerning possible errors related to coins keep in mind that mint errors are very limited to a mistake which can occur with an individual coin during the coin production process, typically at a Coining Press where the coins are struck. See the attached infographic entitled "The Process of Modern Coin Production" for details of the process. Also note that a repeated anomaly which occurs from something that happens to the dies used to strike coins is referred to as a variety. If it can not be identified which part of the production process caused what is observed on a coin, then it is very likely not an error or variety. And it is usually prudent to start with the assumption that what one observes is just damage, and then eliminate that before looking at other possibilities which could have reasonably occurred. Also keep in mind that common issues with circulated coins including wear of a coin or post-mint damage, such as discoloration and impact marks, are not errors or varieties as they usually occur after a coin has been struck and left the mint. For assistance in identifying errors, and distinguishing between that and post-mint issues see the following web references: NGC "What is a Mint Error?" (Total of 4 Parts) Errors Website: www.error-ref.com and the Non-Errors Webpage Concerning using proper terminology related to coins see the attached infographic entitled "Anatomy of a Coin" for the basics, and to look up a term see the NGC "Glossary of Numismatic Terms" found here: (http://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/2202/Glossary/). Knowing and using proper terminology will help in posting questions and conversing with board members as it will more accurately convey what is being asked, increasing the likelihood of having your questions properly answered, and help in understanding information being provided by members. Concerning general questions that people may have about coins and collecting them, it may be something that has been previously asked on the chat boards or information that is readily available on the NGC site, either of which can be searched as follows: To search the NGC Chat boards click on the search icon (magnifying glass) on the top right of a chat board page (https://boards.ngccoin.com/search/), and then type in the question or topic of interest. There are also various filters that can be added to the search. To search the entire NGC site click on the NGC Logo at the top left of any page to go to the NGC home page (http://www.ngccoin.com), and look for the search bar near the top of the page or within the drop down "Menu" tab (multiple horizontal lines) to type in your question or topic of interest. You can also hover over the various drop down menu tabs which have topics of interest that can be explored, including the "Resources" tab as an example which contains many research related topics. Concerning newer collectors who are just starting out in the coin collecting hobby, and others who just want to increase their knowledge about coins, it is important to have and study some basic coin collecting resources. In addition, there are also commonly referenced books on the value of coins as well as true coin errors and varieties. A topic on the chat boards which discusses these resources can be found at the following webpage: Topic: Resources for Newer Collectors Also, when posting questions about specific coins it is important to start a separate thread for each coin, and include clear and focused cropped pictures of the entire coin showing both the obverse (front) and reverse (back) sides of that coin. Close up pictures of specific areas of the coin related to those questions can also be added as desired. However, just posting a picture of one side of a coin or just close up pictures related to a question often does not provide enough information in order for others to properly understand the questions being asked and respond appropriately. And please read the pinned topic entitled "What you need to know about posting coins for inquiry" for detailed information about that. Keep in mind that those responding are just hobbyist that enjoy collecting coins, or those in related fields, who are volunteering their time trying to assist others related to that, and are just providing individual opinions or advice that are not an official response or position of NGC unless stated otherwise. Please refrain from posting questions or comments in this topic to keep it short and to the point for people seeking information, and instead post a new topic tagging me or send me a PM.

If both have the same cert # one of them is a counterfeit

Note that while collectible coins will generally increase in value over time (and sometimes decrease - just ask JPM ) they are not as good as other classic investment types, or bullion bars if you want some precious metals. I think gold and silver bullion coins are a good middle ground between bars and collectible coins, as long as you don't submit ASE's to a TPG to be graded which will result in a loss. I occasionally buy a mix of gold and silver bullion bars and bullion coins as a precious metals investment when it looks like spot prices are relatively low, but of course I like the gold bullion coins the best hands down. This includes Gold Eagles, Saints, Roosters, and Indian Head half eagles as some examples. The 2020 Gold Eagles are particularly stunning in-hand with a Saints obverse and nice reverse (see attached). For silver I like the Type-2 ASE's with the Walking Liberty obverse and flying eagle reverse, but there is the issue of "milk spots". However the Indians are really a mix of bullion and collectible coins, less tied to spot prices than others, and I just like the way they look. Also I do not purchase collectible coins as an "investment".

