Woods020

Are these as pale grey in person or is it a white balance issue with the photos. They may have seen a good dip before you got them. But it’s hard to tell from the photos alone. As Coinbuf also said if you can get a really sharp pic of the reverse that fills the screen we can probably check something for you. Just to be safe before you send them in. The 21-D is for sure cleaned. I don’t see mechanical cleaning signs in the other two, but I think they have been over dipped.

Good point. I didn’t think about that. What is the cutoff at NGC? I actually don’t know. Is it $300 like PCGS?

They are almost as bad as proof sets and modern commems on the buy/sell spread. Almost

I think expert is a high bar. I’m far from an expert, and honestly may never be what I consider an expert. I don’t do this all day every day. However I think all collectors owe it to themselves to get a basic form of education. At a minimum be able to within reason grade a coin in segments like 63-65, know if a coin is cleaned, and the tell tale signs of a counterfeit. Additionally learning strength of strike, the basic minting process/errors, and AT are pretty important. Fake errors and AT are rampant these days. I’m not saying you need to have a PHD in numismatics, which I believe actually exists, but no one should spend a large sum of their hard earned money without knowing the basics of what they are buying. I will also acknowledge sadly this is not reality. Therefore I do not believe TPGs have anything to worry about.

Not to my knowledge. PCGS has added the NFC chip to their slabs to combat counterfeiting, but that’s as tech as it gets that I know of. But your smart phone can scan that chip. Just not track where it’s going haha

That’s a heck of a find raw. Looks full bands as well. NGC attributes this variety for no additional fee. So just choose the tier based on how soon you want it back. Express is obviously quickest and economy is slowest. as a side note the only thing that bothers me is the dark spots. This is one I might consider restoration on. Most merc collectors like them blast white, and dark spots turn off most collectors. Not knocking your coin in any way and it actually is good to see you haven’t screwed with it. But sometimes this is how we find them.

It would make me a lot of money 😂 $10 for a 3 second glance to say get that road rash coin out of here.

Maybe it’s because my livelihood doesn’t depend on it, but I would like to believe I would never do this to someone. Sure I may miss grade a raw coin here or there by a grade accidentally, but so many of these guys blatantly lie knowing the truth it sickens me. The more I learn the more I realize how dirty the coin business is. But the good news is that having a basic understanding is plenty of defense. These dealers don’t know much if any, so a basic knowledge base puts you ahead of most of their games. Heck I rarely even sell raw coins because I rarely see nice, problem free raw coins any more. I get them here and there, but I’m hyper critical of them if I buy them. That and most people want to argue it down to nothing. Most of the raw coins are problem coins I see. Exceptions are of course present say nice Washington silver quarters or other newer issues. But it always cracks me up to look at say bust halves raw at shows.

As I am venturing into dealing it has opened my eyes to so many things. Some good, some bad. I wanted to learn and I sure am. One thing I have come to learn is I wouldn’t trust 75% of the dealers at coin shows. Some are the salt of the earth, but most are crooks. For example this past weekend I was at a show and I sold another dealer several common date Morgans that were details. Cleaned, stained, etc. I treat them as bullion and sell for the silver. I happened to ask this dealer why he wanted them. He said he would crack them out, put them in 2x2s, and “let buyers decide for themselves if it has an issue or not”. Basically he will sell them as raw straight grade coins knowing they are details. If I had known that before he bought them I wouldn’t have sold them to him. I can’t and won’t do that to someone, but so many of these dealers will do whatever it takes to make a buck. As long as that exists collectors either have to have a TPG or learn what they are doing. As a side note I have a 12 year old a raw JFK clad proof he needed for his album. It was only a $5 coin on a good day, but to him it was amazing. He and his grandfather stuck around for a while and I started asking him about coins, and telling him the backstory to some of what I had in my case. For example the no cents nickel and why it had to be changed. I told him knowledge was power in every circumstance, but that is especially true in numismatics. So the condition of me giving him that coin for his album was that he would read and study so that he can carry on as a knowledgeable collector. That’s what we need.