Welcome to the forum. That is a pretty valuable coin if authentic, and in very good shape. It's hard to evaluate with pics that get blurry when you zoom in, but that should really be done with the coin in-hand anyway. PCGS has guide values that are a little more than NGC, but that is typically the case. https://www.pcgs.com/valueview/10c-1907-1911/1910-landm-27-k-222/4649?sn=161361&g=0&h=coinfacts https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/china-empire-10-cents-k-222-1910-cuid-1046110-duid-1287880 With the potential value of that coin it would definitely be worth it to submit it for grading. This will also determine the authenticity of the coin, increase the resale value, make it easier to sell, as well as critically help protect the coin from damage as they will put it in a hard plastic holder if authentic. If it is a counterfeit NGC will simply return the coin in a flip without putting it in a holder, and wouldn't you want to know if it's a counterfeit anyway. Do you want a coin in your collection where you would never know if it was authentic. I would submit the coin and then post the results here as it is very educational to view a coin and then see how a TPG evaluates that coin. Also, when posting coins on the forum it is helpful to zoom in a little and crop the pictures close to the coin like the attached. I also rotated it a little with a basic app so that it was correctly aligned, which helps when evaluating a coin, like comparing it to a PCGS CoinFacts example like the attached.

That is pretty good, but the coin details get a little blurry when you zoom in a lot. Are you close enough to the coin so the auto-focus stays on just the coin?

Yea, I skipped right to the pic of the coin on the scale, while the other pics clearly show a copper core. I stand corrected.

I don't see any inner core showing and from the weight there has been quite a lot of metal lost, which would probably expose any inner core if it was a coin with that, so it may be an older silver quarter that took a good acid bath. Keep it for the melt value along with other old silver coins not worth more than melt. Also, the rim on a coin is a more dense metal from being rolled and upset, so it would be eaten away at a slower rate. Edit: I stand corrected as I was just looking at the pic of the coin on the scale. It has been identified as a more modern clad statehood quarter (cupro-nickel clad quarter with a copper core), with other pics clearly show a copper core that I just quickly skipped past without really looking at them.

My understanding is that coins struck on wrong planchets, except for maybe one-offs or mint mischief, are usually limited to very distinct situations. First, where the composition of a coin is changed in a particular year and then either by mistake or intentionally the old planchets are used at the beginning of the following year, referred to as "transitional off-metal errors". A classic example of this is the 1943 Lincoln wheat cent struck on a copper planchet, likely left over from 1942. There have also been situations where the composition of a coin is proposed to be changed in a particular year and present year coins are struck on the following years planchets which were produced early (e.g. Anthony dollar coins struck on Sacagawea dollar planchets). Another possibility is where the incorrect stock coil of metal, with a similar appearance, is mistakenly used to produce blanks for a particular coin, or where similarly sized planchets, with a different composition, are used to strike coins such as Sacagawea dollar coins being struck on Anthony planchets. https://www.error-ref.com/?s=wrong+planchet For the op's 1948 Lincoln wheat cent it should have been struck on a 95% copper bronze (trace tin) planchet with a mint spec weight of 3.11g and tolerance of 0.13g. This planchet was used since 1947 thru 1962 when it was changed to 95% copper brass (no tin), with shell casing brass for the 2 years prior to 1947. So it seems very unlikely that a coin in the middle of a given span of years for a particular planchet composition, and with no other similarly sized planchets or similarly colored coils, would be struck on the wrong planchet. And of course, there is the possibility of the coin being struck on a planchet intended for a foreign con, but that also seems very unlikely.

The original blank may have been a little thin, further reducing the weight but still remaining within mint spec tolerances when it was struck. Also, I think it very unlikely that the cent would have been struck on a wrong planchet as there would not have been any other coils of metal (used for making the blanks) or planchets at the mint with a similar color for US coins which could have been mistakenly used. Unless the mint happen to have similar color coils or cent sized planchets used for the striking of foreign coins as Sandon noted, but I cant think of any.

Put the scope away, unless you are doing something like matching die markers to attribute a variety or authenticate a coin.

For the "D" mint mark you are asking about there may have been some worn die doubling or minor shelf doubling. But that would not be an error as it's considered a usual occurrence that is a normal part of the coin production. And there is nothing evident that would indicated an overmark even if the mark was not part of the master die.

They don't use high magnification for grading. I think it's 5x. And are you sure it's not just a small spot or flake on the plastic holder, which happens.

I agree with Sandon that it's a counterfeit. Not only is there a classic detail loss only in certain areas (e.g. eagles wing and One Cent), but the date is all wrong. Look at the 8 in particular, which is misshapen and smaller than the 1.

A BU or Brilliant Uncirculated adjectival grade by NGC simply means it would grade anywhere from MS60 to MS70, and likely MS60 to MS62. There is also Choice Uncirculated (MS63 to MS64) and Gem Uncirculated (MS65 to MS70). https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-grading/grading-scale/adjectival-grades/ That BU adjectival grade means its an unimpaired mint state coin, and not a "no details" or "details" coin with impairments. They are typically from bulk submissions where a discount is provided if just the BU grade is assigned, instead of taking the time to assign a specific numeric grade, for coins below a specified MS number (say MS65) as designated by the submitter.

That would explain the color being so wrong.

They may even have AT as there is no good color progression and only blotchy color changes. I also don't see any "pull away" of the toning except at a very limited number of stars, another AT indication. @Coinbufhas a better eye than me for things like this.

@powermad5000I don't have a registry set either, but I use what NGC lists as circulated coins as a guide for my collection, which has 105 coins. I buy almost all raw coins, but if desired when I was done I could submit all the coins for grading and enter a complete set in the registry. See the following link for the NGC Circulation Issue Morgan Dollars, and click on "See eligible coins" up near the top just below the set description to see each coin included. I have about a dozen of the more expensive coins in the set to finish, which I am just being patient with to get at a reasonable price. https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive/united-states/dollars/54/ Sorry to get a little off topic, so back to the op's subject. It sounds like you got very lucky with the roll of Morgans and the seller made a mistake. Usually the seller puts two nice enders which might indicate a valuable coin in the roll with the enders date and mark, but that's not the case, and then they put all average commons worth about $30 to $40 each in between in an older style brown wax paper like roll, which is "unsearched" (yea, right). So you end up paying considerably more than the coins in the roll are worth. About buying coins on eBay, I wouldn't completely avoid that site as you can learn a lot trying to grade and evaluate raw coins you see for sale, and just stick with buying slabbed coins until you get good with evaluating raw coins. First go to the following topic about Resources, and at least get the Red Book and ANA Grading standards as a start: Link: Resources Read through the introductions and then sections on Morgans in the Red Book and the ANA reference. Then look up slabbed Morgans on eBay, or sites like Great Collections, trying not to see the grade, and grade them yourself after which you can check the grade on the label. You can also go to the PCG$ webpage which has a bunch of graded Morgans that are specific to each year and mark to compare to the slabbed coin (and then later raw coins). Once you select a year and mark, click "View More Images" in blue below the large coin at the top, which takes you to a whole list of pics for graded Morgans for that specific year and mark. Link: PCGS Morgan CoinFacts After a while you should start to get the hang of accurately grading the coins yourself. I think the most difficult ones are the mint state (MS) coins. When I was doing this I just put the MS coins into 3 categories following the NGC adjectival grading for mint state coins including BU (MS60 to MS62), Choice BU (MS63 to MS64), and Gem BU (MS65 to MS70), which I think is close enough just starting out. Then you can start looking at raw coins for sale on eBay, coming up with your own grade for those coins so you can make more reasonable offers or bids on coins. Note that while you are evaluating the coins also try to attribute the coin with a specific VAM number as indicated above, but sometimes you will need to have the coin in-hand to look at that level of detail. Good luck and happy Morgan hunting!