I don’t think they are going anywhere. As rampant as forgeries are, crooked sellers, and new collectors only wanting a passive knowledge of numismatics it’s almost a necessity. You see here in the newbie section the lack of knowledge. And I’m not knocking anyone that was me not that long ago. The difference is most new collectors won’t put the effort in to learn even enough to be able to collect, and the little learning they want to do is from YouTube or marked money or some other total BS. If the standard collector was more informed, and dealers/sellers were held to a standard of honesty & transparency, then TPGs would be in trouble. However as it stands they are the voice of reason and the oversight authority of junk vs valuable. I wish I could have a pre-grading company 😂. When I see half of the people think they see or that they say they sent for grading I will bust their bubble for $10. That’s a steal. Tell them it isn’t worth going any further.

Perhaps. I’m looking for inventory mainly. But Washington quarters and wheaties are of interest.

I am selling faster than I can replace with any quality, so if you have coins for sale let me know. I try and offer very fair prices, usually above the larger dealers. I only focus on US coinage, and predominately in older (not modern) coins in higher grades. If you have something let me know before you send to auction or go to a dealer.

Unless silver goes up significantly it’s rough to break even if you sell ASEs. After you pay a premium then sell without the premium you will do well to recoup. That goes for raw bullion to slabbed commons. A few exceptions here and there for 70s or scarcer coins like the 2020 v75 or the key date coins.

It could very well have been nickel plated. A lot of car guys and restoration people commonly use nickel plating. Wouldn’t be hard to image them either texting on a cent or just being bored and threw one in. as others have said there would not be a reason to counterfeit this year. Not that I think counterfeiters are intelligent people, but they usually go to the other extreme and knock off rarities. I’m not aware of any experimental work being done at this time at the mint, but someone else can confirm. That would only leave the possibility of a wrong planchet. Not sure what the mint would be producing at the time but for it to be nickel as you claim it would have had to be a foreign coin I am not aware of that would be the right planchet size and thickness but made of nickel. Long story short chances are astronomically higher it’s a simple explanation like it was nickel plated.

I was at a show today and saw one dealer who had about 10 PCI graded Morgans. Every single one was vividly toned. Some just rim toning, some full coin. None of them looked natural. Those slabs are ruining those coins. I see why I heard from someone recently that they sent two to PCGS and they came back AT.

how nice do you want the carvers? I know where some 67s are. Atleast a couple of them.

I’m sure he finally got banned. He pushed too far finally.

I can see why. She is a looker. Also she may be fueling some of your die state curiosity. That’s a neat die break.

Love those rattlers. Some people are crazy about them.

Yes. One example is the doubled dies we get asked about all the time. A doubled die is a die variety. Now within that die variety you will see different characteristics appear or disappear as the die is used. It may develop die cracks, breaks, and even terminal state defects such as starburst for example. You will see flow lines develop and notice small changes as it is used. So the doubled die is a variety, then the die goes through states of decomposition essentially from new to time to replace. This is oversimplified but hopefully answers your basic question.

Save up for it. I keep an eye out for a good used one at a decent price. Been looking a while now….

Well said. And we are all coin snobs if truth be told. And that’s ok. That’s how I want to collect and I will. No one will change that. But we sometimes forget collecting comes in many shapes and sizes. People can enjoy the hobby and never spend a dime on numismatic premiums if they want. They can fill coin boards/books and have a blast. In fact I have tried, with very little success honestly, to change the narrative with the error crazed crowd. I tell them to hunt pocket change or rolls for the best coin they can find. Those are the ones that might increase in value. Look for MS dimes that are well struck, few blemishes and full bands for example. Create an album of the very best you can find. And when you can upgrade do it. It teaches them to focus on quality, but also learn the basics of how to evaluate quality.

I love that you now own the coin that got you hooked! That’s one I would hope you never sell.

Which ones are you looking for? I’ve seen a ton of comems recently. Glad to help you find them.

It’s just another way to market the coins. And the dealers love hyping them as well. Personally I don’t want anyone’s signature on my slabs, and not really a fan of provenance unless it’s one of a handful of noteworthy numismatists.